|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Closed Campground Boulders|
|V3|| ★ Super Deluxe
The straight up problem off the slot and edge.
|V4|| ★★ Ultra Deluxe
Same start as previous problem but head right through the twin pockets then up through twin edges and top out.
|V3|| ★ Boundary
Sit start 3m left of 'No Sex After Mushrooms'. Up to double pocket and beyond.
|V4|| ★★ Ross's Problem
Sit start with the a left edge and right hand pocket and head straight through the roof via a slopey rail followed by a big move to a deep pocket. Make another big move to the good edge on the lip, then directly up for the jugs.
|V4|| ★★ Minus
A variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts just left of 'Butthole Surfer', then heads directly out through the roof in the direction of the No Sex With Mushrooms boulder.
|V3|| ★ Disconnected
Sit start at lip on LHS of cave and up left side on good holds
|V4|| ★ Raumschiff Enterpriess
This problem is located on a seperate boulder behind the Da Lai Lahmung area. It takes the major line from a sit start then through the roof.
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground The Guardhouse|
|23||★★ Line Of Sight
BOLTS ON THIS ROUTE ARE DANGEROUS with stress cracking that is hard to see. Stay off until replaced. Possibly the best route at the Guardhouse. Wave to the scout hoards at Staplyton Campground as you pull to glory through the ceiling. Located on left side of wall. Reachy orange goodness to start to reach prominent roof cave. Over roof and up right side of subtle arête to final juggy wall. 5 UBs and double UB lower-off.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2006
|23||★★ Miss Communication
Short punchy number. The 4th bolted route from the left with the white stained scoop in the middle. Up slopers to roof heuco. Over this on incuts then one final tough move to jugs. Chain anchor. 4 RBs.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2007
|23||★★ Little George
Named after George the baby gecko, that hitched a ride on a backpack all the way to Brunswick... causing havoc at Jac's place for two weeks before being returned to the Grampians! Follows left-trending line of four ringbolts in centre of crag just right of big scoopy hueco in rooflet. Stroll through delicate start just left of first bolt, locate the secret hold, and march your way to glory over steep juggy terrain. Double RB lower off.
FA: Jacqui Middleton & Neil Monteith, 2003
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Sentinel Cave|
|23||★★ Media Puzzle
Good pumpy workout on nice orange rock. Starts at left end of cave at small well chalked rooflet. Stick-clip first bolt. Out left across crux roof past two RB's then up scoops on jugs (2 RB's) to good rest. Step right and thug through steep territory past final RB to jugs and DRB lower-off.
FA: Neil Monteith, Joe Morgan-Payler & Jacqui Middleton, 2003
|23||★★ Media Puzzle Extension
An excellent bonus finish to 'Media Puzzle'. From double ringbolts monkey upside down on jugs out right along the horizontal break for 4m past 2 extra FH's then up to chains (crux).
November 2016 - first FH on extension is loose!
FA: Peter Daish & Damian Hall, 2003
|23||★ Far Lap
A long scary trad traverse from the fourth bolt on 'Media Puzzle' across to the first bolt in the roof on 'Antics'. The middle of the traverse is very un-protected, with ground fall potential very likely.
FA: Gareth Llewelin, Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2005
|23||★★ Stepping on Snakes
Classic steep thugging. Mantle onto slab then up very steep horizontals to final roof dyno. Five RB's and double RB lower off. Watch your back when lowering off.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2002
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Titanic Boulder|
SS with pockets on right side of small but deep cave. Technically up and left via seam and pockets in face to top out .
Sit start with pockets on the right hand side of the low but deep cave. Move up to holds in the seam and left to pockets around the bulge and finish p the face.
|V3||★ Warm up left
SS with letterbox jug past small edge in roof to the lip. Mantle.
|V4||★★ Knob Jockey
SS on slope edges under nose. Back through roof via slot and knob pinch to top out.
|North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Rust Bucket|
|23||★ The African Queen
|North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Unnamed Cliff|
Direct, sustained and well protected.
Start: Start 5m L of arete
FA: Will Monks, Joe Goding & James Pfrunder, 2004
Start: Start at TPCK of TCA. Up 2m then up and Right on good pockets, to horizontal break (FH). Right to join "Energise your soul"
FA: Mark Rewi & others
FA: Mark Rewi, Josef Goding & Damien Heath, 2004
|North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Olive Cave|
|23||★ To Bee a Monkey
A very steep link-up of 'Bees Knees' and 'Spunky Monkey'. Up 'Bees Knees' to the diving board, place some optional medium cams then traverse right into the super exposed finish of 'Spunky Monkey'. Route needs to be back-cleaned or 2nded.
FA: Catherine De Vaus, 2008
|North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Ravine|
The overhung bolted arete just right of a deep chimney where the track first meets the cliff. UPDATE: Second last bolt is loose.
