Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Eureka Area Weirs Creek West Side | |||||
19 | ★ 3 minute rule
Good warm up. Undercut start (as for Pump Action and Silencer), up short RH corner to horizontal break, up wall on thin holds (crux) to jugs and lower off just left of arete FA: Steve Holloway & Amanda Holloway, 21 Sep 2014 | 15m, 8 | |||
Eureka Area Weirs Creek | |||||
19 | ★★ Disparate Housewives
Fantastic route. It's amazing to find such a sustained, steep route at this grade. It's a toss-up whether it's 18 or 19. The main line on the pocketed wall. The wall, slightly right through bulge and continue up. In the upper section, climb just right of the bolts between clips. From last bolt to anchors, easiest is straight up from bolt and step back right to anchors, best is up steeper rock on right directly to anchor. FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran & Ray Lassman, 2010 | 20m, 7 | |||
19 | ★ The Flatularette
3m R of DH up the pocketed wall and onto the arete and follow this all the way to the anchors of DH FFA: Matt Brooks & Tracey Martens, 6 Sep 2018 | 25m, 8 | |||
19 | ★★ The Young And The Wrestlers
Start: Scramble up to orange ledge (bolt) Crank through pockets, clipping the bolt in the pocket. Finish up crack. FA: Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 2011 | 25m, 10 | |||
Eureka Area Gondwanaland | |||||
19 | Gibber
Start at the right leading ramp left of the prow. Up ramp easily then left. Up vertical wall on pockets, then easier climbing to crack system up headwall, finishing up overhanging crack. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1990 | 45m | |||
19 | Green Room
Leftwards leading easy pocketed corner just left 'Wild Iris'. At top of corner place wires in thin crack then swing out right desperately onto arete and easily up this to natural; belay stance. Another pitch above on super jugs leads to top and walk off. Needs a lower-off. FA: Steve Holloway, Nina Cullen & Amanda Cole, 2003 | 35m | |||
19 | ★★ Picking Plums
Starts 30m left of 'Wild Iris'. In the middle of the wall is several cracklines; this climbs the furthest right one, approx in the middle of the wall. Absorbing rounded holds and the steep angle keep you guessing right until the end. The gear is abundant but fiddly in shallow, scoopy cracks. Rap anchor. FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002 | 17m | |||
Eureka Area The Lost World | |||||
19 | ★★ Toucan
Rivals 'Roraima' as an instant classic.Takes the wall topped by a jutting triangular roof which underpins a hanging headwall.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Tim Lockwood (alt), 2003 | 60m, 2 | |||
19 | ★ Roraima Rob's Variant
Rightward horizontal break FFA: Rob Oliver & Malcolm MAtheson, 2011 | ||||
19 | ★★ Raiders of the Lost Ark
Quite a moderate route for such an enormous buttress, with only a few hard moves and plenty of gear. Take plenty of nuts and slings; but leave your micro and large cams behind!
FA: Goshen Watts & michael mcnamara, 14 Jul 2018 | 85m, 2 | |||
19 | Velociraptor
Takes the left hand of two water streaks up toward the top left of the Go-Between wall. Starts about 20-25m up The Go-Between, immediately below the left hand of the two prominent water streaks. Climb the water streak to the little roofline and the jugs beyond to the top. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Malcolm Matheson, Mar 2016 | 25m | |||
Mt Fox Area Jungle Gym | |||||
19 | ★★ Storm In A D-Cup
The attractive crack 15 metres right of "Suspended Animation". FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Simon Mentz & Ian Ravenscroft, 1989 | 28m | |||
19 | ★ Geoffs Arete A
FA: Geoff Butcher | 20m | |||
19 | The Bounty Hunter
Apparently cool gritstone climbing. Haven't been able to find a description so location is guesswork. FA: Geoff Butcher, 2001 | 20m, 1 | |||
Mt Fox Area Generation Gap | |||||
19 | ★ Baltic City
Head up right to a bush, up thin crack, left along break to a bolt, then straight up past another bolt and the left edge of the crater. Start: Start about 20 metres left of "Tilting At Windmills" on large boulders, below a crater high on the wall. FA: James & Melanie McIntosh, 1992 | 50m, 2 | |||
Mt Fox Area Wall Of The West Wind | |||||
19 | Gone With The Wind
Steep, sustained and pumpy on the hard section, with a few suspect little flakes to pull on. From the L end of the wall, climb the juggy grey crack behind the conifer to a broken area. Take the distinctive thin orange diagonal up R and then up. Exit R at the summit overhang. FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1988 | 30m | |||
Mt Fox Area Emu Rock | |||||
19 | ★★ Sahara Direct Finish
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Mt Fox Area Hollywood Valley | |||||
19 | Cabochon
A little gem that people walk past on the way to 'Hollywood Bowl'. FA: James McIntosh, 1990 | 10m | |||
Mt Fox Area Cub Wall | |||||
19 | ★ Yesterday's Heroes
The superb thin crack snaking up the left side of the wall. FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Maureen Gallagher & Geoff Little, 1987 | 20m | |||
Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering 20th Century Blocks | |||||
V1 | Wilderness
| 5m | |||
V1 | King Kong
| ||||
V1 | ★ Tabloid Jugs
Highball left of Fast Forward. Watch out for the tree. | 7m | |||
V1 | Shoulder Shrugs
