Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Galston Gorge The Orphanage Right Side | |||||
V0 | ★ Bountiful Baskets
Start at crack, then up and over. FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, 1 May 2017 | 4m | |||
V0 | A Fruity Chardonnay
Start right side of slab wall. Obvious easy holds to the top. FA: Jarred Jordan | 3m | |||
V0 | Nightmare on Jug Street
Nice warm-up, stick to the right side of the boulder. FA: Jarred Jordan | 4m | |||
V0 | Ten Metres on Crimps
About 5 metres on jugs. Slabby and easy. FA: Ashlee Taylor, 2017 | 4m | |||
V0 | Bouncing Cats
Up the left side of the boulder, another very easy warm-up. FA: Mirabelle James, 2017 | 4m | |||
V0 | Pillar of Ascension
Pretty straight forward, up the pillar-like wall. FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, 1 Mar 2017 | 5m | |||
V0 | Nice Mangoes
Warm up for your warm up FA: Mirabelle James, 2017 | 2m | |||
V0 | A Whole Lotta Dog Slobber
A climb for grandma FA: Mirabelle James, 2017 | 2m | |||
V0 | Crab Walk
Start down right and finish with the other climbs on this boulder. I projected this for years, every day and every night. I tremble thinking about it. FA: Mirabelle James | ||||
Galston Gorge The Orphanage Left Side | |||||
V0 | Tasteful Sideboob
Side start, move up jugs mantle to top out. FA: John Bignold & Jarred Jordan, Sep 2016 | 2m | |||
Galston Gorge The Graveyard Upper Side | |||||
V0 | ★ Vietnam Veterinarian
Stand start on the ledge and use the holds in the roof and then on the left arete to top out. | 3m | |||
V0 | Wall-E
Sit Start with right hand laybacking the left side of the crack. Move up and top out. FA: Mirabelle James | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Coco
Crouch start to the right of the crack with hands on the first decent holds midway up the wall. Crack out right is off for feet. FA: Jarred Jordan | 2m | |||
Galston Gorge The Graveyard Lower Side | |||||
V0 | ★ La Dura Dura Dura
Sit start and climb the jugs up the corner. Beautiful warm up. | 3m | |||
V0 | Quick and Easy
Climb up right side of the rock and avoid the slab at the top. Very very easy. If you cannot climb this, please consult a medical professional. | 3m | |||
Galston Gorge The North Cliff | |||||
16 | Krystal Lovelong
Up wall on jugs past 1 bolt, 0.5-1 Friend in break, then up on thin moves past 2nd bolt. DRBB on top. Set: A.Batey FA: W.Davis, 2013 | 9m, 2 | |||
15 | ★ Chockstone II, Return of the Cowbell
Easily up twin cracks and exit via counter-intuitive move through twin chockstones directly above as for "Needs Nuts Not Bolts". Solid stoppers and cams all the way with a cowbell or large cam in the final split. FA: Graham Dowden & Angus M, 23 Oct 2016 | 8m | |||
Berowra Beside the Buttress | |||||
V0 | Darragh Rocks
FA: Kerrylee Kirk, 27 Jun 2020 | 3m | |||
V0 | Darragh’s Fat Cat
FA: Brendon Flanagan, 27 Jun 2020 | 3m | |||
Berowra Pimple Buttress | |||||
16 | ★ It's For You
Easy but reachy. Up to ledge , hard move then R to arete and jugs and L to anchor. There is a harder variant moving left to the centre of the wall clipping one bolt. 19? Anchors replaced 2017, then after breaking biners, replaced again 2020. FA: James Holbrook, 1984 | 10m, 3 | |||
15 | ★ Taylor Made
Jug haul up past rings. Start: right side of buttress 30m left of 'Cenotaph Corner'. Now has loweroffs. FA: Julian Anderson, 2000 | 6m, 2 | |||
Berowra Sunny Side Up | |||||
V0 | ★ Hidey-Hole
Starting from the left hand side, climb almost diagonal towards the hole near the top. (Where a nice no hands rest is available). From here its just a matter of standing up to reach a jug and then over the top. Set: Jack Schyvens, 22 Jul 2017 FFA: Jack Schyvens, 22 Jul 2017 FA: Jack Schyvens & Daniel Butler, 22 Jul 2017 | 6m | |||
V0 | ★★ Lefty-Cut
Finishes a little left of the Hidey-Hole. Set: Jack Schyvens, 22 Jul 2017 FFA: Jack Schyvens & Daniel Butler, 22 Jul 2017 FA: Jack Schyvens, 22 Jul 2017 | 6m | |||