FA: Muki Woods, 2008
|23||★★ Pain Criminals Link-up
Makes Portland Criminal doable for the average man - and gives good sustained climbing. Up 'Pains Ford' to third ring bolt, then traverse right (FH) across horizontal break and large pocket into Portland Criminal and up this to top.
FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2008
|North Grampians Mount Zero Pangaea Walls|
|23||★★ First Love
Kachoong on roids! 50m uphill from Sport Crack is a wall capped by large roofs. This route climbs right edge of wall then swings left across massive roof flake and straight through the guts of the overhang above. 7 RBs.
FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 18 Nov 2012
|North Grampians Flat Rock West Flank|
Starts up the amazingly pocketed wall then moves delicately left through scoop to small flake. Trend diagonally left to anchors.
FA: anthony pattison & carole lunny, 27 Aug 2016
|23||★ The Enola Gay (Link-up)
For those that like their bombs dropped in a straight line we have The Enola Gay .The result being a nuclear wasteland. Starts up Uranium-234 till the 4th bolt then step slightly right to join in on the 5th bolt of nuclear wasteland. Continue up to the anchors of nuclear wasteland.
FA: anthony pattison & carole lunny, 28 Aug 2016
|23||★★ Melting Moments
Delicately up orange wall to first overhang. Bouldery moves over overhang, up and R to second overhang. Brushed wall to top. Retro bolted with permission from the FA.
Start: Start 7m R of 'Yellow Cake'.
FA: Shepherd & Fearnley, 1986
|23||★★ Unraveling Fukishima
A bit weird with a couple of tricky moves, especially if you're short. Starts 5m left of the landmark flake of Cooking in Chernobyl. After mantling past the second bolt, move left up flake then super reachy traverse right to cross Cooking in Chernobyl. Finish up pumpy headwall. 7 RBs + fixed sling.
FA: Neil Monteith, 19 Nov 2012
|North Grampians Flat Rock Bellerophon Wall|
|23||★ Optimal Arousal
Steep. Boring adjective but exciting climbing.
Start: Start below overhanging wall a few m R of 'The Short Orange Corner'.
FA: Peter Martin & Ed Neve, 1987
|V3||★★ Sure Fire
|North Grampians Flat Rock Epsilon Wall|
|23 X||New Imperative
It's imperative that you don't fall (E5, 6a?)! Still, the ethic of this route is vastly superior to the partly bolted contrived boldness of Death on a Stick or 'Diazepam' (until it got retroed).
Start: Start 5m R of 'Epsilon Plus'.
FA: Jarod McCulloch, Peter Martin & Richard Bugg, 1989
|23||Ordinary Bolted Arete
Big shiny ringbolts up short arete left of 'Crossfire'. Only has about 4m of truly indepedent climbing.
FA: Christoph & Simon Wheeler, 2003
|23||★ Walking and Falling
Lots of interest in this climb. A long bouldering traverse just off the ground leads to a cruxy move guarding great climbing up an orange streak. It is possible to place small cams on the traversing start but they're more trouble than they're worth as you're so close to the ground - just stick clip the first bolt if you're concerned.
Start: Start about 8 metres right of the Let X=X corner and just left of the boulder on the right side of the wall.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 2007
|23||★ Skippity Do Dah
Sherpa Tim leads the geriartrics to glory up this short but intense number.
FA: Tim Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 2009
|North Grampians Flat Rock Epsilon Wall Bouldering|
|V3||★ Curtain Call
Start: Original problem on the lefthand side of the wall, starting with a sit-start.
'The Show Must Go On' is a harder version coming in from the bottom right.
From horizontal, up and right to sharp pocket then up to break.
|V4||★ Down Under
Very low sit-start then traverse left - then back right to finish on the good jug. The direct straight up from the pockets (dyno) is V4/5.
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Daves' Cave|
Sit start to right hand line through roof joining PO.
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall|
The definitive word on ethics? Wall 4m R of Zola. Originally done in 2 pitches but pitch 2 is worthless and it is now a 1 pitch sport route.
Start: Start 4m down L of 'Starstruck'.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1991
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Central Buttress|
A beautiful thin line leads to a large roof at the top of the cliff. You have to be good at placing RPs and other small wires, although the advent of microcams is a boon for this route. Take a rack up to #3½ cam, add 2 sets of RPs and plenty of microcams, a couple of extra middle-size cams for belays, thin sling and many quickdraws. A bolt was placed on the first pitch around 1996 because the original starting stump disintegrated.
