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Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created 2 years ago - Edited about two years ago
1 20 50m
2 28 20m
3 18 40m

description

"The best line in Australia...". Also notable for the fact that Nyrie Dodd's free ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 27.

The second pitch roof-crack could hardly be in a better position.

This is also a superb mixed climb at 20, M2 if the roof is aided. Sadly it is often under-estimated and the detritus of retreat is often evident. It is not a practice route.

The start is rather obvious.

  1. 50m (20) Up wide crack. Belay at stance where crack ends, about 10m below the roof. A #5 cam is useful on this pitch.

  2. 20m (27) Move R to gain nice rail that leads L to the back of the roof, and the start of the roof crack. Follow crack (at either 27 or M2) to the lip and then up to belay stance.

  3. 40m (18) Ramble up to the top.

© (deano)

Route history

3 Oct 1974First ascent: K. Lockwood & J Friend
1986First free ascent: Nyrie Dodd

Warnings

25 Jul 2019 Warning Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

Location

Lat/Lon: -37.30700, 142.29724

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

20,28,18 Assigned grade
27 *** ACA Route Register
27 or 20M2 Grampians Selected Climbs
28 The Victoria Range
28 RockGUIDE: Victoria

Seasonality

J
F
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A
M
J
J
A
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O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 93 from 18 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 1
Tick 3
Attempt 7
Target 3

Comment keywords

easy bail hands epic face lip offwidth bad roof fantastic good great awesome sweet amazing beautiful super

Activity

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