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Earlwood

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 13
  • Ascents: 1,815
  • Aka: Girrahween park

Seasonality

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Summary

Short, steep, good quality sandstone.

Description

A popular and pleasant little south facing crag with the look and feel of English Gritstone. Excellent rock quality, easy top-rope setups and well bolted. In addition to the following climbs, there is also bouldering (Bardwell traverse) located at the left end of the crag. There are additional minor bouldering areas: (a) a small area approximately 100 m further left of the crag, right next to the track, (b) A few problems can be found scattered in bushland on the West side of Finlay's Ave near the entrance to Turella park (about 10 min walk right of the main crag when facing the trainline).

A 3D model of the main area is available to download here. https://www.box.com/s/6cn9lyfhkmrctz176zv2 (Please note Sketch up V8 is needed to view it)

Access issues

The many new families going for walks (and their dogs!) in this isolation time have bashed a few new tracks, try to dissuade them from using these.

Approach

Located above Wolli Creek in Earlwood. Catch a train to Bardwell Park station or drive to Fauna St or Sutton Ave, Earlwood. Walk into Girrahween Park, and where the sealed paths converge, take the obvious bush track (east). After 10 minutes of scenic bush walking the high track passes directly underneath the crag, if you are on the lower walker's track when you see the crag, walk another 10m to find the track up, please don't bash through the bush. Alternative access is from the east end of this same track located downhill from the end of Finlays Avenue, Earlwood (the bush track is marked by a small post labeled TVT). Climbs described left to right (west to east), facing the cliff. Watch out for a small amount of broken glass on the path near the crag.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Located 100 metres left of the main crag.

Left end of bouldering wall. Sit start from obvious (chalked) holds. Blunt arete is on. Rounded top out.

sit start, arete is off at the top perhaps

Sit start using two holds 1 metre in from arete. Traverse right using holds only below 6 feet finishing on the crescent jug at the start of 'The God Delusion'.

Technical, sustained and pumpy - absolute classic.

1 move problem. Locate a rounded jug about 8 feet off the ground, 2/3rds the way along the Bardwell Traverse. Underneath this at about waist height are two incut holds about 4 inches apart. Dyno from these to the jug.

FA: 2003

Sit start 2m right of Bardwell Dyno at base of seam on Gaston and small slot. Reachy move to crimp rail then easy top out.

FA: Meredith Apple, 28 Jan 2019

A fun easy route on the upper ledge accessed by topping out any of the other problems. Sit start at the big break then up through gym quality pockets to an interesting top out. Note: there is no space for a mat, please take care around the foliage at the base.

FA: DK, 31 Mar 2019

Warning: the first bolt has been chopped.

Start at R end of bouldering traverse. Boulder the start then up slab and then left through contrived steepness.

Best forgotten as lowering off will trash the bushes below.

Fun bouldery start, then up slab and up through rooflet to loweroffs.

Up middle of the main slab. Take long slings for lower-off

Up right side of slab past a carrot bolt, then up shallow groove to loweroffs. When climbed directly (for your 17 tick) you may reflect on the route name!

Best to clean the top before trying it. Blind slaps. Up just right of corner. Will get easier with cleaning.

FA: Michael Law, 1993

Up arete to nervous finish, right side of Wee Paws block

FA: Michael Law, 2020

Start 10 m right of MSD, at base of short slab. Up slab to large ledge (DBB), then up ledges.

You can practice a multipitch belay on this one.

The narrow bolted slab with an eroding dirt base. Not a great lead for the grade as the bolts aren't in the best positions. On the half way ledge are two double ring bolts, clip the left one and keep motoring up via a tricky mantle to the top. There are now anchors at the top for lowering off.

Sharp Arete 3m R of Mystery Slab Climb, layback up either the left (don't use big holds out left) or right side of the arete.

FA: Michael Law, 1975

Left side of overhang 5 m Left of Teenage Wasteland. Short slightly overhanging wall to short slab

Start 5 m left of main buttress, in ferns. Dangle up left along lip and flake in roof. grade 24?

FA: Peter Martin, 1999

Shares start with A. Up to fixed bracket then continue up right side of ramp to shared anchor.

FA: A Forrest, 21 Dec 2013

Starts just left of vegetated corner. At the 4th ring bolt throw a move out R, head up then back L to shared DBB lower off.

Left most climb on “Brangelina Wall”. Bolted same day as unknowingly coaching 4 out of town celebrity kids. Start in bushy corner then straight up slab. Best to rap off slightly set back anchors

FA: ANDREW FORREST

Start in bushy corner, head out right and up

Start in bushy corner, head out further right and up

Start in bushy corner, head out even further right and up. Best to be seconded and then rapped off to clean

Climbs first couple of moves of Transfixed then directly up to join Pax

Climbs first 3 bolts of Transfixed then up to join Knox

Start at L end of cave (5m L of the main wall) under the main wall. Climb lip of cave past 3 rings, and around R of arete and up to chains.

FA: Saxon Johns

Batman start from fixed hanger left of SOIS. Big move to good edge (best to place long/extended draw on 2nd bolt). Straight up past another RB with a couple more big throws to shared Transfixed anchor. The traverse in through Just One Fixe is a closed project.

