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Summary

A classic range of boulders, ranging from V0 to V10.

Description

With the serenity of teenage hoons driving their modified Honda Civics just metres away, The Orphanage is a great place to chill out with the whole family. This area boasts a range of classic boulders to cater for all ability levels. There are some classic slabs, roofs, overhang and highball boulders to stain your pants, and stain the shirt of your spotter.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Park anywhere near the safety camera at the Hornsby Heights entry to Galston Gorge. Take the obvious fire trail for about 500 metres. Head left at the powerpoles and take another left before the track veers sharp right.

Where to stay

Gav has a beaut shed you can sleep in. Just give him a ring and bring some goon. 0425385668.

Ethic

Make sure you take your rubbish with you and leave the area sparkling clean or Gav will give ya a good ol' smackin'.

Small tick marks are acceptable. Chipping or any manipulation of the rock will result in death and dismemberment.

History

History timeline chart

Some of this area was developed in 2012 by a local climber, however, most of the boulders remained untouched until 2015. Local self-proclaimed legends John "Big tits" Bignold and Jarred Jordan ticked and graded most of the boulders in 2015 and 2016.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Start at low jugs, traverse left for about a 1m.

FA: Meedu Samaraweera, 31 Jan 2017

Daughter Issues, direct left variant.

Follow 'Daughter Issues', but continue left to finish around the corner of the boulder. PROJECT v9-11

Sit start not necessary. This is a high ball. Take plenty of mats and spotters. Top mantle is very spicy. The bottom can get wet after rain.

Start as for Projectile Pooping and exit right. Still a project, top rope would be advised.

Punch from the sit start up to the two slopers. Take a grade off without the sit start. Top out.

FA: Jarred Jordan, 2015

Stand start variant of 'Tight Crack'.

FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, 26 Sep 2016

Stand start, two finger pocket and tiny crimp. Head left, arete is out. Top out however you can.

FA: Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016

Sit start, between two boulders and move up the crack and top out slightly to the right. (Sidewall in)

FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016

Start left hand side, move up the arete and then make a big span to the right. Top out.

FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016

Squat start, aretes in, couple crimps on the left and use large pockets to reach the sketchy top out.

FA: Jarred Jordan & John Bignold, Sep 2016

Sit start on arete, bump up to large jug on the right, scramble to top out. (side wall out)

FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016

Squat start at jug, mantle for top out.

FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016

Sit start at the side pulls, move up to jug and then mantle on the left hand side.

FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016

Start at the shallow pockets, move up to the wide rail. Than a large move to the top out holds.

FA: John Bignold & Meedu Samaraweera, 31 Jan 2017

Sit start at the side pulls, move up to jug, veer right to mantle top out.

FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016

Sit start at scratched nipple, follow crimp rail to the right avoiding big jug, top out with nice holds above the plant.

Side start, move up jugs mantle to top out.

FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016

Stand up, traverse across crimps, top out at "Mums a Lesbian". (+1 grade if you do it without pants)

FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016

Start start, follow up the crack, mantle top out.

FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016

Stand start, small crimp on left and jump to the top, mantle top out. (arete out)

FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016

Start on the Arrete, head up the face left of the arrete. Theres a hidden crimp.

Sit start at the shallow rail, crimp on the right, crimps on top, mantle top out.

FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016

Start start, move up left rail, jugs high on the right, top out.

FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016

Sit start on crimps, head straight up, then move up the rail to mantle top out.

Stand start at obvious jug, move up to lip and traverse across. 'CARE BAD LANDING'

FA: Meedu Samaraweera, 31 Jan 2017

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