Help

Main Wall

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created 2 years ago - Edited about two years ago

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

This is one of the best sections of cliff in the Grand Canyon area with a fairly continuous cliff line. As well as some fierce wall routes there is a good range of middle grade routes mostly on clean sound rock. To descend head back from the top of the cliff to find a deep gully running parallel with the cliff, follow this L ward to descend just beyond Chinese Take-away

Access issues inherited from Halls Gap Area

A low profile always helps to avoid too much attention from tourists and park rangers.

"Please do not add any routes (old or new) to this database for the time being."

Ethic inherited from Halls Gap Area

Bolting, is considered illicit, along with the rest of the park and other National Parks within Victoria. Only alter routes after considerable consultation with first ascensionests and local climbers.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Prominent overhanging crack [first good line R of descent gully] at L end of a yellow section of wall. Step up and R to crack. It widens and steepens near the top.

FA: Jerry Maddox, Richard Hitchins & Iain Sedgman, 1978

Thin crack direct to reach main crack.

FA: James McIntosh, Peter Jacob & Andrew Webb, 1998

Starts up the L leading ramp starting just L of the big groove line of Fire Dragon. Pull up onto the ramp [hard and committing for the short]. Follow ramp Lward. Step up and L when ramp runs out. Up and slightly L on surprising holds on steep wall. A good outing for the grade.

FA: Chris Baxter & Sue Baxter, 1990

Start 3 m left of arete. Incuts to join original route at end of ramp.

FA: Glen Donohue, Graeme Smith & Andrew Webb, 1996

Beyond the LH end of the wall with the bolted sport routes are 3 deep old fashioned cracks. This is the LH one in a R facing corner. A good steep exercise in awkward jamming and bridging technique. [This route was shown as being The Good Soldier Schwiek in the Select Guide]

FA: Mike March, Terry Brooks & Iain Sedgman, 1973

Steep flake crack 2m R of FD leads up and slightly R to a ledge. Climb steep crack in arête and face above.

FA: Simon Barnaby Stuart Gardner, 1989

Deep crack line R of TGSS. From the first ledge it is possible to step into the upper crack of TGSS for a grade 17 jamming route. This is the combination that appeared in the Grampians Select Guide as Fire Dragon.

FA: Mike March & Iain Sedgman, 1973

Crack 4m R of Rickshaw.

FA: Mike March, Terry Brooks & Iain Sedgman, 1973

The moves at the first bolt are much harder since some holds have been shed. This is followed by some excellent pocket pulling, however it's hard not to escape some of the hard moves up higher. Some wires protect the climbing after the 4th bolt.

FA: Simon Carter, 1990

Follow the line of FH and rings to the rap anchor. The bolts are not great but you can do Sacred Ground and TR it.

FA: David Singleton & Rebecca Butcher, 1995

First RB of Tatrazine then left side of the black groove finishing at the shared anchors up to the left. 5 RBs

FFA: Matt & Daniel Brooks, 1991

1 RB at the (desperate) start then black chimney/groove to anchors on Sprung.

Bolted, featured black streak in the centre of wall. Retrobolted, but crux bolt is still old and dodgy. Take some wires, slings, medium cams to supplement bolts. No anchor - top out or diagonal across to anchor on Sprung after 2nd last bolt.

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Main Wall.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文