Routes in Victoria Range for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 217 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Eureka Area Spanish Galleon
23 Pirate Life

Crack and right arete. Start just right of Four on the Floor, up pocket crack to good stance on 'nose' of arete. Sail up arete on slopers and side pulls, step left at last bolt (crux), then back right to lower off NOTE (July 2016) - 2 x incorrectly placed / additional bolts on arete will be removed

Set by Steve Holloway

FA: Steve Holloway & K.J. Whitt, 27 Mar 2016

Sport 26m, 9
Eureka Area Eureka Wall
23 Diminishing Returns (Top Half)

Start as for Darwin's Theory for 10m then blast straight up orange wall past very spaced bolts and finish up grey headwall.

FA: Kent Paterson, Apr 2012

Mixed trad 30m, 5
23 Darwin's Theory pitch 3

Natural selection in action: nobody does this.

Start: Start at the rap anchor above Pythagoras' Theorem.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1991

Trad 10m
Eureka Area Clean Cut Walls
23 Sea Within A Sea

The streaked wall right of Highly Evolved. Start up grey slab. WARNING - Be aware of potential ledge fall potential, do not give soft catches

FA: Kent Paterson & Andrew Anderson

Sport 30m, 11
23 Trouble Cut

On Upper Tier. Orange wall left of grey seam. Has chain with krab on second bolt.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2014

Sport 14m, 7
23 Two Birdies

Up crack to cool arete. The crux is cryptic.

Sport 20m, 10
23 Deadly Rhythm

...of the production line. Starts as LP then busts left up prow

FA: Kent Paterson, 2014

Sport 15m, 10
23 Gerbil's Route

Starts on far right hand end of the Upper Tier of Clean Cuts. Great flake line that faces Eureka.WARNING : Belayer and climber please pay close attention to nearby wall, as it gets very close at one point

Sport 20m, 12
Eureka Area The Red Sail
23 Sailing Away

The spectacular right arete.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1991

Mixed trad 45m, 3
Eureka Area Weirs Creek West Side
23 Pump Action

Stick clip first bolt. Undercut start (as for Silencer and 3 minute Rule), up RH short corner for a few moves, then out left on small holds along horizontal break between 3rd and 4th bolt, hard move up to short right leaning flake (crux). Up wall trending left at top to join Me and My Gun for last bolt and lower off. Best to use long draws for third and fourth bolts.

FA: Steve Holloway, Matt Johnston, Z D Rocha & Anthony Pattison, 13 Sep 2014

Sport 20m, 9
Eureka Area Weirs Creek
23 Smoky and the Banditos LHV

Start up 'Smoky and the Banditos' until 4th RB then go left to fixed hangers on arete.

Sport 20m, 9
23 Barefoot and Poignant

Now completely superseded.

FA: Alex Trnovsky & Hobbsy, 17 Sep 2011

Sport 20m, 10
23 Fairy Footsteps

Now finishes where climbs should. Start in the same place as 'Widow of Opportunity'. Follow the crack line straight up and continue up the wall when it fades. From the double rings head up and right past two more bolts to the anchors in the alcove.

FA: Alex Trnovsky & Andrew Clements, Mar 2016

Sport 28m, 12
23 Fairies and Blutterfies

Next line up right of 'Barefoot And Poignant' starting with some beautiful pockets. I think it is general consensus that this is not 24. If you want a 24 version of this climb you have to climb, as the FA, 'the convulted crux out left at mid height while ignoring the obvious line'...Finishes in the little alcove, but can also be climbed to the anchors of LIB for extra contrived mileage.

FA: Alex Trnovsky & Ben Weissner, 2 Feb 2013

Sport 20m, 9
23 Let it Burn!

