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Druggie's Alley, Impossible Princess and Ain't No Easy Win

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Description

This part of Jurassic is it's most adventurous, the problems are generally very high (6m), rarely ascended and the landings crap. With very few exceptions this is not the place to acclimatise yourself with the area. Almost all of the problems here follow proud natural lines, the likes of which are very rare for Sydney.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Routes

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Grade Route

This is the obvious long narrow high corridor with the corner crack at the back (Red Light Special). None of the problems have proper landings, Low down, escape can be had by bridging out to the opposite wall - higher up you're on your own. Because of the lack of a proper base, movement in the alley is best done by bridging sideways to the start of your chosen problem.

Climb the left leaning arete (RH entrance to the alley).

The obvious corner at the back of the alley.

A desperate, sustained struggle - and thats just to gain the start. At the back of Druggie's Alley is a beautiful arete. Start with your feet on the obvious footholds about 1m above the mire (sit start is still a project).

Up the wall via the flake. Low technical crux, high emotional crux.

Follow the very thin seam just right of the arete. Friable edges and a bad landing.

This very large (6m+) boulder is home to some great 'line' bouldering.

The beautiful imposing orange arete.

Gripped climbing with no safety net.

The deep corner that all too easily becomes totally desperate. A true mettle tester.

The splitter crack in the arete.

Grab the big undercling at the base of the orange over hanging buttress, then follow the good holds up its left hand side.

Carefully climb the short corner. Bad landing.

Comforting words indeed, yet this was actually said just as the first ascensionist was sketching his way through the high moves of this trouser filler. Off the ledge climb the left side of the arete until a line of fair edges at 4m, then move more easily and more scarily off rightwards. Very bad landing.

THE line, THE classic. The sort of problem you dream about. Rarely does a hard problem involve truly classic climbing - here is a genuine exception. Despite the landing and the high level of commitment necessary, Ain't No Easy Win is actually out of character for Jurassic - the rock is solid and with experienced spotters it is even relatively safe. Follow the sickle shaper finger tip overlap up the overhanging orange streak. Funky, powerful, continuous, desperate, awesome. A truly world class problem.

Tyrone Clements

Orlanda

FA: Jason Whitton

A desperate overhanging arete. Battle the barn door to the bellyflop top.

FA: Neil Wallace

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