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Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created about two years ago - Edited about a year ago

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Description

Gives some interesting slabby routes on the lower R edge of the Elephants Hide feature. This is the back slope of Mackey's peak. Only one of the climbs is really well enough protected to be popular. A few more bolts and the repositioning of some existing bolts could make the area more attractive. However, this is a very visible and popular tourist area so inconspicuous glued carrots would be the way to go.

© (armstp)

Access issues inherited from Halls Gap Area

A low profile always helps to avoid too much attention from tourists and park rangers.

"Please do not add any routes (old or new) to this database for the time being."

Approach

Take the track from Halls Gap to Venus Bath. Continue a further 300m up Stony Creek until you reach a smooth slab with some carrot bolts sticking out of it. For ease of identification routes are described R to L.

© (armstp)

Ethic inherited from Halls Gap Area

Bolting, is considered illicit, along with the rest of the park and other National Parks within Victoria. Only alter routes after considerable consultation with first ascensionests and local climbers.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

RH side of smooth slab. There are eight new fixed hangers, some trad gear can be used low down on the prominent (hollow) flake. Finish up slightly L to DBB. 40m abseil.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter, Stephen Hamilton & Josh Holko., 1991

Traverse right from 3rd bolt of Elephant's Slide, up slight ramp, up crack then up and left to finish at ES anchor

FA: Mike 'Piker' Patterson, 16 Apr 2014

Start above the pool 6m L of ES. Up centre of slab past 3 bolts. Would be more popular and come down a grade or two if a couple more bolts were added.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 1991

Has the right number of bolts, but they are not in the right places. I imagine this was bolted on lead. With a bit of a clean and bolt rationalisation could make a good route. 2m L pf PS. Unprotected moves up L to first bolt, thin moves up past another bolt to mossy ledge. Up past another bolt to a friable unprotected bulge with a bolt after the hard moves. Up to knobbly wall [#0.5 cam] and on to large ledge with DBB. [also possible to duck R to ES belay]

FA: Greg Aimer & Chrissie Freestone, 1992

Unprotected at the hard parts, but some quite nice climbing. 24m L of PS at very L end of overlap at 3m. Over this and up slab past obvious knob [10m up, first pro] for 15m, then diagonally R to flakes. Up these until they run out in 10m. Now 3m up knobby wall, then 3m diagonally L up unprotected delicate wall. Up slab for 10m and little wall above.

FA: Mike Law [solo], 1991

Start: L leading diagonal 8m L of HoW. This is the lowest of 3 diagonals.

  1. 25m (10) Up diagonal and follow it to cave. Up slab above line to cave.

  2. 25m (15) Yellow crack above cave to terrace. R, then up wall. Descent involves scrambling as low as possible and finding something to abb off.

FA: Chris Baxter, Stephen Hamilton [alt] & Josh Holko, 1991

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Follow tracks from Halls Gap; following the Venus Baths track. Just before Venus Baths, the track goes up stairs to left on the way to Splitters Falls. Follow track until near river - then over rocks to the other side. Theres a boulder feild over this: up right and around to top to the base of route.

  1. 50m/3 - Starts low across river going up wall and weaving left before tending back right. Belay at boulders.

  2. 50m/2 - Up over boulders up high past deep channels and belay on top of boulders up right.

  3. 50m/2 - Follow major ridge tending right and up to before break

  4. 50m/3 - Off to right from belay and up to large ledge.

  5. 40m/2 - Up steep wall onto easy terrain - belay at large block

  6. 60m/1 - Weaves on scrambles up low slabs to corner crack.

  7. 35m/4 - Interesting corner and good gear. Up and over the left of this to bollard belays.

  8. Over deep chasms and up far wall to left side of summit of Mackeys Peak.

Descent via scrambling back down towards pitch 7 but then left and down to right; following down slot to walking track. Track leads back to Halls Gap

FA: Grant Baxter, L Baxx & Stephen Baxter, 19 Sep 2016

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