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Short Sharp Loud Wall

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Summary

Excellent protection and the ideal crag for beginners wanting to learn how to lead climb.

Description

Small cliffs around 6-10m in height so don't expect any soaring lines. Good rock which have some bouldery routes for the grades. The biggest bonus is it's shady in the afternoon giving Mt Kuri-ng-gai a summer afternoon option as it's east facing with tree coverage. Climbs described right to left on approach to the crag.

Access issues

The access trail from the dirt bike gate follows the motocross trail so use extreme caution when the bikes are racing and stay off the track when in use.

Approach

20-30 mins from car park. Walk along fire trail until you reach the dirt bike track gate, then head right into the bush along fence line. Follow dirt bike trail for 355m until you reach the spur where the dirt bike track turns off to the left. There's a tall slim cairn here on the right marking the entry point into the bush at approximately (-33.6286, 151.1267). From here hike East for about 300m, heading down the spur following the cairns, then across the small open field to steep, small cliffs. Reach the bottom of the cliff and head right for about 50m to crag.

Routes

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Grade Route

Up the obvious wide crack to anchors of 'Victory Beers'.

FA: Adrian Kladnig, 17 Oct 2015

Up right side of face to anchors

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 29 Sep 2014

Up middle of first wall, harder than it looks

FFA: Rod Wills, 28 Sep 2014

The next climbs are on a detached block about 10m to the left of 'La Mer'.

Right side of block just left of mossy streak. Tricky start getting easier the higher you go.

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 28 Sep 2014

Start in middle of face, up onto small knee high ledge right of evident scoop and left of first bolt.

FFA: Rod Wills, 28 Sep 2014

2m Lt of H, bouldery start up short technical face.

FFA: Rod Wills, 13 Sep 2015

2nd most left route on detached bolder.

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 15 Sep 2014

Left most route on detached boulder, using arete and face.

FFA: Jordan Mansfield, 5 Oct 2014

Back to the main wall.

The corner crack behind the detached boulder. Up corner to ledge, then right and up, taking care with the loose stuff.

FA: Colin Larter, Jul 2015

The crack in the middle of the wall. Step left on ledge to anchors for "Sweet 'n Tasty".

FA: Colin Larter, Jun 2015

1m left of 'Asgaeirr'. Straight up middle of techy slab.

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 10 Aug 2014

1m left of "Sweet 'n Tasty". Up and over obvious angled corner feature to shared anchors.

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 10 Aug 2014

Traverse left along low angled feature onto arete and up to shared anchors, can go straight up as well from below first bolt @ the same grade.

FFA: Rod Wills, 6 Jul 2014

The next climbs are on a wall 10m past 'Ruiner'.

It might be short but it is stout, straight up blunt arete.

2m lt of Project - Rod 1, up thin face to anchors.

These climbs start a further 20m left.

Up right side of slab, mantle to shared anchors

FFA: Rod Wills, 13 Jul 2014

1m left of ZS. Up middle of slab tending right up blunt flake & mantle to shared anchors

FFA: David Filan, 13 Jul 2014

2m left of FOJ, straight up blunt arete

FFA: Ian Reynolds, 28 Sep 2014

Up face past couple of big pockets to victory jug. Caution! Hollow rock between first and bolts.

FFA: Rod Wills, 5 Oct 2014

Up left leaning crack onto flake and up.

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