A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Philip Armstrong Campbell Gome Dave Scarlett Douglas Hockly Wendy Eden benwiessner Stirlo Glen Buchanan Andy Keum Tony Williams
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Main Wall 28 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Main Wall 28 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
description
This is one of the best sections of cliff in the Grand Canyon area with a fairly continuous cliff line. As well as some fierce wall routes there is a good range of middle grade routes mostly on clean sound rock. To descend head back from the top of the cliff to find a deep gully running parallel with the cliff, follow this L ward to descend just beyond Chinese Take-away
access issues
Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd
ethic
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Chinese Take-away
Prominent overhanging crack [first good line R of descent gully] at L end of a yellow section of wall. Step up and R to crack. It widens and steepens near the top. FA: Jerry Maddox, Richard Hitchins & Iain Sedgman, 1978 | 16 | 20m | |||||
2 |
Chinese Take-away DS
Thin crack direct to reach main crack. FA: James McIntosh, Peter Jacob & Andrew Webb, 1998 | 18 | ||||||
3 | U Pong | 18 | 25m | |||||
4 | Tibet | 16 | 25m | |||||
5 | Gang of Four | 17 | 25m | |||||
6 | Mao | 17 | 25m | |||||
7 | Chin Chimney | 5 | 20m | |||||
8 | The Iron Rooster | 17 | 27m | |||||
9 |
★ Little Bourke Street
Starts up the L leading ramp starting just L of the big groove line of Fire Dragon. Pull up onto the ramp [hard and committing for the short]. Follow ramp Lward. Step up and L when ramp runs out. Up and slightly L on surprising holds on steep wall. A good outing for the grade. FA: Chris Baxter & Sue Baxter, 1990 | 15 | 27m | |||||
10 |
★ Little Bourke Street Direct Start
Start 3 m left of arete. Incuts to join original route at end of ramp. FA: Glen Donohue, Graeme Smith & Andrew Webb, 1996 | 16 | 7m | |||||
11 |
★★ Fire Dragon
Beyond the LH end of the wall with the bolted sport routes are 3 deep old fashioned cracks. This is the LH one in a R facing corner. A good steep exercise in awkward jamming and bridging technique. [This route was shown as being The Good Soldier Schwiek in the Select Guide] FA: Mike March, Terry Brooks & Iain Sedgman, 1973 | 16 | 23m | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 |
★ The Good Soldier Schweik
Steep flake crack 2m R of FD leads up and slightly R to a ledge. Climb steep crack in arête and face above. FA: Simon Barnaby Stuart Gardner, 1989 | 21 | 23m | |||||
13 |
★ Rickshaw
Deep crack line R of TGSS. From the first ledge it is possible to step into the upper crack of TGSS for a grade 17 jamming route. This is the combination that appeared in the Grampians Select Guide as Fire Dragon. FA: Mike March & Iain Sedgman, 1973 | 13 | 23m | |||||
14 |
Kung Fu
Crack 4m R of Rickshaw. FA: Mike March, Terry Brooks & Iain Sedgman, 1973 | 12 | 23m | |||||
15 |
★ Blue Sky Mining
The moves at the first bolt are much harder since some holds have been shed. This is followed by some excellent pocket pulling, however it's hard not to escape some of the hard moves up higher. Some wires protect the climbing after the 4th bolt. FA: Simon Carter, 1990 | 26 | 25m, 4 | |||||
16 |
★★ Sprung
Follow the line of FH and rings to the rap anchor. The bolts are not great but you can do Sacred Ground and TR it. FA: David Singleton & Rebecca Butcher, 1995 | 22 | 25m, 6 | |||||
17 |
★ Sacred Ground
First RB of Tatrazine then left side of the black groove finishing at the shared anchors up to the left. 5 RBs FFA: Matt & Daniel Brooks, 1991 | 21 | 25m, 5 | |||||
18 |
Tartrazine
1 RB at the (desperate) start then black chimney/groove to anchors on Sprung. | 20 | 25m, 1 | |||||
19 |
★ Checkpoint Charlie
Bolted, featured black streak in the centre of wall. Retrobolted, but crux bolt is still old and dodgy. Take some wires, slings, medium cams to supplement bolts. No anchor - top out or diagonal across to anchor on Sprung after 2nd last bolt. | 17 | 25m, 5 | |||||
20 | Peking Duck | 19 | 25m | |||||
21 | Ming | 10 | 28m | |||||
22 | Hung Low | 16 | 27m | |||||
23 | China Crisis | 18 | 23m | |||||
24 | Hu Flung Dung | 19 | 23m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
25 | ★★ Well Hung | 19 | 27m | |||||
26 | Shogun | 19 | 27m | |||||
27 | Year of the Tiger | 18 | 25m | |||||
28 | ★ Black Russian | 24 | 20m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5 | Chin Chimney | 20m | |||
10 | Ming | 28m | |||
12 | Kung Fu | 23m | |||
13 | ★ | Rickshaw | 23m | ||
15 | ★ | Little Bourke Street | 27m | ||
16 | Chinese Take-away | 20m | |||
★★ | Fire Dragon | 23m | |||
Hung Low | 27m | ||||
★ | Little Bourke Street Direct Start | 7m | |||
Tibet | 25m | ||||
17 | ★ | Checkpoint Charlie | 25m, 5 | ||
Gang of Four | 25m | ||||
Mao | 25m | ||||
The Iron Rooster | 27m | ||||
18 | China Crisis | 23m | |||
Chinese Take-away DS | |||||
U Pong | 25m | ||||
Year of the Tiger | 25m | ||||
19 | Hu Flung Dung | 23m | |||
Peking Duck | 25m | ||||
Shogun | 27m | ||||
★★ | Well Hung | 27m | |||
20 | Tartrazine | 25m, 1 | |||
21 | ★ | Sacred Ground | 25m, 5 | ||
★ | The Good Soldier Schweik | 23m | |||
22 | ★★ | Sprung | 25m, 6 | ||
24 | ★ | Black Russian | 20m | ||
26 | ★ | Blue Sky Mining | 25m, 4 |