V0 | ★ Double Headed Snake
Start 1m right of 'Slabby Staircase'. Smaller holds and some more balancey moves Set: Daniel Butler, 22 Jul 2017 FFA: Daniel Butler, 22 Jul 2017 FA: Daniel Butler & Jack Schyvens, 22 Jul 2017 | 6m | |||
V0 | Legless Lizard
Start 1m right of 'Double Headed Snake'. Small jugs to crimps, a little balancey. Very chossy. Set: Daniel Butler, 22 Jul 2017 FFA: Daniel Butler, 22 Jul 2017 FA: Daniel Butler & Jack Schyvens, 22 Jul 2017 | 6m | |||
Berowra Ladder of Gloom Area | |||||
15 | ★ Avoidance Arete
Wall 3m L of Savage Cabbage. Start on gently rocking boulder. FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2020 | 8m, 4 | |||
15 | Crusty the crack
Up crack system, fiddly gear in poor rock, so don't fall | 12m | |||
Berowra Kid Free Area | |||||
15 | Ramp of Death extensions
Reachy boulder the DS straight up to the first bolt on the ramp of death. Then reachy finsh through to higher anchors. FA: Jeffrey Crass | 1 | |||
16 | ★ Get thee to a Gunnery
arete right of Jessica's, Pull out your guns for the top. Have the belayer keep a snug rope on the last moves as you are close to the ledges and there's a 10m of rope to stretch. FA: Jeffrey Crass | ||||
Berowra Glamorpus Area | |||||
16 | ★ Prowl 'n Prejudice
Juggy line on hangers up small overhang. FA: Child & Jones, 30 Jul 2016 | 8m, 3 | |||
15 R | ★ Julian's Finest Hour
Up the black wall using very marginal gear placements. Start: 8m left of 'Grumpy Old Men' (sounds like the FA of Prowl and Prejudice) FA: Julian Anderson, 1990 | 6m | |||
Berowra Positive Ape Factor Area | |||||
16 | ★★ MT
Left side of arete, mantel out left and walk R to arete and up. Traverse left to lower-off. Stay off after rain as the arete is pretty hollow. Strong climbers will rip holds off, definitely hide and wear a helmet while belaying. FA: Jeffrey Crass | ||||
Turner Road | |||||
V0 | Divine Beast
Starts just right of the crack between "Covfefe" and "Lechon Kawali". From the undercut start pull onto the vertical wall above. Take care with the topout. FA: Charles B, 17 Jul 2020 | 4m | |||
V0 | Lechon Kawali
Start on jugs above the lip FA: Charles B, 19 Jun 2020 | 3m | |||
V0 | Arete
Straight up the arête. FA: Rick W, Apr 2020 | 3m | |||
V0 | Grove Cube
Starts left of the Arete. FA: Rick W, Apr 2020 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ ETOH
1m right of LI FA: Rick W, Apr 2020 | 3m | |||
V0 | MIP
1m right of II. FA: Rick W | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ The Search
Sit start at low sidepull and up using holds on the face only FA: Charles B, 19 Jun 2020 | 4m | |||
V0 | Closeout Corner
Corner FA: Charles B, 19 Jun 2020 | 4m | |||
Crosslands | |||||
16 | Nasty
Short thin slab with 2 RB and DRBB. 1m left of LTN. Rock has crumbled in several places possibly making this pitch harder FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2009 | 6m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ One Hit Wonder
Over large block then up slab to DRBB. 2m right of LTN. FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2009 | 12m | |||
15 | Possum Hollow
Right hand end of big sandy cave. Up wall passing BR to ledge the head left and up wall using cams and wires. | 12m | |||
16 | ★ A Little Problematic
Same start point as PV. 3 RB, straight up to DRBB. FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2009 | 8m, 3 | |||
Du Faur walls Suffragette wall | |||||
16 | ★ Freda Mind
Right of the hand crack, feel free to use it FA: V Wills, 2010 | 10m, 4 | |||
Mt Ku-ring-gai Fossil Wall | |||||
16 | Vanstone the Vampire
Up short wall. 2 RB's to lower offs. Start: Just right of descent gully. FA: Vanessa Wills, 2004 | 7m, 2 | |||
16 | ★★ Working From Home
Rising traverse following ledge/break/crack all the way to finish anchors for 'Ruddock the Ring Wraith'. Done in two pitches, belay at Captain Underpants. Start: As for 'Legoland' FA: Andrew Ingles & Colin Larter | 50m | |||
