Routes in Victoria Range

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 2,529 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Eureka Area Spanish Galleon
21 Legend of Pat Brown

Shares first four bolts of No Feet, No Head, No Hands, then steps out left, bouldery moves up slab to 'plates' then slabby moves on slopers to lower off.

FA: Steve Holloway, steven wilson, Mike Rockell, Amanda Holloway & Sam Gribbles

Sport 15m, 8
20 No Feet, No Head, No Hands

Black slab on left of main face. Bridge up to slab, fun climbing staying just left of and on arete

Set by Steve Holloway

FA: Steve Holloway, Brett Williams, steven wilson & Wally Funk, 9 Jul 2016

Sport 12m, 6
Rising Tide

CLOSED PROJECT Starts on left arete, diagonal rising traverse finishing at Pirate Life lower off

Set by steven wilson

22 Rogues and Rip Off Merchants

STICK CLIP FIRST BOLT Start a few metres right of left arête of main wall, thin moves directly up past first bolt (crux) to jugs and second bolt on Rising Tide. Diagonally left to stance on arête then up past small alcove and slopey jugs to lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, anthony pattison & steven wilson, 17 Dec 2016

Sport 17m, 7
24 Persigue al Dragon

Start between Rougues etc and Six on the Stick, straight up line taking third bolt of Rising Tide and last bolt of Rougues etc...nice!!

FA: Steve Holloway, 14 Apr 2017

Sport 18m, 6
26 Six on the Stick

Next in line of the Galleon three star trio! Another fantastic route on crimps, sidepulls and slopers...Enjoy!! Line left of Kingdom of Fear, then finishes up and right on jugs to same lower off for KoF.

FA: steven wilson, Steve Holloway & Chuck Picola, 13 Aug 2016

Sport 18m, 6
25 Kingdom of Fear

Another Galleon classic is OPEN FOR BUSINESS!! Start half way along rock fin (couple of metres left of Splinter) straight up past first three bolts, then boulder out right (crux) then up and left to jug, then another cruxy move to last bolt then mega jugs! Enjoy

Set by Steve Holloway

FA: Steve Holloway & Mark Rewi, 6 Aug 2016

Sport 17m, 8
21 Splinter

Gets the blood moving - Centre line starting off top of rock fin, through black streaked bulge to lower off.

FA: Steve Holloway, A. Holloway & Paul Revere, Apr 2015

Sport 17m, 7
24 Four on the Floor

Start in chasm just left of bolted crack on right side of crag. Bridge across from rock fin (careful of average rock at start), cruise up wall on great jugs to stance, drop the clutch and straight up wall on small holds to lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, Amanda Holloway, Brett Williams & Jeremy Greville, 5 Jul 2015

Sport 24m, 11
23 Pirate Life

Crack and right arete. Start just right of Four on the Floor, up pocket crack to good stance on 'nose' of arete. Sail up arete on slopers and side pulls, step left at last bolt (crux), then back right to lower off NOTE (July 2016) - 2 x incorrectly placed / additional bolts on arete will be removed

Set by Steve Holloway

FA: Steve Holloway & K.J. Whitt, 27 Mar 2016

Sport 26m, 9
Eureka Area Hidden Buttress
11 Book of leaves

A fantastic outing up a good line with good gear and pretty good quality rock (for a new route!). Starts on the lower side of the buttress, on the RHS at a steep crack. Up this and into the corner where you will be rewarded with lots of fun, interesting, sustained bridging for the grade with good gear. Pitch at the ledge (about 25m) or continue on to the top.

Located at GPS points S37 11.365 E142 16.268 @ 510m above sea level.

FA: Josef Goding & Ross Richards (Alts), 4 Apr 2014

Trad 40m, 2
Eureka Area Eureka Wall
16 PG Jimmy John's Direct

Great adventure climbing. Climbs the big grey wall (Jimmy John's Wall) across the Eureka gully from Clean Cut Walls and directly below Eureka. From the Eureka gully, step right and up across a short ramp (5 meters), then straight up for 50 meters across low angled, highly feature and highly fun rock! Climb through the middle of the upper headwall (10 meters) via a short left facing corner and then up and right through the steep face to the top of the wall. The climb can be done in one 70 meter pitch, but it may be preferable to belay in the middle of the low angled wall as the upper headwall is steap and gear can be difficult to place. Descend by walking straight back to the Eureka Wall, which will place you at the bottom of Veggie Maths.

