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Description

This wall has decent bluestone bouldering. The wall is about 150m long and 2-8m high, and is relatively slabby.

You can invent problems from VE to V3, even up to V-as-hard-as-you-want-to-contrive. It's quite hard to grade traverses so we hope we'll enough climbers here to get a consensus.

Approach

The wall is on the lower side of High Street in Northcote, access is via Timmins street.

The area is easily accessed by bike, car (park on Timmins Street), train (Merri Station or Westgarth station), or tram (Ruckers Hill/High St stop on tram #86).

Descent notes

You'll have to jump or down climb to get off the wall. You can top out on to the footpath above but be very careful with this since the top of the wall is often covered in moss and other vegetation that's slippery.

History

History timeline chart

In 1888-1890 the tram route (the 86 route today) was extended up Ruckers Hill, this required a huge ramp to be built because the gradient of the slope was too steep otherwise. The embankment for this ramp was built with bluestone blocks and filled with earth. The wall for this ramp forms the climbing wall described here.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Traverse the full length of the wall, staying down low.

Traverse the full length of the wall. Note that you'll have to avoid the tree that's growing out of the wall by going above or below it.

Traverse the full length of the wall, keeping your hands on the top block. Note that this route is quite high off the ground for the first section.

This route is a traverse that uses only the masonry drill holes for the hands and all feet. To find the start of this route go to the spot where the tree is growing out of the wall. Starts at the super good pinch on the block with slight remnants of blue paint located directly beneath the triangular capstone. Traverses to the left until you get to the last drill hole before the staircase at Charles street. The route stays close to the ground up until the last section before the staircase where you have to go up a little bit before climbing down to the last hold that's low.

FA: Janis Lesinskis, 11 Oct 2020

Somewhat highball route that only uses the plug and feathers masonry drill holes for hands. Large number of holds but many of them are low quality. Definitely bring some protection if you climb this route, might be a good idea to have a spotter too.

This route is near the section of the wall opposite the bluestone paved laneway entrance.

FA: Lucas Pittaway, 18 Jul 2020

This route uses only the masonry drill holes for the hands. Traverse from right to left then go upwards to the bricks.

FA: Janis Lesinskis, 28 Sep 2020

This route only uses the drill holes from the plug and feathers masonry technique for the hand holds. The first hold is a horizontal drill hold that's quite large and quite good. Then there's a fairly large vertical up to the next groups of holds which are 3 rather large vertically oriented drill holes which are quite good from there the holds get a bit smaller until you reach the top (the large distance between the holds makes this route significantly easier if you are taller).

FA: Jeremi Laverdiere Blouin, 18 Jul 2020

Dyno up to the missing block in the wall.

This route uses only the plug and feathers masonry drill holes for the hands and surface features for the feet. All the hand holds for this route are within a width of 50cm or so.

FA: Andy Walker, 1 Jul 2020

This route only uses the drill holes formed by the use of the plug and feathers masonry technique used to split the stone blocks for construction. The route starts in the treeless area at the same starting point as "Plug and feathers traverse right to left" goes up and to the left before coming right and upwards above the starting point. End of the route is where stone changes to bricks. The path climbed by this route forms something of a sickle shape.

This route only uses the masonry holes formed by the plug and feathers drill holes in the rock for the hand holds and only the surface features of the stones for the feet. Starts at the same point as the sickle shaped traverse behind tree K but instead of traversing left then right you just go straight up from the start point. 2 of the drill holes form a pinch directly above the starting point that allows this route to be taken.

FA: Andy Walker, 1 Jul 2020

This route uses only the plug and feathers masonry drill holes for the hands. This route starts at the same spot as a number of other routes ("plug and feathers traverse" right most hold, "sickle shaped traverse" and "the big pinch shortcut") after traversing from right to left you have to go up and right before going up and left to the end of the route.

FA: Andy Walker, 8 Jul 2020

Using only the mono pockets for the hands climb up to the bricks

Starts from a sitting start with right hand on the higher crimp and left hand on the lower and better crimp. Then a hard (relative to the rest of the route) first move up to a not so good sloper that's in the top left corner of the block followed by a direct vertical route up though a somewhat blank upper section of the wall. This route uses only the features of the wall (no cracks).

FA: Janis Lesinskis, 25 Jul 2020

Start with a sitting start and go up via the sloper holds that are just above the start. All the holds in this route are negative holds with fairly high friction which makes climbing this route feel very different from the general character of the rest of this wall.

The holds at the start are quite large but get smaller as you go up. The route blanks out significantly towards the top of the wall.

Variants on this boulder can be done without using any of the cracks between the stones and only climbing with the features. It is substantially easier to climb if you use the gaps in the grout (which are quite big in some spots) between the blocks on the wall for footholds.

