Routes in Hornsby and the North for selected grade

Start on the side-pull and climb the left side of the boulder.

Beware very tall! Use top rope or hundreds of pads. Start with the juggy hole in the wall and continue upwards.

Sit start not necessary. This is a high ball. Take plenty of mats and spotters. Top mantle is very spicy. The bottom can get wet after rain.

Squat start at jug, mantle for top out.

Sit start at the side pulls, move up to jug and then mantle on the left hand side.

Start start, move up left rail, jugs high on the right, top out.

Start on the big slopey spot and head using the crack and big holds to the top. A great warm-up.

Sit start on the obvious under-cling and use the flakes to traverse left and up to the top.

Stand start and head right up through the slopers.

Sit start left side of boulder on jugs. Use crimps to the top out.

Start on jugs to the left of Fantastic Flamingos and avoid using the side wall.

Start on the obvious ledge at the bottom left hand side of the boulder. Shoot up to the lip and mantle over the top. Quite the classic.

Stand start with the obvious left side pull and the right arete. Climb straight up.

Stand start on the obvious holds and mantle to the top.

Climb onto the the ledge on the left and then climb up the face. Sketchy landing.

Combination of jamming and jugs through the roof. Old-school hard-core coarse-grained rock needs more cleaning. DRBB on top right of crack.

Something different Start in the corner to the left of KC. Move into horizontal crack and then head left following it around the corner and above the big roof and then head up to top once the crack runs out. Needs a clean and big gear.

Sit start on giant scoop near arete and up good holds to easy topout.

Stand start and up cool wind swept slopers and crimps to high topout on huge slopey jugs near peak of boulder. Very pleasant.

Hard start (bolted) then a fairly easy trad finish. No lower off.

Good crack climb, lots of nuts for reassurance.

Climb through steep terrain to finish at the anchors of Raisin' Hell.

Potential bad fall in to ledge around the 3rd bolt - don't blow it! belayers stay sharp! funky moves upside down and behind the head...

Start: 2m right of Raisin' Hell

Climb steep arete then up head wall.

Start: Right 'Arete' on the Cave of Soap

Up Yesterday's Heroes to 2nd Ubolt, then right a (hard) move and straight up crimpy wall, step left at top to YH lower off.

Up yet another thin route

Start: 1m right of 'Yesterday's Heroes'

Now fully bolted, and has its own anchors. More consistent than DC.

Start: 2m right of 'Palm Sunday'

Popular route, up thin crimps. Will probably be the hardest route at the crag in 10 years if the holds keep disappearing.

Start: Immediately right of 'Dangerous Currents'

Up line right of 'Eccles', initialled. Has been retro bolted. Very hard start to jug, then straightforward. The grade is historical, probably harder than Bill Collins off the ground

Start: right of 'Eccles'

Wall right of Riding Shotgun. Through roof to lip, lower or (easier) backjump.

Pocketed wall/bulge 5m right of Ramp of Death, Jump to pocket and away!

Up corner by Scones of Doom, onto Bronco and up.

Rightwards on slopiness then up nose, all the holds are in the wrong place, it traverse right around arete up high. Desperate but fun climbing

Rooflet then sandy breaks. Bolt on lip has been replaced.

Start: 1m right of 'Comausminpab'.

Another crag classic. Made even more so after rebolting. Up through pockets then 'blank' wall to finish. Start: 1m right of 'Natasha'. Anchor added on slab on left.

Traverse left from the base of 'Mental Fatigue Direct Start' to the anchors of Scott's Edge.

Go direct, left of the original start for MF, past two rings.

Start: 2m left of MF

Cool pocket move and more funkies above. Crosses Mental Fatigue so avoid traffic jams. Start 1.5m Left of Mental Fatigue, up the good pocket. Clip 2nd bolt on MF then up to big Jug and rail (both reached from the MF flake), then straight up wall.

Marked. Bouldery start (BR) then move past 2nd BR to break. easy going to the top.

Start: 3m left of the corner.

Wander up PAF to the right leading flake. Out via flake past the remnants of a bolt (well protected by any number of nuts/cams 80cm left or a bomber 0.2 cam underneath). Take care with the furthest part of the flake as it is cracked and flexing.

Start with feet down in the hole, leaning on the rock with hands matched on the lip. Powerful moves with the added difficulty of avoiding dabbing the rock behind.

Overhanging hand crack to the right of "Divine Beast". Faceholds are in. Top out is a little bit dodgy.