| 4m | |||
V1 | Pyramids of Giza
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V1 | Bride of Frankenstein
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V1 | Damsel in Distress
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V1 | The Big Sleep
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V1 | Duck Soup
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V1 | World Premier
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V1 | Tom Cruise
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V1 | ★★ Glory
| 5m | |||
Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders Cruising Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Crusing
Sit start to the right of Stormy Weather. Straight up on jugs to tricky mantle. FA: Dick Lodge, 8 Oct 2014 | ||||
Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders Therapy Boulder | |||||
V1 | Lessons in mantling
50m before Therapy boulder right of the track, sit start then mantle onto slab. FA: Dick Lodge, 8 Oct 2014 | ||||
Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders Angry Ant Bloc | |||||
V1 | Adam Antium
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Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders Dave and Sophie's Wall | |||||
V1 | Romantic Comedy
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Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders The Philosopher's Stone | |||||
V1 | Half Blood Prince
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Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders Grandpa Boulder | |||||
V1 | Super Soda Pop
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Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders The Stegosaurus Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★★ Stegasaurus Slab
Climb the stegasaurus dishes | 5m | |||
Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders The Writers Block | |||||
V1 | ★★ Rough Draft
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Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders The Mental Block | |||||
V1 | Divine Inspiration
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Mt Fox Area The Lost Pavilion | |||||
19 | ★ Trapped in a corner
FA: Cameron McKenzie & Anita Gowers, 2006 | 45m | |||
Mt Fox Area The Far Pavilion | |||||
19 | ★★ Kava Boy
Supposed to be very good Start: Towards the L end of the main wall is a steep right leaning diagonal crack-line leading up to a prominent hanging buttress, right of a major corner capped by a large roof.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Steve Burke, 1989 | 60m, 3 | |||
19 | Propaganda
FA: Nick Kiraly & Steve Holloway (alt), 2005 | 60m | |||
Red Rock Area Band Of Gypsies | |||||
19 | ★★ Crazy Like a Fox
Reachy moves up unlikely, pocketed face. Short people might want to add a grade or so. Start: Start at right-leading ramp. FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005 | 22m | |||
19 | Flashing Eyes
Blocky Line up left of "Gypsy Swing" with a fiery second pitch.
FA: Micahel Hampton & Sharyn George (alt), 2005 | 36m, 2 | |||
19 | Band Of Thieves
Obvious clean-cut corner-handcrack, easing up after the first several metres. Trend L at the top to rap chain above Gypsy Swing. Might have been done earlier as there was a little white square already in-situ. FA: FRA Tim Marsh, 2003 | 23m | |||
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Espanol Pinnacle | |||||
19 | ★ Ich Spreche Nicht Deutsches
Short steep crack. On the north side of the pillar are two right leading lines. This one climbs the right one. When the crack runs out reach up to horizontal, then step right and up juggy groove to top. Rap off anchors above Je Ne Parle Pas Francais. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 10m | |||
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Vertebrae Pinnacle | |||||
19 | ★ Vertabrae
A great novelty warm-up. The route climbs the 'backbone' scoopy arete of the uphill side of the pillar past four FH's. Getting past the ever growing tree could be the crux! Rap off double rings. FA: Neil Monteith | 15m | |||
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles South Pinnacle | |||||
19 | ★ The Propaganda Machine
Starts 3m right of 'Red Ragging' on south face of southern pinnacle. Up and left on orange rock with no gear to left leading small crack through bulge at 5m. Stem through bulge and swing out left to meet up with 'Red Ragging'. Follow it for a few metres then head diagonally right aiming for the prominent left leaning orange corner. Up corner using jugs on big hollow sounding block to finish with bouldery left traverse to ledge. FA: Neil Monteith | 35m | |||
19/20 | ★★ Conflicting Vengeance (Linkup)
Links the start of 'Conflict of Interest' into the excellent juggy finish of 'Full Metal Vengeance'. Cross over at COI's third bolt. FA: Neil Monteith, 2005 | 30m | |||
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Back Wall | |||||
19 | ★ Anniversary Equation
Arete / face downhill from Bikini Bootcamp. Start up RH side of slabby grey rib (as for Gimli) to base of undercut arete, up arete / wall past 3 x FH to lower off FA: Steve Holloway & Amanda Holloway, 24 Apr 2014 | 12m, 4 | |||
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Marianas Trench | |||||
19 | ★★ Used Platypus Condom