Start: Start by scrambling up 'Technical Ecstasy' for 15m to a terrace on the L where the real climbing starts.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman March-April. Dave Vass made the first lead of pitch 1, before any fixed gear existed. 1st continuous ascent Steve Monks & Louise Shepherd 1989., 1988
|75m, 3, 2|
|23||★★★ Technical Ecstasy Direct
Might get bumped up a grade once the third ascentionist gets back from cleaning his undies to give us his thoughts. The 18m of new climbing is only 2-4m L of the original second pitch, and can be escaped at a few spots. Otherwise, this version of the second pitch is every bit as good as the magnificent second pitch of 'Missing'. Start: Start as for TE. 1) (25m 18) Do a short version of pitch 1 of TE, belaying above the great initial vertical crack, 5m below the fat flakes. 2) (35m 23) Blast up the classy seam 2m L of the fat flakes, eventually rejoining the original second pitch for it's wild final cracks. Needs a full rack including a #8 hex, plus extra draws & multiples of micro-cams and micro-wires (and a good ability to place them!). Can be very well protected but gear is quite tricky in 1 or 2 spots. The direttissima finish to this pitch, through the bulge onto the top slab, was also done at bold 19 (and is shown in the ACA topo) but the original finish is better. 3) (15m 18) As per the original.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Will Monks (both lead crux & after TR rehearsal), 2009
Very reachy, add two grades if you're less than 190cm tall. The original climb bashed its way up to gain the line R of 'Mania' and followed this line until 24m below the top then aided the final pitch.
Start: The advisable approach is to abseil from the top of 'Mania' into the gully R of 'Mania' and do the final pitch.
FA: Andrew Thomson, Adrian Davey 19.8.70. FA Simon Mentz, Kieran Loughran & Louise Shepherd., 1991
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Ground Control Caves Top Cave|
Sit-start on the down-sloping jug and reach out right to gain the upper rampline. Topout if you're game enough.
Sit-start in the LH corner and climb out to the good left-trending rampline to finish as for 'Smog'.
A V3 that looks like a V5... Sit-start on the rightside of the big hollow scoop and climb up to the big sloper. Topout leftwards via a better hold.
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Simon Says Boulder|
|V4||★ Some Days You Score
|V3||★ Some Days You're a Whore
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Wiggly Boulder|
|V3||★★ Wiggly Boy
Location: The Wiggly Boulder.
Sit-start right of 'Shattering Dreams' matching a big undercling. Slap to the small edge, then mantle to finish. Harder than a lot of other 3's in the area.
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Amazing Boulder|
|V4||★ The Animator
|V3||★★ Paranoiac Critical Town
|V3||★★ Hard Right
|V3||★★ Premium Port
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Website Boulder|
|V3||★ The Masturgator
|V3||★★★ Surfing Without a Mouse
Climb the centre of the highball slab up to the undercling pocket and hidden jugs at the top.
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Colossus Boulder|
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Love Boulder|
|V3||★★ Love Lies Bleeding
Sit start on the low break 2m right of "Sexy Direct". Slap up to the sloper and out to a jug. Traverse up and left on good holds to finish up "Sexy as a Turd".
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Tiger Boulder|
|V4||Future Wolf And The Gay Parisian Milk Incident
Project no. 43
FA: Tom O'Halloran, 20 Jun 2013
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Upper Boulder|
|V3||★★ Uppercut V3
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Upper Cave Wall|
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Paul's Boulder|
|V4||★★ Right El Westwood
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Peregrinator Boulder|
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall|
|23 M1||★★ Dance of Life Clean Sweep Connection
Some link-ups are hardly worth recording, but this one is notable because it avoids the cruxy moves of each route, leaving amazing sustained climbing around grade 22 with bomber pro the whole way. In fact, you'd be hard pressed to find a better 23 in the Grampians.
Follow Dance of Life to the horizontal break 10m below the top, step L 3m, and finish up the lovely well protected blunt arete of Clean Sweep. Needs double ropes to do it in a single (ultraclassic) pitch. Has also been done by going further L along the break to Dinosaurs Don't Dyno.
FA: Will Monks, James Pfrunder & Kevin Lindorff, 2004
|23||★★ The Seventh Banana Pitch 1
|23 R||★★★ The Seventh Pillar Left Hand Variant
A heady megaclassic ... but also a brilliant consumer-friendly 22 if you lower off the bolts at the top of the flake (25m). Start as for The Seventh Pillar. Follow R-tending line of weakness for 18m to the major roof-capped horizontal break. Swing L into the rounded flake crack and up it. Bolts at the top protect the crux, which is followed by 8m rightwards runout to the horizontal (gear). Traverse 10m further right along this to rap rings (22m rap, can just barely lower off with a 60m rope). Extend all gear before the bolts, otherwise the flake is a real rope eater and rope drag will be hideous.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Col Reece & Eddy Ozols, 1980
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Spurt Wall|
|23||Kaa Pitch 1
The old 15mm long (!!) bolt was replaced 2011.
Start: Start at the R end of the 'Spurt Wall' bouldering traverse, at the obvious juggy chalked L leading flake.