Right of F&B. Start at base of corner, far right end of wall. Up to bottom of shallow closed corner, move left past single digit pocket, then up shallow pocketed flake system (crux) to jug, leftwards rising traverse on amazing jugs to finish up headwall and lower off

FA: Steve Holloway & Paul Geil

Sport 25m, 9
Eureka Area Closed Gondwanaland
23 Terra Incognita

Dramatic climbing up prow. Up right then left onto wall. Up past BR to short vertical base of the 'Thunder Crack' like line. Up this a few moves then left and up the crazy paving right of the arete to the top.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1990

Trad 50m
Eureka Area The Lost World
23 Malcolm and Andy's New route

2m right of LBL,

  1. 30m 23. Up flake over bulge past bolt, trending left through next bulges past fixed pin to sloping belay ledge.

  2. 10m 22 Straight up past bolt and continue up on horizontal breaks to absail chain. Rap off on a 70m just

FFA: Malcolm Matherson & Andy Schmutter, Nov 2014

Mixed trad 70m, 2, 2
23 Eau Rouge

Flake and steep orange wall right of Redline. 3 FHs and full rack required. Rap chain. Can get down with a 60m rope

FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2009

Mixed trad 32m, 3
23 Lost in Antiquity

Start as for The Land that Time Forgot.

  1. 20m (23) As for TLTTF up to and powerfully over flake, then head up and right to obvious corner and over roof to belay at chains.

  2. 20m (21) Head straight up the wall on fantastic rock with good gear. Great wall climbing in a great position. Rap off

FFA: Malcolm Matheson & Adam Demmert, 31 Aug 2014

Trad 40m, 2
23 Temple of Doom

Takes the major black streak up the headwall left of Indiana Jones, with a very thin crux amongst some amazing moderate climbing on great rock.

Straight up wall left of IJ to follow left leading diagonal line to it's end. Up overhanging wall to grey slab where the holds (and gear) appear to run out. Thin moves (and small wires) lead to relief at the overlap. If you survived the prehistoric birds, jug it out over final roof and up to belay.

FA: Goshen Watts & Dick Lodge, 21 Nov 2015

Trad 50m
Mt Fox Area Jungle Gym
23 Jungle Juice

Climb the flake crack, which rises up to the left, to a rounded, mossy exit.

Start: Start 25 metres right of "Varicose Veins" below a tiny recessed wall with a roof above and a large conifer in front.

FA: Simon Mentz & Ian Ravenscroft, 1989

Trad 8m
23 Hang Me High

Blunt arete with 2 fixed hangers left of "The Bounty Hunter" ? which is where?

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002

Mixed trad 18m, 2
23 Pussy Whipped Wuss

Start in the left-hand corner at the base of the main corner. Move right at overhang into main corner and continue to stance. Now crack in left wall past big block.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Richard Smith, 1993

Trad 32m
Mt Fox Area Generation Gap
23 R Cervantes Wall

Takes the smooth convex wall left of "Don Quixote", starting by the shady gum tree.

  1. 55m (23) Delicately past bolt at 6 metres then step right to good nut. Up and slightly leftward until the climbing eases. Tend rightward up beautiful rock to an incut ledge.

  2. 20m (-) Up thin vertical crack directly above belay, with a slight detour via a flake on the left. Finish via a cave under the summit roof (as led) or straight up the overhanging white cleft (as seconded).

FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks (alt) & Norm Booth, 1992

Mixed trad 55m, 2, 1
Mt Fox Area Muline Crag
23 Pocket Full of Dreams

A beautiful gobsmacking line. The manky old carrots at the start have now been placed with rings. A long stick-clip is required as the crux is the start.

Start: Start 3m R of the base of the rock step separating the upper and lower tiers of the crag.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Malcolm Matheson & Norm Booth, 1991

Mixed trad 25m, 2
23 Nothing Lasts Forever

Short punchy route on left of cave. 'Nowra' like!

FA: Kent Paterson, 2010

Sport 8m
Mt Fox Area Doritos Wall
23 Chinese Knockoff (Link-Up)

Notable as its the easiest sport route up the cliff. Do the first pitch of China Fingers. After this do a run out traverse into the fantastic headwall of Nothing Gets Crossed Out. Be careful of rope length when lowering. Maybe 24?