FA: ANDREW FORREST

Batman start directly below the grey streak left of the middle of the main wall, or traverse in from Kaos ledge. Crank onto wall using tiny holds, and straight up past 3 bolts. Had a free start (27), before a key hold was pulled off.

FA: Peter Martin, 1992

Traverses Just One Fixe until starting FH of Science of Imaginary Solutions then up. A more sustained and technical variant to SOIS.

FA: Andrew Forrest, Jul 2020

Start as for Stolen Moments or from R edge of Kaos ledge and traverse L along base of main wall clipping fixed hangers out to and up finishing arete of Transfixed. Thin and technical climbing adds for a pumpy finish

Start on ledge as for Kaos and its first bolt, then traverse L using two horizontal weaknesses. Finish up final arete of Transfixed.

Start up Kaos to 2nd BR, then left across break then up and left to chains at top of Transfixed (or Science of Imaginary Solutions).

FA: Mike Law, 1975

Bouldery start up left side of ledge passing ring and fixed bracket. Diagonally left as per Kaboodle then R to double ring anchor.

Start 2 m L of Cornered. Step onto R end of small ledge and balance left. Up past 3 rings then weird horizontal dyno R and up small flake to top (as for Fascination Street). Originally soloed!

FA: Mike Law, 1979

Start at R edge of small ledge. Straight up passing chopped bolts from the original route. re-bolted with rings.

FA: A. Walters, 1992

Links Fascination Street into Touch Sensitive from 2nd bolt

Mixed climb or stick clip first high bolt. Start as for Cornered clipping ring bolt on main wall face at 5m. Up past horizontal breaks to DBB. For the full 22 tick avoid using the crack or ledge!

Up as for Cornered until leftward leaning ramp on main wall. Traverse left to the anchor of Touch Sensitive

FA: Andrew Forrest, 2020

Jam crack corner on the right of the main face with a wide finish. Hands to offwidth but you won't need offwidth skills. A big cam or fat hex to protect the final bridging finish. Belay off cams in the horizontal break (or continue to the very top and make use of the carrots).

Straight up the bolted slab right of Cornered.

FA: Peter Martin, 1992

Square cut arete. Thin and technical. Originally soloed

FA: Mike Law, 1975

Contrived wall left of Cornered Again. Unprotected before the RBs appeared.

FA: mikl law, 1975

A good route up the corner. Ring locks and bridging to a final heave-ho to finish. Belay off an assortment of carrot bolts needing large hangers.

Face just right of corner with ringbolts.

Left facing thin flake then straight through the steep wall above to rap chain (which may or may not be hanging over edge). Pumpy for a mini-route!

Up the thin groove, break right at the overhang. Rounded exposed top out. One bolt on the main face two for the lower off. You can clip the first bolt of the route just left (Meat Puppets), some trad gear will reduce the top runout.

Thin eliminate wall right of Warm it Up. Quite independent.

FA: Eugene Mak, 2020

Little wall squeezed in left of TC, using bolts on TC.

The short arete at the right side of the main crag

FA: Mike Law, 1975

Superpumpy for such a short route. Start up The Count to 3rd bolt, then up and left across Warm it up and Meat Puppets climbs to hit the final bolt on Whistling in the Dark and up to lip, back R a move to anchor. Backjump

FA: Michael Law, 2016

Up wall two meters right of "The Count". Take care clipping 3rd bolt. For full value, start up the wall or the arete, not off the high block in the gully.

Set by Andrew Forrest, 2011

Start in gully and step left to Red Rattler's 1st and up to 2nd bolt on Red Rattler, then a rising traverse R up ramp past ring to a slabby finish out R, left to lower off. 17 if you start up the arete as for The count and Red Rattler

FA: Michael Law, 2020

Start up the gully and 1.5m R of Red Rattler. Up thin start to jugs and clip 3rd bolt on RedRatRight (or just stick clip the bolt anyway), then left a move and up funky slab to lower off. Originally a solo highball.

FA: Michael Law, 1978

A good highball boulder problem on solid polished orange rock.

The steep seam with one manky piton up high. The usual descent if you solo Slab Master.

This wildly overhanging arete is a great pumpy highball boulder problem. Once had retro-bolts, but these have been chopped. Tree, carrot and ring top-rope anchors

FA: Michael Law, 1975

Start as per Slab Master from block to break then head right to the flake and head up from there. Easier finish than Slabmaster

FA: Demetrius, 8 Jul 2019

Start at the left arete of the fin. Up the face just right of the arete to the top. No pro.

FA: Will Monks, 1996

3m right of WiB. Hard start then up the slab, passing two rusted carrot bolts to a double bolt belay. Take wires for the bolts, since they're too big for normal bolt brackets.

Line 1 m R of E. Use slopey edge at 5/6 metres with R. Committing top.

As per F except use slopey edge with L and move 1 m R to pocket. Back L to top out.

the slab just R of the tree

Left-slanting crack 20 m R of Right wall.

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