Pigmy Twilight Gully

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 1

Access issues inherited from Teneriffe

[From former CliffCare website]


Taking care of the environment covers many areas. Many of the locations we climb at have had a previous history of indigenous culture. Some of this may not even be apparent to the untrained eye. Cultural heritage sites such as artwork and caves are a little more obvious, but much exists out there that consists of unobtrusive rock markers, chippings etc. Teneriffe has a long indigenous history and after a recent visit with a concerned resident/historian and two clan elders, discussions took place to try ensure that any cultural activity that has occurred, remains as undisturbed as possible from now on. While no formal restrictions have been put in place, the hope is for no further cairns/rock formations to be created or in turn, dismantled. Much of the climbing in the area now has a quite well marked track to access it. Should it be decided on at a later date that some kind of directional signage is necessary at minimal points, small arrows will be attached to a tree.


Teneriffe Access:

The owner of the property in the saddle area, Jon Day doesn’t mind people accessing the cliff via his property provided that they: · Do not park in front of his gate or on the road(chain across road) · Keep away from the house and livestock. You access the cliffs from Oak Valley Road. The track to Jon’s property is opposite Chalmers’ restaurant. You can follow this to the Y-junction with the saddle area up to the right. Parking at the end of the road is a bit of a problem. Two-wheel drive vehicles may be able to park off the road when it is dry but in the wet you may have park further out and walk in. Also, Peregrines nest on the Magic Block, Jon asks that you don’t climb there from August to early December.

To access all other climbs walk 150 m back along the road towards the Y intersection and use a large rock with a cairn on its top to cross the fence(caution:electric fence) at the step. Walk up the steep hill to saddle/ridge. Follow the saddle/ridge to the left through a break in the fence then walk right around rock and up a track behind it. About 20m further, a central track heads right across the slope. This track meanders northwest for about 1.4km and all other climbs can be accessed from this track. Climbing is not permitted in the Saddle area.

Parking at Sparrow Slabs Anyone who has visited Teneriffe from the Sparrow Slabs end will know that there is little space to park on the narrow access road. Fearing a threat to access that might follow a climbers’ car accidentally blocking the road for a local farmer, the VCC Committee approved spending around $300 for a small road widening exercise. There is now space for 3-4 cars. Please use it, and keep road space for passing traffic.

Restricted Access at Western End Due to private landowners wishing to retain some control over access, they have asked directions not to be widely publicized. Instead you can contact the Access Officer on a few days before you wish to go.


There is no longer any camping available on private land as noted in older guidebooks.


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Grade Route

Up right crack some loose rock, traverse left at break then carefully up corner crack on loose flake and semi detached pillar.

FA: Robin Holmes & Steven Wilson

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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