FA: Kent Paterson, 2018

Sport 50m, 2
Mt Fox Area Hollywood Bowl
23 R Wings of Desire

A high-quality route. Start 15m R of Bubbles of Fantasy. 1) 25m (18) Up large L-facing corner then main wall, passing a small R-facing corner. At its top, step L, then diagonally R to orange sickle. Up jugs and R-facing corner to belay on ledge. 2) 25m (crux) L-facing corner to roof, boldly through this (#3.5 cam at lip), then up and diagonally L to rest on arete (fixed wire). Up, step L and up wall, finishing through bulge on L.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Tim Day (alt), 1991

Trad 55m
23 The Unbelievable Truth

Step up R off block (RPs), then up (BR, FH), to join 'The Pillow Book' at base of crescent. Step R and up R side of arête (BR) to top.

FA: Wade Stevens & Tim Day, 1996

Trad 24m
Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering 20th Century Blocks
V4 Archimedes' Mirror
Boulder 5m
V3 Shooting Scoops
Boulder 5m
V4 Extreme Close Up
V3 Tap Dance Solo
V3 Kevin Bacon
Boulder 7m
V3 Charlton Heston
V3 Chuck Norris
V4 Clint Eastwood
Boulder 5m
V4 Constant Gardner

On rear side of Wall of Fame

V3 Life Be In It
Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders Cruising Boulder
V3 Stormy Weather

Stand start to the right of a large dirt pile (ants nest) . Head right to finish up Cruising.

FA: Dick Lodge, 8 Oct 2014

Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders Angry Ant Bloc
V3 Angry Ant...erson

Watch out for those ants.

Boulder 6m
V3 Anty Matter
Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders Dave and Sophie's Wall
V3 Mike's Arete
Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders The Philosopher's Stone
V3 Sophie's Choice
Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders The Writers Block
V4 No Country for Old Man
Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders The Mental Block
V4 Hippo Campus
V3 Believe At Will
V3 Thought Exerpimentation
Boulder 10m
V3 X Men

Low sit start matching horizontal incut rail right of arete/nose of Inclined P (left of tunnel under the Mental Block ledge). Move to very small crimp on lip of bulge then RH to the perfect quartz crimp. Mantle it out via better holds.

V3 Inclined Precranium RHV

IPC start then diagonally right to mantle onto slab

V3 Train of Thought
V3 Bitter Memories
Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Crimson Cave
V4 Simply Red

Climbs the rib line up, then right and up to two good holds just before the diagonal slash.

Mt Fox Area The Far Pavilion
23 Siegeing Babylon

Nice face climbing to gain the central crack. Follow 'Far Horizons' to the 'impending block of doom'. Diagonally left up flakes in middle of wall until holds run out. Move L then up with trepidation to gain horizontal. Easily up central crack to belay on terrace. Roped traverse off R (10m).

FA: Mark Rewi, Steve Holloway & Nicholas Kiraly (a couple of previous attempts succumbed to aid), 2006

Trad 50m
23 The Cold War

Peter Mills and Nic Kiraly raved about this route for almost 2 weeks after repeating it. The words "Awesome", "stunning" and "mindblowing" could be heard repeatedly for the entire night after this ascent. God knows what Steve & Keith's friends had to endure! Needless to say it is sensational and a must do for solid grade 23 leaders, and can be done in one mega-pitch).

  1. 30m Start up the obvious R facing corner in the very centre of the wall (crux), then climb diagonally L up the wall to the start of the arête. Up steeply to stance on L.

  2. 30m, 21. Straight up arête, trending R, then finishing back L at the top.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1989

Trad 60m, 2
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Pellant Pinnacle
23 Sharon's Face (Project)

Needs bolts. Orange face and thin flake.