FFA: Phil Gruber & Jimmy Gruber, 21 Sep 2014

Trad 70m
11 Going In Blind

1: starting 15 metres left of Nose Hairs climb direct up slab/ramp to left side of roof at half height (40m)

2: Traverse out left and up over bulge easily and up and right joining into Nose Hairs for summit.

FA: Jimmy & Louis Godsell, 19 Apr 2015

Trad 90m, 2
10 Nose Hairs

Start in an alcove behind a tree at the very lower left corner of Jimmy John's. Climb up and right toward the arete, belaying in the low angle rock. Continue toward the arete and over a small roof, into the nose hairs, belaying on the arete after passing the steep section above the roof. Continue up the arete to the top of Jimmy John's.

FA: Jimmy, lily & phil Gruber

Trad 100m
17 Heisenburg's Uncertainty Principle

The position and momentum of this route can not be simultaneously determined. Not in the same class as the rest of the crag. The next crack left of Newton's Law, 3 metres left of Maxwell's Demon, move left at ledge and continue straight up.

FA: James & Melanie McIntosh, 1992

Trad 50m
20 Maxwell's Demon

A thought experiment intended to show that the 2nd Law of Thermodynamics has only a statistical certainty. Start 4m L of Newton's Law. Wall just R of easy crack to ledge, trend R up grooves.

FA: James & Melanie McIntosh with a rest or 2., 1992

Trad 20m
24 Newton's Law

Noddy's physics need a brush up...there are three Newton's laws, not one! Start under the nice thin crack on the L side of the wall. A great thin crack to the walk-off ledge.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Monks, 1991

Trad 30m
23 Diminishing Returns (Top Half)

Start as for Darwin's Theory for 10m then blast straight up orange wall past very spaced bolts and finish up grey headwall.

FA: Kent Paterson, Apr 2012

Mixed trad 30m, 5
20 Darwin's theory into Diminishing returns

Link up - Climb Darwins Theory to the top of the first pitch (obvious big break) the head up Diminishing returns for the last couple of bolts to anchor

Trad 20m
18 Darwin's Theory (1st 2 pitches)

Survival of the fittest. Described without the third pitch so that it gets noticed as a fantastic 2 pitch 18.

Start: Start as for Newton's Law.

  1. 30m (18) Up "Newton's Law" for 5m then R to the line of big white scooped out pockets. Up these (take slings for threads), then a piton for the finish to the break.

  2. 25m (18) Hand traverse R along the rising break to the rap anchor above "Pythagoras' Theorem".

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1991

Trad 55m, 2
23 Darwin's Theory pitch 3

Natural selection in action: nobody does this.

Start: Start at the rap anchor above Pythagoras' Theorem.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1991

Trad 10m
24 Foucault's Pendulum

A great pitch that goes all on natural gear. Follow the first pitch of Darwin's Theory to the second thread in the huecos (just below the piton). From the big thread, traverse out right across the weakness that is visible leading all the way across into Archimedes' Principle, finishing as for that route.

FA: Ross Taylor & Adam Demmert, 2009

Trad 45m
27 Diminishing Returns

Needs a 60m rope!!!!!

Sport 30m
22 Archimedes Principle P1
Trad 20m
26 Archimedes' Principle

"Any object, wholly or partially immersed in a fluid, is buoyed up by a force equal to the weight of the fluid displaced by the object." Routes like this are why you travel for hours/days to get to the 'Grampians'. First 2 pitches are often worked in 1 pitch from the ground.

Start: Start under a low bolt at the base of the most impressive part of the wall.

  1. 20m (22) Up past the bolt then R along a break to a semi-hanging belay.

  2. 30m (25) The grey line of holds up the otherwise blank wall. Sucks up dozens of med-large wires. Often done on preplaced gear which probably drops a grade.

  3. 10m (26) A little boulder problem around the roof past a bolt. Nobody seems to bother with this pitch.

FA: Keith Lockwood (p1), Steve Monks (p2 & 3), 1991

Mixed trad 60m, 3, 2
27 String Theory

Start: Start as for AP

  1. 22 - 30m Climb Archimedes' Principle to belay of first pitch then continue along break to Pythagoras' Theorem. Either belay in corner or climb down to Pythagoras' Theorem first pitch ledge. 1 bolt

  2. 27 - 50m Continue along obvious traverse line from Pythagoras' Theorem with mostly good holds but poor feet, all the way out to join Vegie Maths at the head wall (2nd last bolt of that route) and follow this to the top. 7 bolts

Adam Demmert and John Schmit climbed pitch 1 in 2009. The Adam and Malcolm did the second in 2014

FFA: adam demmert, jono schmidt & Malcolm Matherson, 17 Nov 2014

Mixed trad 80m, 2, 8
20 Pythagoras' Theorem P1
Trad 10m
26 Pythagoras' Theorem

a2 + b2 = c2. Prepare your groin for some hypotenuse action. The other ultra-classic line here.

