Routes with min 2 stars as sport in Grampians for selected grade

An extension to Groovy, this was briefly the hardest route on the wall and may be the best. Climb it in 1 pitch from the ground. The sheer face above the finish of the Groovy groove is sparsely bolted (despite a dubious retrobolt by Dave Graham ... which lasted about 5 seconds after he left) up the black streak to a lower off. Can seep. Equipped by Zac Vertrees and Mike Law (with the top lower-off added by Jake Bresnehan), this was attempted by a who's who of Australian hard-men over 7 years before Ben's success.

Ben Cossey FA of Groove Train https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-PsXKda6JU

Start just left of SC. Amazing wall climb.

A link up. From the anchors of Snake Flake, traverse left into the top half of Groove Train via one bolt.

Start up Middle Path, where Middle Path joins Path of Yin continue traversing right into steepness. Do the big dyno and then traverse further right into Eye of the Tiger and finish as per it's anchors.

Crikey it's good. Which is better Path Of Yin or Eye Of The Tiger? Truly superb rock architecture, with fair dinkum good moves. Was a lot harder but then some creative thinking enabled the roof passage to be climbed with out too much strength, which produced an enormous increase in it's popularity! Incredibly steep, at least 15m overhung.

Start: Start at the back of the cave beneath the huge "eye" in the roof.

Sustained thin face climbing on immaculate rock.

**6th bolt tightened with wrench 24/11/2018 - keep an eye on it though.

Start: About 3m right of Blimp are some tiny holds beside 2 RB’s.

1. 26m (28) Originally led as one mega pitch but perhaps better now as 2? Up thin face past many FH past some unusual features, R to corner (HDBB)

2. 20m (26) Thin wall (PR) then L to cracked overhang. Past this to hanging corner (2 BR) to finish past old PR on right.

Takes one of Taipan's best scoop lines and is ultra classic in it's own right. Start 10m up L from the base of Invisible Fist. This scramble/traverse is 10m off the ground and trickier than it looks.

1. 25m (28) Groovy. Follow the disconcertingly holdless groove, deviating left around a blank bit at 15m via some crux cranks. Exciting finish well above bolt to rap anchor (30m to ground). Can feel very hard for 28 until you work it out.

Sustained slopy masterpiece that some reckon is the best thing on Spurt. It climbs a blazingly direct line of pockets and crimps. Typical Julian bullshit runouts to sketchy clips with the technical crux several metres above a bolt. 6 bolts.

The line of the crag. Long steep pumper straight through the guts of the wall. To descend either; back-clean, lower off 'Nicotine' bolts (careful traversing over), or top out and untie (and leave your draws there for the next punter).

Crazy jump to start or 26 if you batman to first jug. Awesome either way.

Almost completely superseded by Sneaky Snake, especially until the start bulge gets freed. But still worth recording, for those who can't climb 33! Start 8m R of Naja. Stick clip and batman 5m to first bolt to bypass the blank bulge, then follow the awe-inspiring water grooves in the incredible steep sheer wall. Finish at the half-height DRB. 70m rope recommended. The low bulge has reportedly almost been freed, but will be MUCH harder - open project. In April 2013 Quentin Chastagnier tried a variant start about 5m to the left, on trad, which included a sideways downwards jump from a break to a hold on the lip!

Avoid the big dyno by starting on the cairn down low. Stick clip first bolt then boulder up the unlikely steep corner and through roof to reach big jugs and join into original route. Burly.

One of the best in Oz. The only bad thing about this climb is that it was cruelly stolen from HB by a UK darkhorse. This should be on everyone's tick list. They simply don't get much better.

Start: Start 5m down R of 'Krankandangle'.

Daniel Ortega? Classic sustained line of pockets up a very steep wall. Six FH's and a fixed thread.

Start: Starts 3m left of 'Sandinista' at the pocketed crack. Stickclip first bolt and clean/dry holds before starting.

The original Vic Ranges hard route. Mega.