FA: Top-roped Sharon George, 2004

Trad 8m
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Espanol Pinnacle
23 Je Ne Parle Pas Français

Technical slabby crimpers. Starts 3m left of 'No Habla Espanol'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

Sport 14m
23 Non Parlo Italiano

Short intense fun on great quality rock. Starts 3m left of 'Ich Spreche Nicht Deutsches', just left of small tree.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

Trad 10m
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Vertebrae Pinnacle
23 Get What You Paid For

Starts 2m left of Vertebrae. Pumpy underclings and nigh all footholds keep the juices flowing in the forearms. An interesting assortment of bolting technology adorns this climb. Five FH's and a u-bolt loweroff. A large wire could be useful between bolts one and two.

FA: Neil Monteith Adam Demmert, 2004

Sport 15m
23 Sweat of Effort

Prominent leftwards leaning line on west facing wall 30m south of the Vertebrae Pinnacle. Bulgy 'Arapiles' style rock. Awkward slabby closed corner to start then pumpy traversing to finish. Good gear but needs a bit of a clean.

FA: Malcolm Matheson Neil Monteith, 2004

Trad 20m
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Kentucky Block
23 Monkey Punch

Start 3m right of Spanish Sahara. Start from ground off large boulders, hard moves up and over bulge then up face using right arête and face holds to double ring bolt anchor.

Set by Dick Lodge, 11 Nov 2016

FA: Dick Lodge, 11 Nov 2016

Sport 14m, 4
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles South Pinnacle
23 Red Rock Arete

A fairly good climb, taking the L arete of the main face. Start from a ledge gained by scrambling up the boulder choked gully. Climb a short crack from the R side of the ledge then move back left to the arete and up and slightly right to more cracks leading up to the arete again. Move around left of the arete and up to a ledge (belay possible) to finish up the final, steeply overhanging arete. Double ropes a

must. Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd, Peter Riddy March 89

FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd & Peter Riddy, 1989

Trad 35m
23 Full Metal Vengeance

This one's for 'Justin Thyme'. A long juggy wall climb with a hard roof move down low. Start as for 'Conflict of Interest' on the south face of the southern pillar. At COI's first FH step left to UB and power through awkward roof and vague finger crack to stance. Up with a slight right trend past five further UB's to the same anchor as COI. Beware the runout just before the anchor. Some medium wires could be useful if you aren't feeling bold.

FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schimdt, 2005

Sport 26m, 6
23 Fat Fingered Freak

Pumpy with some novelty moves. Located 10m right of Conflict Of Interest in shaded chasm. Bouldery steep short corner (stickclip RB) to ledge. Step right then up left facing flake system (three RBs) to rap chain. Last bolt was added after first ascent.

FA: Nick McKinnon

Sport 18m, 4
23 Variance

One of the best routes here but requires trad and bolt plates so not hugely popular. Varied climbing! Starts 5m right of 'Fat Fingered Freak'. Stick clip RB from block. Jump for jug and mantle onto ledge. Clip BR and step right then trend back left along sloping orange edge (BR) to under cracked bulge. Pull through this strenuously protected by wires to jug at base of small corner. Clip BR; stem into corner for a few moves then reach out left to escape hold that leads to jugs and top. Single u-bolt lower-off WARNING - single clip and go anchor could be unsafe - please thread direct through Ubolt rather than using the biner. Single set of wires and a finger size cam is the only trad gear required.

FA: Neil Monteith

Mixed trad 18m, 4
23 One Ring to Bind Them

The overhung knifeblade arete about 5m right of 'Variance'. Surprisingly pumpy and sustained. Stickclip RB for bouldery start then hang on for the ride up fragile sharp pockets and flakes past a BR and three UBs. This used to be mostly trad but was subsequently retroed to make it actually enjoyable. It was even solo-aided on trad by Neil as a means to get to the summit! WARNING - single clip-and-go lower off biner should not be used. Please thread directly through u-bolt. These biners can snap at very low weights.

FA: Neil Monteith

Sport 15m, 4
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Marianas Trench
23 Spinal Tap

Would be a three star megaclassic if it wasn't tucked away in this gully. 4m right of 'Wave of Mutilation'. Chimney up the start to the first FH. Flakes, pockets and heucos lead up steep orange wall past eight FHs. Watch the lurking block behind you between the fourth and sixth bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith

Sport 20m
Red Rock Area Crag X
23 Solar Flare

Up and right after the 2nd bolt on the "ledge" traverse.