It's supposed to finish via the third pitch of "Darwin's Theory" but this is often ignored.

Start: Start under the central corner.

  1. 10m (20) Pocketed crack to ledge at base of corner.

  2. 30m (26) The stemming corner, then move left and finish up the arete.

FA: Keith Lockwood (1) & Steve Monks (2-3), 1991

Mixed trad 50m, 2, 3
26 Ockham's Razor

"The simplest explanation or strategy tends to be the best one" This is a direct of the arête of Pythagoras' Theorem and was climbed as one long pitch. Start as for PT first pitch, at ledge clip first bolt and climb face between arête and corner. When level with first bolt move on to arête proper and follow this all the way to the top alcove. There is a tricky crux just before you join PT on the arête. 5 carrot bolts and trad.

FFA: adam demmert, 2009

Mixed trad 40m, 5
30 General Relativity

Starts as per PT moving right at undercling flake. Moves into PD for 10m then weaves up incredible thin face.

FA: 2014

Trad 48m
29 Pavlov's Dog

Start just left of SC. Amazing wall climb.

Set by kp, 2014

Sport 14
28 Cats & Dogs

Straightens out SC. Starts up SC, finishes up headwall of KP project.

FA: clean cut phil

Mixed trad 10
25 Schrodinger's Cat

Kitty is simultaneously alive and dead ... until you look. Start 15m R of 'Pythagoras Theorem'. Short steep corner crack then L up ramp past bolt. Back R through overlap to 3 more bolts up the wall above.

FA: Steve Monks & Martin Scheel, 1991

Mixed trad 45m, 4
25 Vege Maths

Amazing line.Finishes at SC anchors.

FA: Toby Pola & Kent Paterson

Mixed trad 30m, 8
Eureka Area Eureka Towers
20 Journey To Gary's World

5 metres R of 'Return to Gariwerd'. Start off small rock, tricky start on thin seams and opposing side pulls, easing upwards to great rounded holds. Belay off chicken heads.

FA: James Wynne, 10 Jun 2016

Trad 15m
22 Return to Gariwerd

Lovely climbing with excellent protection.

Begin on the right edge of the blank orange shield. Up thin broken crack stepping left to flake then straight up the grey streak. The original route stopped here and descent was by scrambling off right with a possible rappel. However, a fantastic new finish was added in 2003 by Josh Janes:

Instead of stopping/belaying, hand traverse straight left under the roof for 15 meters. The difficulty increases as the wall below becomes steeper and handholds become more spaced. Eventually gain a good stance at the end of the roof and belay from a bolted anchor (added in 2017). Rap from here with a single 70m rope (a single 60m rope might reach - watch your ends).

FA: Louise Shepherd & Simon Mentz

Trad 35m
12 Hunter Gatherer

A steep jug haul up the right-hand tower.

FA: Kieth Lockwood & Enga Lokey, 1991

Trad 50m
20 R Jardwadjaliland

Left of "Return To Gariwerd" is a grey slab criss-crossed by thin cracks.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood & Enga Lokey, 1991

Trad 35m
25 Tchingal the Emu

Start: Start down left of "Jardwadjali Land".

  1. 15m (17) Up the corner to the ledges just left of "Jardwadjali Land".

  2. 35m (25) Up to the flake that crosses the roof, swing out along this then up the smooth headwall to the top.

FA: Steve Monks & Damien Carol, 1991

Trad 50m, 2
Eureka Area Clean Cut Walls
8 Son Of Clean Cut

Up grey wall around corner from Highly Evolved.

FA: Jimmy Gruber, 2014

Sport 26m, 7
27 Highly Evolved

Crazy jump to start or 26 if you batman to first jug. Awesome either way.

FA: Kent Paterson & Andrew Anderson, 2014

Sport 30m, 11
18 Stray Sheep

Fab warm up. Starts up crack system.

