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Access: Access

Currently the crag is not accessible from the gas station as the land owners are not happy to allow access.

Please do not contact them until local climbers can sort out issues.

See warning details and discuss

Created 22 days ago

Seasonality

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Summary

Shade, Sport Climbing, Easy Access

Description

Vertical to slightly overhanging sports climbing in a shady gully.

Access issues

Warning.

Currently the crag is not accessible from the gas station as the land owners are not happy to allow access.

Please do not contact them until local climbers can sort out issues.

Approach

Drive down to the camp ground and follow the track that goes straight past the horse paddock and down to the creek. 2WD or Low clearance 4wds park near the creek, cross creek and follow edge of ridge South-West on obvious trail for 10 mins.

Where to stay

Hayes Creek Wayside Inn offers great camping, aircon rooms, pool, Pub and decent food. Always pays to support them.

Ethic

Sports Climbing. No retrobolting.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Good slabing with a sting in the tail, 4 carrots and one br.

Traverse the ramp.

Line of carrots and fhs to the right of frangipani.

Take the ramp and follow the chalk, glory jugging on an overhung wall. Alternate start to ramp, climb bougainvillaes start at the same grade.

Follow line of fhs, reachy crux and pumpy finish.

FA: Matthes Kerkmann

Pumpy with a staunch crux.

Line of camo rbs, thin cruxs with sustained climbing the whole way.

Break left at 'Barramundi Dreamings's' 5th bolt and follow 3 U-bolts to anchor

FA: Jason McCarthy, 14 Jun 2014

Glory jugging, follow fhs.

Great route, sustained and great quality.

Tricky crux through strange ramp, great climb at the grade.

There are two options to finish this climb. Right of the fig tree or continue up left of the tree through dirty rock past one carrot and possibly two rings. The left option is rarely climbed.

Solid featured rock with a little bit of everything.

Set: Cal, 2 Dec 2018

FFA: Cal, 15 Dec 2018

Battle the bulge Big moves across the steepest face in the gully finish off with a crimpy traverse.

FFA: Cal

Set: Cal, 2 Dec 2018

Warning Rock: Falling rocks

Stellar climbing takes the left line up this gently overhanging wall. Sustained and bomber rock.

FA: Matthes Kerkmann

There are some nice technical transition sequences that would make an onsite ascent of this climb feel about a grade harder.

FA: Mark Schultz

Next to cave

Another climb bolted with Fixe wedge bolts in soft rock. RECOMMENDED TO NOT BE CLIMBED

Great short technical climb, starts right of ride my ramp.

FA: Col Reese & Andy, 2009

Technical left hand traversing line of fhs. Great sequences.

FA: Matthes Kerkmann

Up first two FH's of 'Linkshander' then over bulge, trends left to ledge then right and up to anchors. Very thin and sequency

Set: Jason McCarthy & Jenna Brady, Aug 2012

FFA: Jason McCarthy, 21 Oct 2012

FA: 21 Oct 2012

The scary stemming corner, dodgy pro and rock. Not for the faint hearted.

FFA: Cal, 7 Oct 2018

Beginners and kiddies adventure climb with an interesting 5th bolt

Set: Adam

FFA: Adam & Chris Jokinen, Jan 2019

Best warm up and beginner climb, 3 carrots and one br.

Great alt start to Vegemite, 3 carrots one fh.

A couple of harder moves at the second and fifth bolt due to smallish footholds, the rest steady and enjoyable. Can be a bit sandy as all routes on this wall.

FA: Andreas, 26 Aug 2016

Follow line of 4 carrots one br, shares anchor with dynamite.

3m left of 'Black Betty'

Note: small cams

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