Steep pumpy jug hauling on orange rock. Located on upper wall deep inside chasm. Two RB's to start then medium gear to DRB lower off. FA: Neil Monteith | 16m | |||
Red Rock Area Crag X | |||||
19 | ★ Hard Love Cowboys
A shameless linkup. Climb past the first two bolts of Econo-babble, then step right onto the face and climb past three more bolts to the anchors. FA: Andrew 'my love is hard' Clements & Alex Trnovsky, Jul 2016 | 18m, 5 | |||
V1 | ★★ Black Jack
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V1 | Sumba
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V1 | ★★ Mr Grace
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V1 | ★ Grabbing at Stars
| ||||
V1 | Neighbours in Space (s)
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V1 | Another Planet (s)
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V1 | Heavens Above
| 6m | |||
V1 | ★ Shopping Trolley
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V1 | Price Check (s)
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V1 | Police Station (s)
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Red Rock Area Scoop Rocks | |||||
19 | Chemical Addiction
Located on southern side of small boulder [The 'Small' Block] which is at eastern end of 'The Prow'. Stickclip FH at 4m. Jump for good holds in middle of the small block (or delicately up just R). Up and R of FH, past R side of rooflet. Tending L past this with good wires to top. Natural belay. Walk off. | 8m, 1 | |||
Red Rock Area The Grandstand | |||||
19 | ★★ Second Place
Variant start to the first pitch of FPTP. Starts up L arete, then R into thin crack. Where crack ends, balance R into FPTP and up. Great climbing. FA: Goshen Watts & Chris Leidy, 29 Nov 2015 | 40m | |||
19 | ★ First Past The Post
The first main line on the left.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Monks, 1989 | 45m, 2 | |||
Buandik Area Buandik Bouldering Made It Area | |||||
V1 | ★ Dragon Whisper
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V1 | Slab Monster
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V1 | Perfect Crime Sit
Couple of fun moves up into PC and as high as you’re happy with. | ||||
V1 | Zwergrtod
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V1 | Nathaniel Hornblower
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Buandik Area Buandik Bouldering Got Lost Valley | |||||
V1 | The Downclimb
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V1 | Millipede
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Buandik Area Mother Buttress | |||||
19 | ★ Split Decision
Excellent wall climbing. Starts 5m left of I Need My Mother on south facing wall of Mother Buttress. Easily up for five metres to horizontal. Clip BR and layback up little reachy flake to gain line. Weave up jugs, flakes and cracks past a further two BRs and lots of good wire placements to slabby top-out. Rap off double U-bolts on ledge (25m). FA: Neil Monteith Kent Paterson, 2005 | 25m | |||
19 | ★ Early Riser
Neil had this cleaned and bolted before anyone else got out of bed. A slightly easier trad finish to Blunted Enthusiasm. After the second UB take the left line (RB) to thin crack. Finish up well protected wall about 2m left of Blunted Enthusiasm. Rap from anchor on ledge above Split Decision. FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2005 | 25m | |||
19 | High In The Saddle
Short compact wall above conifer and just right of big chimney. Step right just below top. FA: Stuart Imer & Stephen Hamilton, 1992 | 12m | |||
Buandik Area The Lego Blocks | |||||
19 | La Vie En Rose
| 15m | |||
19 | Don't Make My Fat Wobble
| 10m | |||
Buandik Area The Sheltered Workshop | |||||
19 | Secret Squirrels
From platform at foot of east face, step onto face and scurry rightwards to juggy bulge. Up weakness. FA: Edwin Young, Michael Bodsworth & Peter Campbell, 1993 | 12m | |||
Buandik Area Quartz Block | |||||
19 | Killdozer Diagonal
Left-leaning diagonal 3 metres right of Dark Caravan. Up to ledge , then bulge and line. FA: Geoff Butcher & Chris Lawrence, 1991 | 35m | |||
19 | Cave Clan
Wall 2 metres right of Portrait Of An Urban Badger. Up left to cave. Exit right, up. FA: 1992 | 19m | |||
Buandik Area Rain Wall | |||||
19 | She Moves In Mysterious Ways
Steeply up left of arete left of Plain English. Go right around arete at 6 metres and up. FA: Stephen Hamilton & Lisa Imer, 1992 | 17m | |||
Buandik Area Cultivation Crag | |||||
19 | Pigs
Right around arete from chimney at left end of block closest to creek. Up just right of arete. FA: Michael Hampton & Jamie Serle, 1991 | 18m | |||
Buandik Area Closed Millennium Caves | |||||
19 | Chapped Lips
Nice. Follow the same line as 'Blabber Mouth' until it steepens then move diagonally left to finish. FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993 | 14m | |||
19 | Blabber Mouth
take the obvious central line to where it steepens, with a hard move near the top. FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993 | 12m | |||
Buandik Area Goat Track Pygmy Terrace | |||||
19 R | Not Chewing Gum
Poor protection. Corner, bulge, wall 1 metre right of 'Triangle Fridge'. FA: Geoff Butcher, 1991 | 14m | |||
Buandik Area Goat Track The Mall | |||||
19 | Arbitrary Opening
About 100 metres northwest of, and visible from the Mall is an attractive overhanging orange wall. The obvious crack at the lower end of the cliff.