FA: Doug McConnell & Kerrin Gale, 10 May 2015

Sport 18m, 6
23 Misty

An exciting spacey route with great climbing. Start on the steep arete. An exposed traverse past RB leads to a run out and delicate face with natural gear. Climb past a 2nd RB to join Misty Variant, arrange gear and top out. A yellow and green alien are useful to protect the top shallow break.

FA: Benjamin Eichler, 2005

Mixed trad 25m, 2
23 A Visit From The Footbinder

The only slab for miles.

Start on a detached flake 8 metres left of an arête on the large free standing block below the right end of the main cliff.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Jane Wilkinson, Steve Monks & Simon Mentz, 1989

Mixed trad 30m, 1
V3 Chained to the Massess (s)

Sit start on left of roof. Traverse left to right to finish on jug.

V3 Mosquito (S)
V3 Eye Candy (s)

On the north face. The black wall and seam up and right.

V3 Dead Beat Traverse
V4 Point Blank
V4 Kang (s)
V4 Mezzagade
V3 Mary Poppins
V3 Anti Freeze
V3 Sub Zero
V3 The Tardis (S)
V3 Light Speed (s)
V3 MightyMouse (s)
V4 Spontaneous Combustion (s)
V3 AC Joint (s)
V4 Jail Break (s)
V3 Bobet
V3 Acid Jazz
Red Rock Area The Solarium Ballbag Amphitheatre
23 The big honey hunt

Start in the same spot. Once on the ledge continue straight up the juggy groove before launching up the orange wall to shared anchors.

FA: Alex Trnovsky & Bill Begg, 2015

Sport 5
Red Rock Area Scoop Rocks
23 Angry Arborist

Located on north facing wall about 100m west of 'Framed' (The Prow). Traverse up and left along easy wall (cam & RB) to below big heuco. Very reachy (impossible if short!) crux dyno to hecuo and into small cave. Out right and up steep wall to lower off. Six ringbolts.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003

Sport 25m
23 Quasimodo's Dream

Steep fun on big holds all the way. Start up 'Hunchback' to tiny stance. Traverse up right on good jugs, then, against your better judgement, straight up overhanging grey wall past FH to sling lower-off point.

FA: Glen Tempest, 1994

Trad 20m
23 Three Legged Dog

Steep pumpy gym style climbing. Adds a hard direct start to Quasimodo's Dream on the Prow. Starts 3m right of 'Hunchback' at protruding wide tufa fin. Up this with difficulty (FH) to large jug. A thin move leads to killer jugs up outstanding orange wall. All bolts and new lower off.

FA: Neil Monteith Malcolm Matheson, 2005

Sport 20m
Red Rock Area Sherpa Rocks
23 Best of Hillwood

Superb rock. Start 5m right of 'Woodys'. 'Flake' crack leads to horizontal break. Seemingly blank and baffling wall (BR) to rounded juggy finish (BR).

Mixed trad 13m, 2
Red Rock Area The Grandstand
23 M1 Sporting Chance

The best line on the cliff, starting just right of "First Past The Post"

  1. 20m (23) Up the corner line, over the awkward bulge and step left to belay

  2. 25m (23 M0) Veer right up the continuing line to the left-hand of two hanging corners. Up the corner with 1 wire for aid.

FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1989

Aid 45m, 2
Buandik Area Buandik Bouldering Made It Area
V4 Instant Classic
V4 Back, Sack, & Crack
Buandik Area Buandik Bouldering Made It Area Shit Carter Area
V3 Shit Carter
V3 Hole Lot of Fun

Immediately opposite 'Grey Slab'. Sit start in the hole, then up via the flake.

Boulder 3m
V3 Grey Area
Buandik Area Buandik Bouldering Made It Area
V3 Heavy Metals

Short overhanging boulder 5m past Cookie Monster. Start low on jugs and follow obvious line left and up.


Showing 1 - 100 out of 217 routes.

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