Start: Start 5m R of DR at major scoopy weakness. Power endurance classic past 6 bolts to anchor

Another excellent 15m variant to Serpentine. Follow Serpentine pitch 2 for 12m until halfway up the fridge hugging. Trend R and up past bolts to loweroffs (30m to 1st belay, 52m to ground). The loweroff is somewhat diagonal - be careful not to end up hanging in space.

The City of Peace - aka Nagasaki. 7 years in the making, fires, surgeries, viruses, broken bones, Covid and now it’s free. The spectacular route up the main turret in the middle of the big Orange cave.

Up on upper tier. Through water streak on beautiful orange face. Has chain on third bolt.

Links the best bits of 'The Tower' into one enduro mega pitch. Start as for Super Mario Direct and connect up to 'Inspector Gadget' Pitch 2 (now called Dr Claw) via undercling flake (2 shitty rusty FHs).

Obvious RH Line

Established after a tip-off from Jake the snake Bresnehan. "Named in honour of a great man, and possibly the best climb on the wall". Given 31 originally but has quickly been knocked down a grade. Start as for Mr J. Up most of Mr J p1 then, instead of going diagonally left past the last bolt to the cave, continue directly up. The crimpy orange wall has 4 more bolts and takes you about 4m R of Mr J p2, right to the top. A 70m rope can lower off the last bolt to the ledge - just! It's only a sport route if, like most grade 30 climbers, you skip the trad gear on Mr J.

Direct finish to malcolms project. Look for the anchor!

In cave underneath main prow. Walk 100m left from poison bait cave on scree. Outrageous line through guts of cave with a crazy crux.

The RH finish to 'Le Petit Mort'. Keep on truckin' up the steep headwall after doind most of LPM. Some people start up Chasin' the 'Shadow' instead, but they are silly.

Lunacy endurance traverse. Your forearms will explode.

Roof climbers rave about this one. Steep jugging to a few hard moves at the end. Unfortunately once again the bolt spacing warrants caution.

Start down the very back of the left end of the main cave.

7 bolts to rap anchor. There's almost groundfall potential at the 5th and 6th bolts, and also beware the block behind you at the last bolt.

This line breaches the steepest part of the main wall on perfect rock, with some amazing moves to get through the bulges. Start at the left of 2 cracks that head up the the lower part of the main wall. Blast up through some very steep bulges, with some great slopers for slapping.

Fantastic climbing on an outrageous feature. Batman to 4th bolt.

Steep and sustained. An early HB endurofest.

Start: Some way left of 'Manic Depressive' at the left end of the camping cave

aka The Dopeman 'Extension'. An excellent line across a prominent feature. A modern classic that was somehow overlooked in the first VD Land onslaught.

Start: Start on ledge at finish of 'The Dope Man'.

Tough rightwards heading line right of Flower Power. Slopy.

It's 3 o'clock..tick tock..

A hard bouldery start, then it's a pumpy fight up and L to the same chain as the previous routes.

Tricky climbing up an overhanging seam, with a good measure of dynos and technique required. Joins CNU for a few moves before finishing up arete, no. 1or 2 camalot required.

Link Krankandangle into Path of Yin via low bolt.

Very bouldery crux section involving a long series of painful pockets.

Start: Ringbolted route 3m right of 'Chinese Water Torture'. Establish in 2001, an ascent by German hardman Andy Hofman grade 8a - 8c as not sure on Aussie grades! Recent ascentionists suggest 32 after repeated attemps by some very strong climbers.

Start up the orange flake line on the right hand side of the cliff. The first pitch is tenuous and a little goey. The 2nd pitch goes directly up the beautiful black streak littered with small quartz dykes.

Busts left after bouldery start on Slam Dunk. Sustained!!

An old Martin Lama project that was cruelly stolen by a visiting Brit (and then named after Martin's flowing locks!).

Gordy's finest hour! He never made it to the top - he lowered from the fourth bolt and recorded it anyway, and now it's one of the most popular routes around at this grade.

