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Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created 2 years ago - Edited about two years ago

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Description

Easy access, in a charming spot. It's a wonder why The First Dial is infrequently visited. There is a handful of excellent routes in the moderate grade range, but many below average in the easier grade. The First Dial faces East, giving it morning sun.

Access issues

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at this location. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

Approach

Park at Seven Dials Track (gated) on Redman's road where there is a small pull out opposite. This is approx 100m past Barbican Rocks and a causeway.

An easy walk up the Seven Dials Track for 700m, before looking out for a small foot padt. This is marked by a forked tree hanging over the Seven Dials Track and rock cairns. Once on the track, follow it as it rises steeply through scrub, keeping an eye out for the pink tape and cairns along the way. The track should bring you to the base of Teeny Buckets.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Pull powerfully through the roof (watch the hollow flake!) and then up direct line.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Ann Pauligk

Superseeded by Intermission.

Classic of yester-year. Climb brittle rock for 5m, step left into a stance, clip an average looking carrot. Up through horizontals, before reaching a good stance out L. Step back right into thin crack and up through orange bulge, then L to ledge.

One of the best at the grade in the Grampians. Sustained on great rock and reasonable protection. 1 piton and 1 BR

The first Aussie female ascent at this grade, and an FA no less.

FA: Ann Pauligk, Sylvia Lazarnick & Julie Tulloch, 1977

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Activity

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