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Bovine Cliff

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 10

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 8 months ago

Description

A compact cliff approx 200m long and 40m high with generally good rock and lines. It deserves to be more popular as a middle grade destination, altho' Roland Pauligk's typically very solid gradings may have scared some people off in the past. I have tried to adjust the grades on the routes I have I done to make them more reasonable. This is a good Spring and Autumn cliff as it faces North but is high enough not to get too hot. [Intro and descriptions entered by Philip Armstrong]

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from Grampians

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks. See http://m.parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/safety-and-regulations#overview

Approach

4.7km along the 'Mt William' Summit road from the Halls Gap-Dunkeld road is an old logging track on the L. Park here. Follow the now overgrown track taking LH branches where there is any option. The track swings L and heads West for about a km. There is an old log loading ramp around here and you need to head uphill from it about 250m to the cliff. It is actually easier to find the cliff than this description might lead you to believe. Descent is made easily by the gullies at either end.

© (willmonks)

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

About 30m R of the LH end of the cliff is an initialled crack through an overhang. Strenuous hauling gets you through this and up the line above.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Peter Canning, 1983

7m R of 'Torero', initailled. Slabby wall then corner.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Peter Canning, 1983

Looks very good and bloody hard for the grade. Could be worth more stars [and a higher grade] if anyone ever repeats it and comments on the quality and difficulty. Up wall 3m R of 'Ponderosa' to diagonal crack. Up crack to ledge. Step R and up wall over loose blocks. Up crack in summit block.

FA: Roland Pauligk, 1986

Initialled. Climb jagged crack 5m R of BB then up R veering flake.

FA: Peter Canning, Travis Canning & Scott Simpson, 1983

Nice crack route with nothing really shaky on it. Crack in black wall 17m R of 'Humpy' through overhangs to final wide steep crack [BD4 useful] which is more reasonable than it looks.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Peter Canning, 1983

Sustained and varied, really very good. Initalled crack 2m R of SF. Up crack to overhang then up shallow V corner in orange wall to overhang. Turn overhang on R then up wall and blocks.

FA: Roland Pauligk, Peter Canning & Ann Pauligk, 1983

Climb initialled corner 30m R of 'Puppet' then continue up crack. A bit dirty and fiddly to protect at the top.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Ann Pauligk, 1983

Initialled juggy wall 2m R of Hexe. Step R, move up, step back L then up crack.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Ann Pauligk, 1983

OK shorter route. Initialled corner in arete 10m R of HII to orange wall. Up wall and step L onto block. Pass overhang on L. Veer up R over large block to ledge. Abseil from tree.

FA: Peter Canning, James McIntosh & Martin Tatton, 1989

Up to R facing corner 1m R of WP. Step R and take crack though roof. Up

FA: James Falla & John [UK], 1989

Cracks 3m R of CTWN

FA: Simon Mentz, Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1989

Another short one. Initialled. Swing up R from 1m R of SMS, then up veering L to thin crack below roof. Up to juggy break then hand traverse R to ledge. Abseil from tree.

FA: James McIntosh & Martin Tatton, 1989

Good looking crack. Again it might be harder and better than indicated but no one seems to have repeated it. Initialled. Up crack 2m R of Moo to ledge. Up L hand diagonal crack then jugs.

FA: Roland Pauligk, 1986

Sustained, technical and varied. Good route. Care is needed with the rock as this buttress copped a blast in the 2006 bushfires. Initalled with a 'P' for some reason. Crack in orange wall 20m R of 'Pilgrim' II then arete, then veer R to committing moves up middle of buttress..

FA: Peter Canning, Ann Pauligk & Roland Pauligk, 1983

Unfortunately the bushfires have left the start [which was always a bit thin, loose and poorly protected] dangerously friable. Which is a pity as it is otherwise a very nice climb up a good line. Cairned and marked line 6m R of 'Flasher'. Up wall to shallow corner. Up V crack then R of arete and up twin cracks. Finish over blocks.

FA: Peter Canning & Roland Pauligk, 1983

The large chimney cleft about 30m L of the RH end of the cliff. This whole area is fire affected and unstable looking

FA: Travis Canning & Scott Simpson, 1983

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