Sit start at the obvious pocket

Start with both hands in the obvious pocket. Follows a crimpy sequence.

Start matched in horizontal gash.

Start on the ledge then stand up into the side pull. Thumb press to strand up and then onto the crimps. Bit of a scramble to top out.

The left hand route with a bouldery start and finish- and thats the climb! May be easier if taller

1m right of offwidth and up to share anchors. Unfortunately the easiest way to the anchors is via the offwidth after the last bolt.

the offwidth

Thin holds to slopy mantle, finish just above horizontal ledge

The left most climb on this wall. A long reach left will help if you are stuck at the crux.

Up through pockets to ledge and headwall to shared anchors with MP

Mantle onto ledge to start then up big pockets to break and headwall to shared anchors

Up corner, into cave and then out onto slab. Take a deep breath and progress to anchors. Great route but top slab is a bit bold when dirty, either stick clip the anchors and clean it, or add a bolt.

with interest up diagonal crack .The route at the left end of the crag

Follow crimpy breaks to slab. 3RB's to lower offs.

Start: 1m right of PP

Hard start up pockets then tending right over bulge. 3RB's to lower offs.

Start: 2m right of RTRR

Diagonal line of bolts. Short but stout. 3RB's to lower off.

Start: 7m right of CUATAOTWWW

Great technical climbing up improbable line. Up slabby face to mantle, stepping rIght to crux move over bulge. Harder if you're short. 4RBs to lower offs.

Start: 2m right of 'Legoland'.

Up centre of wall on right side of obvious feature.4RB's to lower offs.

Start: 2m rt of EA.

Hard start. Up right side of slab over small rooflet and onto slab. 4RB's to lower offs.

Start: 1m R of DMD

Up corner block through break over roof. Will it ever get repeated? 2RB's to shared lower offs with LOH.

Start: 2m rt of LOH.

1m R of G. Up through rooflet to shallow corner.

Up orange face and weakness. 4RB's to lower offs.

Start: 5m rt of GGAS

Stick clip 1st bolt and launch out and up, to finish as for SBOPL. Dont blow second clip as could result in a grounder. 2 U's to lower offs.

Start: 2m R of SBOPL

Up to RH face to thread/bollard runner, step left across corner/crack to 1st bolt (hidden from ground - long draw). Follow juggy step face to anchors. 5RB's to lower offs.

Start: 5m rt of DA

Up thin face past pockets. 2 RB's to lower offs.

Start: 3m R of Pb

Start: 3m right of PS, up steep scoops over bulge.

Start just right of Bummagedon and left of the crack. Directly up the wall.

Start 3m right of Woken Furies. Up overhang trending rightward, and then easily through roof and jugs to finish. Perhaps a little soft, like the name sake.

Up steep terrain over small roof to lower offs. 3 RB's to lower offs. Warning: falling while trying to clip the top anchors may result in a ground fall. This clip is the hardest part of the climb. Wear a helmet

Start: 3m right of WF

Start: On slab wall just right of big cave and left of Scorpion. Up slab to short steep headwall.

Start: 5m right of CC. Middle of wall following obvious ramp. 8 RB's to DRB.

Start: 2m right of Aerospace, straight up the face.

2m left of "A day in the life", up past big crimps, pockets and slopers to anchors.

Start just left of Meet Your Master, and traverse up and left passed very bad gear, to finish up Backstabbing Cousins. A thread runner comes in handy. Rock quality is horrible. Best you don't fall.

Up left leaning crack onto flake and up.

Stand start in hole and make way up and over

Stand start on slopey rail.

Not currently climbable due to banksia tree.

Start in head high breaks on the right side of the wall. Easy moves lead to a challenging mantle. Fun.

Up the faint prow that is the left hand side of the scoop. The foot ledge is in. Cute.

Excellent, can hardly tell the difference. Start on the pocketty feature at the base of the faint arete. Up and right to the top.

Step on the boulder and grab the highest possible holds on the arete, then follow the leaning arete to the top. Bad landing.

Up pockets left of the corner.

Stand on the small rock to reach the jugs at the lip of the roof, then up on large pockets to tree.

Up. Very nice.

Up. Very nice.

At the Southern end of the boulder. Start low on the leaning arete right of the overhanging face, traverse the arete all the way around to the slab on the other side. Good fun.

Pick some solidish holds low in the orange overhanging choss, then up rightish to the weakness on the lip and mantle. Pleasant enough.