Very hard single crux move. 'Campus' slopy rails. One of the best 'lines' at Spurt. Four FH's. Nick Sellars tried to rename this route after some obscure Baghdad Cafe cake. The name didn't stick.

Start as for 'The Gloaming'. At the second bolt head directly up past a RB sleazing your way past many slimpers to a thin seam 2RB. At top of seam head left, RB and up to hit the major break. At the break continue to head left and then up through the steeper rock passing the pocket of love and 3 more RB, to a double u bolt anchor.

Long admired - now climbed! The u-bolted flared shiny orange crack on the west face of the Northern Pinnacle about 5m right of 'Hamstrung'. Brutal fingerlocks to start then up short reachy corner. Campus right along slick break to final crimpy face finish. Sustained. 6 bolts and lower-off.

Climbs the inside of the tunnel feature just R of Nomads. It looks a bit obscure but is very good.

Start as for Nomads.

Up Nomads to its 1st bolt then a perplexing move right into the tunnel to the undercling rail. Tough clip of 3rd bolt (long draw helps), then tough steep moves into roof finish.

Underrated and sustained. Graded 27 for many years although Simon originally thought it was 28. Some people love it and some people hate it. Six u-bolts and an exciting runout at the finish. The last bolt was added ten years after the first ascent to stop a potential 14m fall!

Popular with the euros. Up the next line R to a big dyno. Finish off L in the cave. Upgraded due to broken hold

Rising techincal traverse and crimpy face out left from 'Fat Fingered Freak'. From FFFs 2nd bolt head hard left on shallow slots to big break. Shake, then crimp like a fiend to next big break. Finish up further thin stuff to lower-off. 4th bolt is hard to clip without extension.

Line of ringbolts starting 2m left of 'The Big Payback'. Finishes up 'On My Own'.

Start just right of 'Abandon Ship' and head directly up the line of bolts. Some bouldery cruxes down low with an easy top out. Grade is a suggestion and may go up or down. Rebolted 2017

In shade after 11am. Technical start past two RB. At 3rd bolt head up and left past juggy corner to horizontal break. Up juggy diagonal crack and then left towards powerful finish and DRB lower-off. Re-bolted 2018

Designed to be climbed as a quite scary sport route, but rumour has it there is the odd trad piece to sanitise it a little. No anchor...clean it how you wish! There is a piker's variant which goes at 27 by traversing a little higher than shown when you're about 15m into the traverse. Line 18a in the topo shows a grade 25 trad variant done by Matt Adams.

Start: Start on the boulder on the R edge of the huge cave, on the R side of the 2nd tier.

Two cruxy bouldery moves to start then eases considerably. Stuart Wyithe originally bolted this thinking it was only going to be grade 26!

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Naughty Tickle Town'.

A cool boulder problem off the deck. A very suspicious grade considering Malcolm Matheson, Adam Demmert and Neil Monteith played on this for several years without success. Suits tall climbers with strong fingers. Equipped by Neil in 2003.

Start: Start 10m right of Terror of the Sea.

Tough boulderery start of the cairn. Follow the dyke feature to anchor. Thin, technical and sustained.

One of the hardest routes in the Grampians. Sustained. Often mistakenly called Samosa, but the naming theme is Nicaraguan revolutionaries not pastries!

Extension of 'Tunnel to Caracas' .

Climb all of 'Tunnel to Caracas' then continue up the seam above to join into 'Fat and Sassy' just before it takes the left fork in the seam. Finish up the runout top section of 'Fat and Sassy' to the top of the cave.

Rebolted / made sane in 2017. This is a great line & deserves repeats!

Mega R to L traverse. Start in the back of the cave R of Pigs. Up through Pigs, cross GT at the 3rd bolt, pull the lip of Koala, move past MP and 'Nicotine', then finish as for LPM.