16 | ★ Legoland
A good route for people starting to lead as all the bolts are easy to clip. Up obvious line of several ledges. 4RB's to lower offs. Start: 15m right of PPP FA: Vanessa wills, 2003 | 15m, 4 | |||
16 | ★ Elbow Abrasions
A good link up (or escape from UM crux). Up as for UM then step left after mantle at 3rd bolt, to finish up 'Legoland'. 4RB's to lower offs. Start: As for 'Unguarded Moment'. FA: Vanessa Wills, 2003 | 15m, 4 | |||
Mt Ku-ring-gai Moto Cross wall | |||||
15 | A dream, nothing more
Up corner crack (RB), then to up easy corner, placing gear if neeeded. Start: At corner rt of PW. FA: Vanessa Wills, 2003 | 9m | |||
16 X | Goblin Grotto
Start in grotto/cave thing left of 'Goofy Foot', onto the ledge, up into the crack, which is fists through the roof followed by an awkward mantle and then up small gulley tending left over boulders to top. Be careful as rock quality is poor and gear may pull. Respect the X rating, it is a hand full of sand climb. #4's is helpful and watch out for rope drag. First Ascensionist was Colin Larter originally gave it Aid grade 15A2 FA: Colin Larter FFA: Luke Harrison, 12 Mar 2023 | 15m | |||
16 | Malibu Rider
Start as for open project, (cam in break if needed) then traverse right across slab (RB) to corner crack then easily up to lower offs. FA: V Wills, 2004 | 10m | |||
Mt Ku-ring-gai Faraway Wall | |||||
16 R | The Mischievous Leprechaun
Start in cave, swing up and out of cave then up crack. Very little protection for top half. Start: 2m L of Peruvian Love Child. FA: Colin Larter., 2009 | 10m | |||
16 | ★ Istanbul (Not Constantinople)
Pocket to edge then up jugs, nice moves. Add a grade if you're short. 2 RB's to lower offs. Start: 3m R of CIC FA: Jason Lammers | 8m, 2 | |||
Mt Ku-ring-gai Hidden Heights | |||||
15 | ★★ I Hate Everyone
Start at ground level, (not on access ramp) tending slightly right on face over short slab to anchors. FFA: rod | 9m, 3 | |||
15 | ★ 5 Seconds of Bliss
Bouldery start with jugs all the way to anchors. Take a grade or two off depending on the size of the cheat cairn you use. FFA: rod, 23 Aug 2020 | 9m, 3 | |||
16 | ★★ Get Up in my Poutine
Same start as 5sob, tend right up to anchor left of crack FFA: rod, 18 Oct 2020 | 9m, 3 | |||
16 | ★ Some happiness Is Terrific
Steep fun start onto arete, end of wall right side FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg | 10m, 3 | |||
16 | Lunch is Liquidated
Up left side of face off ramp onto ledge and short face to shared anchors FFA: kevin van Tilburg, 11 Oct 2020 | 13m, 3 | |||
15 | ★ The Fosters Carpark Boogie
Straight up wall right of crack FFA: kev van tilburg, 18 Oct 2020 | 8m, 3 | |||
15 | Illusion of Hope
Up right side to shared anchors FFA: rod, 9 Jul 2023 | 8m, 2 | |||
15 | Blades of Grass LH Variant
Up crack to the tree then head left. Lower off gum tree. FFA: Marty Middlebrook, 25 Nov 2020 | 12m | |||
15 | ★ Blades of Grass RH Variant
Up the crack to the tree and then head right. Lower off the gum tree. FA: Brendon Flanagan & micha middlebrook, 25 Nov 2020 | 12m | |||
16 | Jump Me, Im Soaking
Step off boulder into pocket and up blunt arete....add 3-4 grades if starting from bottom excluding block. FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 23 Jul 2023 | 7m, 2 | |||
Mt Ku-ring-gai Lost & Found Wall | |||||
15 | Bumphlegm
Scramble up short chimney to top of block. Up seam to top. Start: At base of big block 3m left of 'Goblin Horde'. FA: Colin Larter, 2007 | 10m | |||
16 | ★ Lactose free
Start up right, move left then straight up FA: Rod Wills, 2005 | 13m, 4 | |||
15 | ★ Kodak Moment
Trad route up a nice looking crack FA: Elliot Braham, 2004 | 15m | |||
15 | ★ Lost property
Start 2m right of F. Up obvious crack tending left to finish up arête of Foundlings. Crack eats medium nuts. 4 meter run out scramble to arete. FA: V Wills & T Tang, 2006 | 15m, 1 | |||
15 | Worth the walk?
