Earlwood Rock climbing 89 routes in crag

Extended version of Groin Busta, starting with matched hands down the bigger face of the rock at the side pull jug. Traverse right to the arete and groin busta your way up.

Sit start, with two decent half crimp holds. Traverse left around the arete, find those dainty feet. Right hand crimp followed by left hand crimp, then reach up for a good sidepull jug over the the ledge and top out.

Sit start, arete is off at the top perhaps, but it doesn't make much difference.

Sam May

Sit start using two holds 1 metre in from arete. Traverse right using holds only below 6 feet finishing on the crescent jug at the start of 'The God Delusion'.

Technical, sustained and pumpy - absolute classic.

1 move problem. Locate a rounded jug about 8 feet off the ground, 2/3rds the way along the Bardwell Traverse. Underneath this at about waist height are two incut holds about 4 inches apart. Dyno from these to the jug.

A fun easy route on the upper ledge accessed by topping out any of the other problems. Sit start at the big break then up through gym quality pockets to an interesting top out. Note: there is no space for a mat, please take care around the foliage at the base.

Warning: the first bolt has been chopped.

Start at R end of bouldering traverse. Boulder the start then up slab and then left through contrived steepness.

Best forgotten as lowering off will trash the bushes below.

Up right side of slab past a carrot bolt, then up shallow groove to loweroffs. When climbed directly (for your 17 tick) you may reflect on the route name!

Best to clean the top before trying it. Blind slaps. Up just right of corner. Will get easier with cleaning.

Sam May

Start 10 m right of MSD, at base of short slab. Up slab to large ledge (DBB), then up ledges.

You can practice a multipitch belay on this one.

The narrow bolted slab with an eroding dirt base. Not a great lead for the grade as the bolts aren't in the best positions. On the half way ledge are two double ring bolts, clip the left one and keep motoring up via a tricky mantle to the top. There are now anchors at the top for lowering off.

Layback arete Right of Mystery Slab (or easier up big holds on left) to ledge (and possible belay). Pull through bulge and head a bit left, then traverse to 2 bolt lower off as for Mystery Slab. (harder finish straight up)

If done as a multi, extend first belay down and stand on ledge. Bring second up to top belay and set up an abseil.

Left most climb on “Brangelina Wall”. Bolted same day as unknowingly coaching 4 out of town celebrity kids. Start in bushy corner then straight up slab. Best to rap off slightly set back anchors

A super long traverse. Start as for Transfixed (route 34) and keep traversing right to join Just One Fixe (route 39), instead of going up, keep going right following the horizontal line of bolts to finish at the start to Just One Fixe and other routes where the ledge is. Stay low along the wall. A good route when no one else is at the crag as you use up so much space.

Batman start from fixed hanger left of SOIS. Big move to good edge (best to place long/extended draw on 2nd bolt). Straight up past another RB with a couple more big throws to shared Transfixed anchor. The traverse in through Just One Fixe is a closed project.

Batman start directly below the grey streak left of the middle of the main wall, or traverse in from Kaos ledge. Crank onto wall using tiny holds, and straight up past 3 bolts. Had a free start (27), before a key hold was pulled off.

Start as for Stolen Moments or from R edge of Kaos ledge and traverse L along base of main wall clipping fixed hangers out to and up finishing arete of Transfixed. Thin and technical climbing adds for a pumpy finish

Start 2 m L of Cornered. Step onto R end of small ledge and balance left. Up past 3 rings then weird horizontal dyno R and up small flake to top (as for Fascination Street). Originally soloed!

Another COVID linkup, for the kind of person who thinks Struggle Street would be better if only you were more pumped going into it. Batman to the arete, reverse Just One Fixe for 4 bolts, then at the pocket go up to the next break, so you can continue traversing into the Struggle Street crux without touching the ledge. Finish up Struggle St.

Go up Fascination/Struggle Street for 3 bolts, then reverse Kaos 'dyno' and continue traversing left to the last ring of In the Mixe (before last line of hangers on the main wall). Finish up In the Mixe.

Links Kaos to the top of Touch Sensitive.

As if this wall wasn't confusing enough, here's another possible link-up of different routes. The first ascent of this was, in fact, the result of miss-reading the routes.

After the horizontal dyno of Kaos, take one step to the right and finish on the top section of Touch Sensitive. Route originally 'envisioned' by Guilherme Pizzi

Mixed climb or stick clip first high bolt. Start as for Cornered clipping ring bolt on main wall face at 5m. Up past horizontal breaks to DBB. For the full 22 tick avoid using the crack or ledge!

Jam crack corner on the right of the main face with a wide finish. Hands to offwidth but you won't need offwidth skills. A big cam or fat hex to protect the final bridging finish. Belay off cams in the horizontal break (or continue to the very top and make use of the carrots).

Up the thin groove, break right at the overhang. Rounded exposed top out. One bolt on the main face two for the lower off. You can clip the first bolt of the route just left (Meat Puppets), some trad gear will reduce the top runout.

Superpumpy for such a short route. Start up The Count to 3rd bolt, then up and left across Warm it up and Meat Puppets climbs to hit the final bolt on Whistling in the Dark and up to lip, back R a move to anchor. Backjump

Warning Rock: Loose rock near third bolt

Up wall two meters right of "The Count". Take care clipping 3rd bolt. For full value, start up the wall or the arete, not off the high block in the gully.

Start in gully and step left to Red Rattler's 1st and up to 2nd bolt on Red Rattler, then a rising traverse R up ramp past ring to a slabby finish out R, left to lower off. 17 if you start up the arete as for The count and Red Rattler

Start up the gully and 1.5m R of Red Rattler. Up thin start to jugs and clip 3rd bolt on RedRatRight (or just stick clip the bolt anyway), then left a move and up funky slab to lower off. Originally a solo highball.

A good highball boulder problem on solid polished orange rock.

The steep seam with one manky piton up high. The usual descent if you solo Slab Master.

Bat hang to start from a 2 finger pocket and small crimp. Rotate out then head left joining into the finish of Pads and friends. This is the longest problem on the wall.

This wildly overhanging arete is a great pumpy highball boulder problem. Once had retro-bolts, but these have been chopped. Tree, carrot and ring top-rope anchors

3m right of WiB. Hard start then up the slab, passing two rusted carrot bolts to a double bolt belay. Take wires for the bolts, since they're too big for normal bolt brackets.

Sit start left hand matching with left foot and right hand on juggy side pull.

Pull into an obvious undercling and slap your way up the arete to an awkward mantle. (Jugs past the arete are out)