Sport 30m, 13
23 Sea Within A Sea

The streaked wall right of Highly Evolved. Start up grey slab. WARNING - Be aware of potential ledge fall potential, do not give soft catches

FA: Kent Paterson & Andrew Anderson

Sport 30m, 11
16 Sleep No More

Great pocketed corner line. Accessed via fixed rope.

FA: Emi K

Sport 20m
16 Chinese Bombs

Left side of grey face. Bouldery at start. Drop a grade or two if you bridge up the tree.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2015

Sport 10m, 4
14 Plat Du Jour

Starts on right side of grey face. The tree is now gone. Batman off first bolt or traverse in from left (grade 15?)

FA: Emi K

Sport 15m
22 Think Twice

Climbs much better than it looks, a great overlooked route for those who's brain starts to fade after clipping too many bolts. Starts a few m right of Plat Du Jour at bouldery overhang. Straight up this and wall (small wires) to arete and hollow flake. Make a move R, and up short corner to amazing diagonal line (wires / small-med cams). Along this to finish at the anchor of Phil's project.

FA: Goshen Watts & Jimmy, 16 May 2015

Trad 20m
16 Thank God for the French

Start at first bolt of closed project, then follow undercling traverse to arête then up and left in crack to lower off of Plat Du Jour

FA: Jimmy & Andreas Aachen, 16 Mar 2015

Mixed trad 20m, 1
Project - CLOSED (Phil Neville)

Starts 3m left of Trouble Cut. Unlikely.

Set by Kent Paterson

23 Trouble Cut

On Upper Tier. Orange wall left of grey seam. Has chain with krab on second bolt.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2014

Sport 14m, 7
24 Fratin Brothers

Grey seam on Upper Tier

FA: Kent Paterson, 2014

Sport 15m, 9
25 Cut Throat

Starts few meters right of Fratin Brothers off the block. Up via thin side pulls.

FFA: adam demmert, 7 Sep 2014

Sport 12m, 7
16 Brighten the Corners

The bolted corner.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2015

Sport 10m, 5
Open project

Thin face 3m right if Brighten the Corners.

25 The Man Who Sold The World

Two pitches on left side of orange buttress. Pretty much the Pilot Error of the Gramps (i.e. novelty photo route).

FA: Kent Paterson, 2014

Sport 26m, 2
28 Shallow Water

Up on upper tier. Through water streak on beautiful orange face. Has chain on third bolt.

Set by Kent Paterson, 2014

Sport 25m, 10
Project - open

Starts up OOTS then girdles uncontrollably leftwards.

Set by Kent Paterson, 2014

25 Observations Of The Scene

Starts as Two Birdies then moves left up lovely orange face.

Sport 25m
23 Two Birdies

Up crack to cool arete. The crux is cryptic.

Sport 20m, 10
22 Cuttting The Grass

Straight up the crack. Enjoy the great water polished rock.

FA: Kent Paterson & Andrew Anderson, 2014

Sport 26m, 11
25 The CCC (Clean Cut Clan)

Starts as per TB then goes right after rootlet across slab and up steep wall via a hard crux. May be easier than graded

FFA: adam demmert & Mike Tomkins, 7 Sep 2014

Sport 25m, 13
22 Upper Cut

Starts as per VT. Big traverse left. Place 1.2m sling on bolt no. 6

FA: Kent Paterson, 2014

Sport 20m, 12
20 New Normal

Start as per VT, after 4th bolt veer left past 4 more bolts.

Sport 15m, 10
18 Villiers Terrace

Bolted Water streaks on right side of fixed lines. Shared start to other routes.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2014

Sport 15m
23 Deadly Rhythm

...of the production line. Starts as LP then busts left up prow

FA: Kent Paterson, 2014

Sport 15m, 10
21 Liberal Party

The far right. Starts on a slab.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2014

Sport 14m, 8
23 Gerbil's Route

Starts on far right hand end of the Upper Tier of Clean Cuts. Great flake line that faces Eureka.WARNING : Belayer and climber please pay close attention to nearby wall, as it gets very close at one point

Sport 20m, 12
Eureka Area Alkali Tide Wall
16 The Alkali Tide

Worth doing for the second pitch experience (not!).

Start: Start under overhang at right end of wall.

  1. 30m (16) Boulder the roof then up to ledge. Slither up through overhang. Up 1 metre right of faded guano streak. Up and past left end of grassy ledge (slings). Belay on arete.

  2. 20m (1) Up.

FA: Wade Stevens & Tim Day, 1996

Trad 50m, 2
Eureka Area The Red Sail
26 Bristol Fashion

The left arete of the buttress.