FA: Robin Holmes & Dayle Gilliat, 2000 | 28m | |||
Buandik Area Victoria Range Road Family Wall | |||||
19 | Eats Dogs And Children
Unpleasant climbing. Start on left side of rib left of the cave. Up rib and veer right via a small roof. FA: Melanie & James McIntosh, 1991 | 35m | |||
Buandik Area Victoria Range Road Roadside Arete Boulders | |||||
19 | Roadside Arete
Follow the roadside arete on the left boulder and finish up a hand crack on the right. FA: James & Melanie McIntosh, 1991 | 10m | |||
Buandik Area Closed Billywing Buttress Green Gully Area | |||||
19 | Please Shut Up
Start up "Shut The Fuck Up!" but continue up the steep arete on fantastic holds. FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993 | 18m | |||
Buandik Area Closed Billywing Buttress The Wall Of Deceit | |||||
19 | Walking Under Strictest Secrecy
Start a few metres right of the chossy black off-width. Climb the orange wall to weakness in the dark rock above. Belay at ledge a few metres higher. Downclimb back of buttress into gully. FA: Peter Campbell, Stuart Imer & Michael Hampton, 1993 | 18m | |||
Buandik Area Closed Billywing Buttress Warlu Buttreszs | |||||
19 | The Hot Spot
The righthand crack surrenders to some good old-fashioned hand jamming. Avoid the temptation to step left at half-height. FA: Robin Holmes & Michael Hampton, 2001 | 20m | |||
Buandik Area The Tower | |||||
19 | ★ Olive Oyl
The easy option when everything else is too hard! Nice jug hauling spoilt by a dirty halfway ledge. Starts about 80m right of Popeyed and in centre of south facing wall on a separate buttress behind 'Wellington Wimpy'. Up left facing flake to vegetated ledge. Swing up overhung wall above trending left to bollard belay. FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt, 2003 | 20m | |||
Buandik Area The Tower Bouldering Tower Proper 9.1 Boulder | |||||
V1 | One Move Wonder
| 3m | |||
Buandik Area Possum Rocks | |||||
V1 | Ka-prow
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Buandik Area The Catacombs | |||||
19 | ★ Stakes And Ladders
Weaves around to get up this pleasant wall. Starts 20m left of Wrapped In Pain, just left of scungy looking chimney slot thing. Heave over initial bulge, scuttle left then up mossy rounded face to gain horizontal. Traverse left a few metres then up right trending corner flake. When this runs out climb right (only obvious holds!) and up juggy face to finish. Full rack required + additional slings. FA: adam demmert, Cath & Neil, 2007 | 20m | |||
Mt Thackeray Party Wall | |||||
19 | Looking For A Route
Start on wall right of the corner. Up through the bulge to the weakness, then the left crack to the top. FA: Gary Wills & Peter Megens, 1990 | 20m | |||
Mt Thackeray The Magic Mountain | |||||
19 | He Reviewed The Human Species As He Floated In Its Faeces
Start: Start at a distinct off-width corner about 20 metres left of "Arrival"
FA: james Falla, Ant (alt) & Jon Muir, 1991 | 50m, 2 | |||
19 | A Word Too Much
Sustained wall to base of left-facing corner. Up corner to loose ledge on right. Climb a thin crack to a wide crack and go up past a couple of blockages to abseil tree. Start: Start on the right side of the gully left of the orange wall and stinking cave at the line left of a major, cruddy corner. FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 1991 | 40m | |||
Mt Thackeray Crystal Palace Banksia Wall | |||||
19 | I'm Not Upset
| 68m |