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The First Dial

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Description

Easy access, in a charming spot. It's a wonder why The First Dial is infrequently visited. There is a handful of excellent routes in the moderate grade range, but many below average in the easier grade. The First Dial faces East, giving it morning sun.

Access issues

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at this location. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019. Please refer to the following link for current and detailed advice: https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

Approach

Park at Seven Dials Track (gated) on Redman's road where there is a small pull out opposite. This is approx 100m past Barbican Rocks and a causeway.

An easy walk up the Seven Dials Track for 700m, before looking out for a small foot padt. This is marked by a forked tree hanging over the Seven Dials Track and rock cairns. Once on the track, follow it as it rises steeply through scrub, keeping an eye out for the pink tape and cairns along the way. The track should bring you to the base of Teeny Buckets.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Pull powerfully through the roof (watch the hollow flake!) and then up direct line.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Ann Pauligk

Superseeded by Intermission.

Classic of yester-year. Climb brittle rock for 5m, step left into a stance, clip an average looking carrot. Up through horizontals, before reaching a good stance out L. Step back right into thin crack and up through orange bulge, then L to ledge.

One of the best at the grade in the Grampians. Sustained on great rock and reasonable protection. 1 piton and 1 BR

The first Aussie female ascent at this grade, and an FA no less.

FA: Ann Pauligk, Sylvia Lazarnick & Julie Tulloch, 1977

Did you know?

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2009

ISBN: 958733147

With North Gramps, The Black Range, Central Gramps, Halls Gap, Sth East Gramps and the Victoria Range areas covered, you'll have no shortage of inspiration at your disposal. With 800 routes, full colour maps and topos as well as heaps of additional info, this guide will have you sorted.

Author(s): Neil Monteith and Simon Carter

Date: 2015

ISBN: 9780994278401

Neil Monteith and Simon Carter took no time to rest after the release of their 2013 Sport Crags edition and have now release a more comprehensive guide also covering several popular trad and multipitch areas. The guide contains 61 crags and 1200 routes and also includes the likes of Grey Green Walls, Central Buttress, Asses Ears and the popular beginners trad area of Summerday Valley which weren't covered in the Sport only edition. With all the motivating and awe-inspiring photos we've come to expect from Australia's premier climbing photographer Simon Carter, and easy to use layout including access maps and detailed topo's, you won't be left hanging.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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