  1. 20m (22) Up "Sailing Away" for 15 metres then traverse left past a BR to a HBB on left arete.

  2. 25m (26) Up the blunt arete above the belay and up to a rest at a huge flake. Up to the roof (crux) and climb rightward across this to the top.

FA: Steve Monks & Damien Carol, 1991

Mixed trad 45m, 2, 1
23 Sailing Away

The spectacular right arete.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1991

Mixed trad 45m, 3
Eureka Area Worthless Wall
12 Roaming Hands

Only worthwhile crack and is on left side of a steep, clean wall. Scramble up to a terrace to start. Climb crack and abseil from tree.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1980

Trad 35m
Eureka Area Weirs Creek West Side
22 Reload.......Now!

Start off boulder at left end of wall. Up wall on great jugs to base of head wall where holds become significantly smaller (crux)! Up to lower off on very top of wall.

FA: Steve Holloway & Matt Johnston, 9 Nov 2014

Sport 18m, 8
18 Reload-Revolver

For another good warm up - go right at second last bolt to lower off above Revolver.

Sport 18m, 8
20 Lapsed Pacifist

East-facing, orange-streaked wall that is obvious from walking track and Disparate Housewives area. The first clip looks a bit daunting but is quite easy and safe if the belayer is organised properly. Step across gap to short diagonal past 2 bolts. Up on thin holds then thin moves before moving right and up.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 9 Apr 2012

Sport 15m, 7
21 Revolver

Starts at small hanging corner just down right of LP. Stick clip first bolt. Up corner (crux) to join LP at third bolt, step left then up keeping right of bolts to lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, Matt Johnston & Z D Rocha, 2014

Sport 20m, 8
21 Right Caliber

Same start as for Revolver. At third bolt (as for LP), rising traverse out right using bolts on Me and My Gun and Pump Action (use long draws) to lower off on right arete above 3 minute rule.

Another good variant at same grade is to continue up Me and My Gun from middle of traverse.

FA: Steve Holloway & Anthony Pattison

Sport 18m, 7
22 Me and My Gun

Line in middle of wall, right of Revolver. Stick clip first bolt. Start off rock step, Thin, technical start past first bolt (crux). Up right to undercling then straight up wall to central lower off.

FA: Steve Holloway & Amanda Holloway, 2014

Sport 20m, 8
23 Pump Action

Stick clip first bolt. Undercut start (as for Silencer and 3 minute Rule), up RH short corner for a few moves, then out left on small holds along horizontal break between 3rd and 4th bolt, hard move up to short right leaning flake (crux). Up wall trending left at top to join Me and My Gun for last bolt and lower off. Best to use long draws for third and fourth bolts.

FA: Steve Holloway, Matt Johnston, Z D Rocha & Anthony Pattison, 13 Sep 2014

Sport 20m, 9
24 Silencer

Maybe 25? Undercut start as for Pump Action and 3 Minute Rule, up left leading shallow corner to undercling traverse (crux) and into Me and My Gun, up this to lower off. Use long draws on second and third bolts and first bolt of Me and My Gun (at end of traverse)

FA: Stephen Holloway & Rowan Blakers, 18 Jan 2015

Sport 25m, 12
19 3 minute rule

Good warm up. Undercut start (as for Pump Action and Silencer), up short RH corner to horizontal break, up wall on thin holds (crux) to jugs and lower off just left of arete

FA: Steve Holloway & Amanda Holloway, 21 Sep 2014

Sport 15m, 8
Eureka Area Weirs Creek
17 Matter

Pleasant face on the left near the top of the gully. Step left off boulder and up.

FA: Kieran Loughran, 2010

Sport 10m, 5
Open Project

The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully. The bottom section needs equipping and will be a little contrived in middle where it is hard to avoid easy ground on left.

Sport 15m
23 Smoky and the Banditos LHV

Start up 'Smoky and the Banditos' until 4th RB then go left to fixed hangers on arete.

Sport 20m, 9
25 Smoky and the Banditos

U-bolts to the right of The left edge of the left wall of the chimney-gully.

FFA: adam demmert & , 7 Jan 2012

Sport 20m
Smoky and the Banditos Direct finish

Open Project - bring your steely fingers for the last 4 bolts of this direct finish

FA: Adam Demmert, Jan 2012

Special Circumstances (Open Project)

Right of the chimney gully is a left-right rising traverse below an overhang. Currently has a couple of old cams in it. Probably needs more bolts.