Obvious arapiles like face you see on the left when entering crag x. Key is to access from other side of creek via cairns. Climb up gully to reach base of route. Bridge initial blankness. Pumpy!

Excellent climbing on immaculate rock.

Start: 1m left of Gotham City. The subtle weakness on the steep orange wall between Batman and Robin and Gotham City.

Bloody hard finish which can be done two ways.

Start: Line of FH's up black seam just to the right of 'Amnesty International'.

One of the hardest routes in 'Victoria'. A sustained full frontal assault on the highest part of the cave.

Start: Start just R of DF.

The hardest climbing on 'Spurt Wall'. Splits after 3rd bolt of 'Tyranny' and finishes up 'Lifestyling'.

The awesome steep red wall above the ledge on PNtT. Start up that route (3 camalot and small cams and wires) to ledge. Build an anchor and extend to over lip of ledge for rope drag. (Double length sling). A small camalot (0.3/0.4) protects clipping the first bolt (placed high to not impact PNtT). Very pumpy, steep climbing on jugs leads to a powerful finale on immaculate rock. A 1 camalot can be placed between the last bolt and the double ring bolt lower off. A 60m rope can be used to climb in a pitch and lower to the ground.

The line out the middle of the big red cave. Three sections with increasing difficulties separated by good rests. Rock quality is second to none at the top. Glory jugging up final corner to double U bolt belay.

Starts as per PFOD then joins CL for a couple of bolts. Takes traverse line a few meters south of CL to same anchor

The visionary black streaks and water grooves about 5-8m R of Naja. The joke used to be that Steve Monks "marked his turf" at the top of Naja after every shot; it looks like perhaps Lee did too! Start as for Naja. Up Naja for 2 or 3 bolts then traverse right via an obvious undercling flake a few metres above the low roof. Use long (2m) extenders for this section. Now follow the incredible grooves, ignore the half-height anchor, and continue up via amazing sustained climbing on slopey edges to the top of the wall in one single mega pitch. Rap anchor (55m).

The scene of one of the biggest dummy spits in Australian climbing history. Cruelly stolen from Gordy by a roving Garth in his youthful prime. In a fit of vengeance Gordy promptly chipped off the vital holds, removed the bolts and covered the rest of the holds with sunscreen! Nathan Hoette managed to repeat it anyway. This is the extension of 'Tyranny' past a further two FHs to rap chain.

Super exposed upside-down roof-arête.

Amazing line. 2nd from right

Roof right of pitch 2 of 'A Space Odyssey'.

Varied climbing amongst orange scoops, over zestful bulges, and up a quality headwall.

Start off the ledge on the right side of the cliff (about 20m off the ground) where there are belay (FH) bolts.

Pleasant climbing up the orange scoops leads to some powerful moves through the first of two bulges. Stumble past a second higher bulge before finishing up the sustained headwall in a great position. For a grade 22 outing climb to the 7th bolt and traverse 4m right to a rap/belay station.

Follow the amazing Prow. 3rd bolted line from right.

Start 20m left of 'The Thin Red Line' near the left edge of Flame Wall. Dyno sideways to gain the hanging groove. Continue up the bulging face to a diabolical crux up high. Beware the pumpy finish.

Second Pitch to Mirage. Quentin approached from Seventh Pillar LHV via Snake in the Grass. More like 33 according to Alex Megos.

A shameless linkup but worthy none the less! Start up middle path and continue as per the flying duck. Do the crux dyno of the duck and then immediately head left into a rest before finishing at the path of yin anchors.

The only bolted line in this cave.

Classic Power Route.

A great line that was strangely one of the last routes added. Seems so obvious now.

Start: Start 5m L of 'Desert Rose'.

As for Sirocco pitch 2 past the first bolt (doing it's crux), then move L and up for 25m of new climbing between Seventh Banana and Sirocco to the top. You can also approach from Seventh Banana, by stepping R after doing the crux on p2.

As for Cl but keep going straight up via very reachy moves.

Start: Start as for CL.