FA: Steve Monks
|23||★ Lord of the Jerks
Easy tick - more like a bolted boulder problem.
FA: Simon Ozolins, 1994
|23||★ Pussy Galore
Hard start then reachy moves on pockets. The bolts are all in the wrong places. 3 FHs.
FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994
|23||I'd Rather Be Wanking
Sandy rubbish at the far right end of the crag. It has a few ok moves but the aesthetic value is very low.
FA: Simon Ozolins, 1994
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Afterglow Boulders|
|V4||★ Bossanova Left
|V4||★ Fading Lite
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Between the Sheeps|
Left most problem. Sit start and move up to the good edge in the break, then gaston and undercling your way out the lip to an interesting mantle. Classic.
|V4||★★ Carpet Crawler
Start as for 'Railroad' then finish as for 'Cinema Show'.
|V4||★ Slot Machine
Sit start with the good slots just right of 'Railroad' and make a big move (crux) up to the good holds in the roof. Finish as for the mantle on 'Railroad'. Punchy!
|V4||★★ Railway Machine
Start as for 'Slot Machine' and traverse right into 'Cinema Show'. Finish up this.
|V3||★ Cinema Show
An independant and direct line right of 'Slot Machine'.
The line left of 'Kamikaze'. Could be the flakeline ending nowhere in particular.
|V4||★★ To Catch a Thief
A variation of the previous problem, but better. Starting off the sloper above the shelf (right of previous problem), make a move left to the good pocket, then cross to the prominent 2-finger pocket and span out left into 'I Must Have Been the Thief'. Finish as for this.
|V3||★ I must have been the thief
Awkward sit start off the raised platform from two good large pockets, then up directly via more pockets (clue - gaston) to lip jug.
Line just right of 'Anal Head'.
|V4||★★ Chas Remains
Dangerous. Probably even more committing than 'Kamikaze'. Start off the shelf and reach up for a prominent 'spike' jug, then climb directly out to the deep 3-finger pocket. Turn 90 degrees and place your feet on the holds of the next problem, and make a most worrying couple of moves for the big 'flake' jug out on the lip. 15 spotters and a blow up bouncy castle useful...or just pre-order the ambulance.
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Wildsides|
Furthest most problem right of Nelly. Potential for more problems exist in the same area.
Broken looking holds right of 'Click'. Very low sit-start.
|V3||★ Sandy Candy
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre The Snake Pit|
|V4||★★★ Volume 1000
Highball (6 metres) slightly overhung face route. Crux is the first move (big) but a tricky finish awaits. V4 from a sit-start.
|V4||★★ The Farmer Traverse
A very long traverse starting from the big flake then motoring right along the horizontal weakness - finishing up 'John Deere'
Sit start on the same holds as Caterpillar. Move left to a crimp and an edge before making a big move to the break.
Sit-start on the low flake and small arete hold - then up via a 'triangle' pinch hold to the big break. Originally given V4.
|V4||★★ Air traverse
Starts as for 'Karl' - but keeps traversing right - to a big move for a lone crimp up and right - then the top. Beware of the thin lip holds!
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre The Plaza Strip|
|23||★★ Bass Rush
Steep start up wall with big moves leads to thin face. 4 ringbolts and double RB anchor.
FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2000
Sustained techy thin climbing up orange wall on perfect rock. Five RB's. Rap off ring and chain.
FA: Neil Monteith, Andy Hein & Nick McKinnon, 2000
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Citadel|
Starts on the RH face (sit) - left of the 'Sausage' crack weakness.
Sit-start on large flat jug under the roof (same start as for Strammamax) - then head left around onto the face - and up crack weakness.
|V3||★★ Keinen Plan
Good looking sit-start problem near the RH arete leading up to an obvious jug.
|V4||★★★ Cock Toe
|North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Windjammer Wall|
|23||★ Roaring Forties
Hard crux. Bridge up using a convenient tree about 12m right of Talk Of Mad Women and onto the wall. Hand traverse right to avoid all of the big loose blocks sitting on the ledge and up to FH. Hard crux past FH then more easily straight up juggy wall past another FH to belay at double FHs above 'Spice Islands'. Walk off right to rap anchors above 'Lord Jim' to descend.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1995
|23 R||★★ Spice Islands
Keeps your interest.Hard start and exciting, pumpy moves on the bulge. Start in centre of wall, about 10m right of 'Roaring Forties'. Pull off boulder onto wall, FH, and crank hard to reach break. Left a fraction at 2nd FH then back right and up to mailbox slot (vital large wire). Motor up and left on the headwall, hoping that the hidden 3rd FH will be staring you in the face when you peer over the top of it. Pull up and continue with a big runout to double bolt anchors. Walk right to chains above 'Lord Jim' to descend.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 1994