Trad 15m
16 Grey Area

Nice face-climbing which is better than it looks. Lots of wires and some small cams. Face starting 3 metres left of the corner of Contact to anchor of Special Circumstances at right end of roof system.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 13 Aug 2011

Trad 12m
16 Contact

Short, attractive corner on right side of terrace on the right side of the gully. Looks good but is a bit brittle.

The short corner to large sloping ledge and up slightly left to anchor for Grey Area.

FA: Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 2010

Trad 12m
9 Return Of The Native

Start a little left of where the track reaches the cliff just before it breaks up into gullies, at the left edge of an easy face below the left edge of orange overhangs at 15 metres.

Up the face with a bulge at 7 metres to the line immediately left of the overhangs and up to ledge at 30 metres. Continue up the steeper corner to a large sloping ledge. Either go left to the rap anchor for "Contact" or continue and on up the face to terrace.

20 metre abseil to terrace to east (will have to leave a sling) and descend gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 2010

Trad 50m
15 Sleeper Service

Pleasant first pitch but second pitch breaks down quickly.

Start: Start at the base of the gully immediately right of where the track meets the cliff.

  1. 20m (12) Traverse diagonally left, following crack just above lip of overhang. Climb wall past right sid of next overhang and up to belay at end of big diagonal ramp.

  2. 45m (15) Move right and make committing move through the bulge. Continue up, taking care with rock (fragile, loose blocks). Belay off tree on ridge at the top of "Disparate Housewives Wall". Either scramble, roped,across to rap anchor on "Disparate Housewives" or go to the top and walk east to the "Matter" gully.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Ray Lassman (alt), 2010

Sport 60m, 2
20 Dumber Bay

A bit short on content, but a brilliant location for photos of other climbs. Don't weight the anchors until holding the jugs at the top. Scramble out the ramp left of Disparate Housewives to 2 belay bolts on ramp system.

Short, seamy wall starting at flake from ramp system.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 15 Oct 2011

Sport 8m, 3
24 Climber Wants a Wife

Leftmost of the good pocketed routes. Easy pocketed start to left slanting weakness, then fingery crux up grey wall.

FA: Neil Monteith & Rebecca Hopkins, Apr 2012

Sport 14m, 6
19 Disparate Housewives

Fantastic route. It's amazing to find such a sustained, steep route at this grade. It's a toss-up whether it's 18 or 19. The main line on the pocketed wall. The wall, slightly right through bulge and continue up. In the upper section, climb just right of the bolts between clips. From last bolt to anchors, easiest is straight up from bolt and step back right to anchors, best is up steeper rock on right directly to anchor.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran & Ray Lassman, 2010

Sport 20m, 7
19 The Flatularette

3m R of DH up the pocketed wall and onto the arete and follow this all the way to the anchors of DH

FFA: Matt Brooks & Tracey Martens, 6 Sep 2018

Sport 25m, 8
19 The Young And The Wrestlers

More steep pocket-pulling leads to a finish crack.

Start: Just right of "Disparate Housewives"

FA: Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 20 Mar 2011

Sport 25m, 10
21 Hysteria Lane

Great, varied climbing that keeps you going right to the end. The start stays wet for a long time, in fact it hasn't been dry yet. Grade is a toss-up, 20 or 21.

11 bolts (not 10 as per guidebook.)

FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 29 Dec 2010

Sport 25m, 11
24 Fumbles Route

Start on 'Hysteria Lane' and traverse across to 'Widow of Opportunity'

Sport 18m
17 Widow Of Opportunity

Great start on pockets leads to nice arete and exciting finish. A satisfying pitch. The hangers work loose with frequent ascents so taking a shifting spanner in to tighten them after an ascent is worthwhile.

Start from ledge 2m above ground level, right of Hysteria Lane.

Bridge up to first bolt then traverse left. At 3rd bolt, go up until the arete is gained and followed.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, 2010

Sport 25m, 10
23 Barefoot and Poignant

Now completely superseded.

FA: Alex Trnovsky & Hobbsy, 17 Sep 2011

Sport 20m, 10
23 Fairy Footsteps

Now finishes where climbs should. Start in the same place as 'Widow of Opportunity'. Follow the crack line straight up and continue up the wall when it fades. From the double rings head up and right past two more bolts to the anchors in the alcove.

FA: Alex Trnovsky & Andrew Clements, Mar 2016

Sport 28m, 12

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