FA: Janis Lesinskis, Jun 2020

This is the same route as the Timmins street slopers route except the start is one block directly below which adds an extra move and makes the start substantially harder. Start with a sitting start and go up via the sloper holds that are just above the start. All the holds in this route are negative holds with fairly high friction which makes climbing this route feel very different from the general character of the rest of this wall.

The holds at the start are quite large but get smaller as you go up. The route blanks out significantly towards the top of the wall.

Variants on this boulder can be done without using any of the cracks between the stones and only climbing with the features. It is substantially easier to climb if you use the gaps in the grout (which are quite big in some spots) between the blocks on the wall for footholds.

Climb to the top row of stones using only undercling holds

Traverse using only the pockets for the hands.

This traverse uses only the hand holds that have been formed from the drill holes that were used in the plug and feathers masonry technique that was used to split the stone blocks used in the construction of this wall. This type of feature is almost entirely side pulls on this route.

Note that the easiest foot positions for this traverse are very close to the ground on the lowest row of blocks, so if the grass is long you may not be able to see all the foot holds. Also the lowest row of blocks can be wet and somewhat slippery even if the rest of the wall is dry if the grass is long.

This traverse uses only the hand holds that have been formed from the drill holes that were used in the plug and feathers masonry technique that was used to split the stone blocks used in the construction of this wall. This type of feature is almost entirely side pulls on this route.

Note that the easiest foot positions for this traverse are very close to the ground on the lowest row of blocks, so if the grass is long you may not be able to see all the foot holds. Also the lowest row of blocks can be wet and somewhat slippery even if the rest of the wall is dry if the grass is long.

Use only the pockets for hands, any feet.

FA: Oliver Adams, 26 Nov

Traverse left to right (it goes up then back down). Use only the drill holes from the plug and feathers masonry technique for the handholds. Control the start using the good LH and average RH. Use any feet you want.

FA: Jason Moody, 1 Aug 2020

Traverse right to left (it goes up then back down). Use only the drill holes from the plug and feathers masonry technique for the handholds. Control the finish using the good LH and average RH. Use any feet you want.

FA: Hugh Robertson, 8 Aug 2020

This route uses only the masonry drill holds for the hands. Start is the same as Gone in 60 minutes but you traverse up higher and further to the left before the downclimb. Route ends when you have got your feet onto the bottom row of blocks.

FA: Stas Likane, 2 Aug 2020

This route uses only the masonry drill holes for the hands and any feet. Starts at same spot as Pandemonium and Phalanger Challenger, traverse to the right until you get to the hand jam crack.

FA: Janis Lesinskis, 22 Oct 2020

Warning Rock: Chossy holds

This route makes use of two hand holds up in the bricks portion of the wall. Look for a pocket formed by the gap between the rows of bricks, it's quite deep and good. Top out on the footpath above. Definitely would recommend climbing this with protection if you plan on topping out since this is chossy at the top and can be slippery depending on the conditions.

This route only uses the drills holes for the hands along with any feet. Route ends at the bricks.

FA: Stas Likane, 1 Nov 2020

This route is a short traverse followed by a vertical route that only uses the plug and feathers masonry technique drill holes for the hands. Starts with a short traverse from right to left before going straight up. Route ends at the brick section of the wall above the stones.

FA: Janis Lesinskis, 25 Jun 2020

This route uses only the plug and feathers masonry technique drill holes for the hands. Route traverses a bit from right to left then goes diagonally up and to the left.

FA: Janis Lesinskis, 18 Jul 2020

This route just uses the plug and feathers masonry drill holes for the hands. Note that the vertical hold is a bit sharp and uncomfortable. Route ends by tapping the bricks at the top of the wall.

FA: 18 Jul 2020

This route has a really good section between two blocks where you can use hand jams.

The top row of stones where they meet the brickwork just above this route has exposed and somewhat rusted metalwork that can be sharp and just generally a hazard especially if you dyno or forcefully reach to this row (there's some metal brackets that were bolted between the stones and the bricks that if I recall correctly used to support something that was removed a long time ago). Also due to this area being in the shade almost permanently the top of this route is often damp and can be slippery. If you going to dyno to the top ledge please look first so you are able to avoid the hazards at the top of the route.

Stand start using obvious crimp jugs. Dyno to the top of the bluestone bricks and top out over onto High st. Is probably harder than a 5 if your under 6ft.

FA: Hugh Robertson, 27 Sep 2020

This route only uses undercling holds, ends under the last row blocks on the wall.

This route consists only uses the drill holes formed by the plug and feathers masonry technique and the ledge where the stone wall meets the bricks for hand holds. There's only 3 drill holes on this route with the last one being a fairly marginal hold. There's a fairly large distance between the last drill hold and the ledge at the top of the wall that may require a bit of dynamic movement (even if you are tall) so bring a mat if you want to try this route. Also be careful with where you place your hands on the uppermost ledge at the end of this route as there's exposed metal on the ledge at the top that can be a hazard. If you decide to go for a dynamic move at the end make sure to mark out a safe spot for your hands first before going for the move.

