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Description

This is where most people walk up to the climbing area. It’s the steep narrow gully on the right hand side of the Sports Plus Outcrop, and has shady bits all day. A good place for slack attacks and hangover recoveries.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Go straight up the left side of Dingo Direct instead of weaving across the corner. Then finish on the face.

FA: Kelly Hansen, 1999

Stunning climb, a bolt or a large set of nuts (not the wired kind)and a small brain will see it led one day. Start on the right hand side of the front buttress, right of the obvious corner. Up the face trending right, then up the wall just left of Where Dick Goes Down.

FA: Dave Witter & Co

Much coveted, seldom repeated. Razor sharp flake on at start through overhang to thinish wall. 1 bolt, rest on natural gear

Start at the immediate left of Where Dick Goes Down, up to the immediate right and over the overhang. No use of Where Dick Goes Down or right of it.

FA: Doug Hockley

First line on the LHS of the Sanctuary, named for Richard’s impressive first descent, and remains today as somewhat of a testpeice. Overhanging start with open corner above. If you want to cheat, stick clip the fixed hanger, then grunt, groan and hernia your way to a rest at 5m. Beware of patch of manky water affected choss at mid height. Easily up corner. 1BR

FA: Richard Lawrence, john Fattore & Co

Named after the Ashton’s’ delicious lunch on the day of the FRA. The crack 2m right of Where Dick Goes Down.

Steep, tree roots currently encroaching on crack (2007)

FA: Steve Simmonds & Chris Hart, 1997

Thin sharp face to the right of BB. Straight up face past 1 FH to prominent ledge. Interesting finish up RH arête of top block. 1BRThin...

mixture of bolts and small pro needed.

FA: Diabolical Dr Dave

The line of awesome power 5m right of BB, which had repulsed revolted at least two aspirants before finally succumbing. Take a couple of big cams.

too short

The finger width crack one move right of SS. Short and sweet. Since immortalized by Arullan’s 8 gear placements in 2 metres!

FA: Steve Beyer & Chris Hart

The first impressive offering by this up and coming pair of talented young superstars. A further move right of MM is a wider broken crack which is chimney width initially. Grovel up it to the pile of boulders, and continue up the right hand line above if you can be bothered. Sounds delightful.

FA: Chris Hart & Steve Beyer, 1997

Perfect beginner lead, gear, gear and more gear

The best looking line hereabouts. Follow the left hand line steeply at first. The angle then eases before the final vertical section.

FA: Mike, Jenny Ashton... & lil Steve too, 1997

Start half a move right of SH. Easily up into the chimney, then grovel through the slot leaving behind as little skin as possible. A No. 4 Camelot (or similar humungous SLCD) at the back of the slot protects it nicely. Don’t even breathe on the horrendously loose horizontal flake!

FA: Mike Ashton, Jenny Ashton & Steve Beyer, 1997

The name gives it away. Good safe and well protected beginners lead.

Up the front of the buttress on the RHS of the Sanctuary entrance, opposite Where Dick Goes Down. Go up the short corner on the right of the summit roof. Grade 15 if you go straight up the initial unprotected overhang.

FA: Paul Francis, Mike & Jenny Ashton, 1997

Nice direct finish to rambler. Up the initial unprotected overhang and straight up through the top overhang. Done in Hiking boots originally.

FA: Kevin Petley & Jenni Purdie, 1998

Nice climb, needs one very small (very) cam

Face between Rambler and Coupla More Hectapascals. Start from small tree up onto largish vegetated ledge, then up through lovely short slabby face and over small roof to top. Watch the loose block just before toe top. A good climb.

FA: Steve Beyer

Corner to the right of Rambler

FA: Steve Beyer & Kevin Pettley, 1997

Left and right variants exist at about same grade

Starts left of Ficus. Climb straight up left of Ficus, traverse right below bulge, up and over to finish.

FA: Allan Caldwell & John Fattore

Thin and balancy face with three bolts to crack with natural pro finish

Smooth red face just right of Pot Belly. Delicate and fingery moves straight up the face past 3 FH’s . Easier through bulge to top (SLCD’s). 3BR, 1 fixed SLCD.

FA: John Fattore, dave Witter & David Shepherd

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Activity

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