Obvious off width roof crack. Not the most glorious of routes, but fun little moves and surprisingly easy. Start: 20m left of Bill. FA: Greg Hislop, 2008 | 6m | |||
16 | ★ Intelligent Design
Mantle start, straight up blunt arête. Shared lower offs with Evolution. FA: Rod wills, 2006 | 9m, 3 | |||
15 | ★ The Meaning Of Life
Straight up middle of slab. FA: Rod Wills, 2006 | 11m, 4 | |||
16 | Down and Out in the Bible Belt
Around corner at same level on next wall. Up slab onto short face to lip and anchors. FFA: rod, 2 Aug 2015 | 10m, 3 | |||
Mt Ku-ring-gai The Underworld | |||||
16 | Crapola
Left side of cave onto blank slab. Start: 10m rt of Pr-Kev, FA: Rod Wills, 2008 | 7m, 3 | |||
Mt Ku-ring-gai The Very Far, Far Away Crag | |||||
16 | The Three Hundred Thousand Dollar Man
Start at the right hand end of the main wall. Up crack to ledge and tree then continue up chimney. FA: Colin Larter, Jul 2015 | 18m | |||
Mt Ku-ring-gai Short Sharp Loud Wall | |||||
15 | ★ La Mer
Up middle of first wall, harder than it looks FFA: Rod Wills, 28 Sep 2014 | 7m, 2 | |||
15 | ★ Point and Click
Right side of block just left of mossy streak. Tricky start getting easier the higher you go. FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 28 Sep 2014 | 7m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ Hyperpower
Start in middle of face, up onto small knee high ledge right of evident scoop and left of first bolt. FFA: Rod Wills, 28 Sep 2014 | 7m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ Code Brown
2m Lt of H, bouldery start up short technical face. FFA: Rod Wills, 13 Sep 2015 | 7m, 2 | |||
15 | ★ Spentmember September
2nd most left route on detached bolder. FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 15 Sep 2014 | 7m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ Rock odyssey
Left most route on detached boulder, using arete and face. FFA: Jordan Mansfield, 5 Oct 2014 | 7m, 2 | |||
15 | Severus
The corner crack behind the detached boulder. Up corner to ledge, then right and up, taking care with the loose stuff. FA: Colin Larter, Jul 2015 | 10m | |||
15 | Asgaeirr
The crack in the middle of the wall. Step left on ledge to anchors for "Sweet 'n Tasty". FA: Colin Larter, Jun 2015 | 8m | |||
16 | ★ Deceive with Belief
1m left of "Sweet 'n Tasty". Up and over obvious angled corner feature to shared anchors. FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 10 Aug 2014 | 8m, 3 | |||
16 | ★ Ruiner
Traverse left along low angled feature onto arete and up to shared anchors, can go straight up as well from below first bolt @ the same grade. FFA: Rod Wills, 6 Jul 2014 | 8m, 3 | |||
The Motherlode Lasseters Reef | |||||
16 | ★★ Dwarvish Poetry
Start at right of large block, beneath obvious small L facing corner at break. Up to break (BR) then easily up corner to slab. Take care clipping 2nd bolt FA: D. Hughes, 2011 | 15m | |||
Ku-ring-gai Chase McCarrs Creek | |||||
V0 | ★ Mr Car
Stand start up arete | ||||
V0 | ★ Mrs Car
Stand start on crimps and make way upards. | ||||
Ku-ring-gai Chase Green Snake Gully Rattle Snake Gully | |||||
V0 | Not Much to Mention
| ||||
V0 | ★★ Thruster
| 2m | |||
V0 | Rear Spoiler
| 3m | |||
Ku-ring-gai Chase Cottage Point Phil's Wall | |||||
V0 | Philler
Cute. Up the jugs right of the scoop, sit start. FA: Phil Staples | ||||
Ku-ring-gai Chase Cottage Point The Fin | |||||
V0 | Air On A G-String
Start at the base of the overlap, then up the relaxing slab - if you don't mind a loose hold or two. | ||||
V0 | Y-Fronts
Up the feature on the Northern end of The Fin. | ||||
Ku-ring-gai Chase Above the Boat Tier 1 | |||||
V0 | Promite
The right hand side of the Orange scoop. Jug your way on those big holds. | 3m | |||
V0 | Portal
Just left of the gully. Find your way via the big pocket with relief towards the top. | 4m | |||
V0 | Grotty Yachty
Start low (or sit start) with both hands on the obvious seam, then straight up with a balancey finish. Don't cheat and use the tree to top out. FA: EileenDover, 9 Oct 2021 | 3m | |||
V0 | Pinchy
Delicate start left of tree, then straight up. FA: J. Bohm, 9 Oct 2021 | 4m | |||
V0 | Assonance
Start on obvious crack 1m left of Pinchy and straight up FA: Haley Rambles, 9 Oct 2021 | 4m | |||
V0 | Death to Cyclists
Up the left side of the boulder. FA: jkrawlo, 9 Oct 2021 | 4m | |||
V0 | Klingons on the Starboard Bow
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