FA: Janis Lesinskis, 5 Jul 2020

Start from a sitting start from the masonry drill holes where Lockdown Balance Training also starts. Climb directly up using only the masonry drill holes for the hands. Note that this route is substantially tougher if you are shorter.

Starts at the same holds as "Lockdown balance training" and traverses to the right using only the masonry drill holes for hands and all feet. Joins up with the same holds as "Menage a trois". Ends at the missing 9 block (where "Menage a trois" starts).

FA: Janis Lesinskis, 26 Oct 2020

Long traverse using only the drill holes from the plug and feathers masonry technique for the hand holds. This route starts low on the wall and has a fairly big reach to get started before traversing horizontally for a few meters before going diagonally upwards for a few meters.

This route starts the same as lockdown balance training but goes upwards in the middle instead of dropping back down again, the end is in the same location but at the top capstones instead of the bricks. The top ledge of the wall where the stones meet the bricks is out for this route. Use the 2 smallish drill marks towards the top of the wall as hand holds while traversing from left to right, this route ends at the top of the wall in the section where a big chip has come out of the capstone.

FA: Julien, Sep 2020

This route is a sit start that uses only the features of the wall to climb up to the bricks. (This route is named after a species of grass that I think grows near the wall a reference to the sit start on the grass)

Sitting start route that you have to lay back on since it's a sloper. (This route is named after a species of grass that grows in the areas near the wall, a reference to the sit start on the grass)

This route is a sit start that uses only the features of the wall to climb up to the bricks. (This route is named after a species of grass that grows near the wall a reference to the sit start on the grass)

Start at the missing block that looks like the number 9 as formed by the missing area. Traverse left using only the drill holes from the plug and feathers masonry technique, many of which are very small (5cm) then climb up to the bricks at the same ending point as the Bridge street masonry traverse.

FA: Jason Moody, 1 Aug 2020

Start at the missing 9 block then traverse right until you get both feet on the next missing block. Only use the masonry drill holes for the hands and any feet. Next project is to extend it to the following missing block (by linking up with the route Sort yourself out) but I couldn't work it out.

FA: Jason Moody, 11 Aug 2020

This route uses a missing block in the wall as the only place for hand holds along with the top of the blocks (where the stone blocks meet the bricks). Can place feet anywhere. There is block missing from the wall as well as a substantial crack below this missing block with the void space having a shape that looks a bit like the outline of the number 9.

Start from a sitting start with your hands using the space formed from the missing block. Route ends by touching the bricks with your hands (3m). An extended version of this route (4m) you can top out by climbing over the brick potion at the top of the wall and top out on to the footpath above.

This route uses only the plug and feathers masonry drill holes for the hands and surface features for the feet. Good introductory climb for these sorts of routes on this wall (Many of which have bird names, hence the name of this route)

No hands until the sloper at the top of the wall.

This is a very short route on the shorter portion of the wall. This route only uses the plug and feather masonry drill holes for the hands. Standing start with both hands on the undercling drill holds that are 75cm up from the ground, there are two more hand holds 90cm directly up from the start holds. This boulder is just an awkward start. Good introductory climb for these sorts of routes on this wall (Many of which have bird names, hence the name of this route)

This climb starts where Bon Voyage finishes. Stand start matching head height chip. Traverse right only using the mansonary drill holes. Once you reach massive foot jug, top out over onto High St.

FA: Hugh Roberston

RH on the top left corner of the missing block and LH on the good ledge about a foot to the left. Place your feet anywhere you want and shoot up to the sloper at the top.

This is a run and jump. Get enough momentum to get a foot on the missing block and dyno up to catch the sloper at the top of the wall. While this route isn't high it is a good idea to bring a mat or be spotted if you try this as it's really easy to rotate awkwardly if you fall.

This route is a no hands climb except the sloper hold at the top of the wall. Same sort of idea as Step up to High street except go static with no run up.

FA: Janis Lesinskis, 30 Oct 2020

Dyno from the ground up to the triangle capstone. If you want to get a feel for the holds walk right to the next triangle capstone that's lower to the ground.

Climb up to the stump and press out a mantle.

Note that this route doesn't exist anymore as the tree stump that was protruding out of the wall was removed a few years ago. Since then a new tree has been growing at the previous end point of this climb.

Climb up to the triangle capstone and traverse to the next capstone using only the sloping hold at the top of the wall. Note that if the grass is growing too tall this route is pretty much impossible to do if it is covering the low footholds near the end

Climb the entire traverse using only the masonry drill holes and mono pocket holds formed by the construction of the blocks. Start at the concrete under the staircase and ends near the end of "sort yourself out"

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