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Earlwood

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 26
  • Ascents: 3,115
  • Aka: Slabmaster overhang
  • Aka: Girrahween park

Seasonality

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Description

Steep overhang behind the slabmaster wall. make sure you pad out the area well and have a spotter.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Routes

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Grade Route

Located just left of the Main Bouldering Area you'll find a handful of problems amongst the broken cliffline.

Extended version of Groin Busta, starting with matched hands down the bigger face of the rock at the side pull jug. Traverse right to the arete and groin busta your way up.

Start with LH on slope RH in crack. Up and over the top without using wall to right.

For more of a challenge start with RH in crack on underside.

FA: Dante Donato, 22 Jul

Sit start on right hand side pull and lowest left hand (below the mega-jugs). Straight up and top out.

Grade to be confirmed

FA: Unknown

Step up to RH undercling, LH side pull. Avoiding all jugs and big holds/feet to the left

FA: Roman Donato, 2021

Step up to RH pocket, LH in big dish. Top out left side arete

FA: Roman Donato, Aug 2021

Located 100 metres left of the main crag.

Sit start, with two decent half crimp holds. Traverse left around the arete, find those dainty feet. Right hand crimp followed by left hand crimp, then reach up for a good sidepull jug over the the ledge and top out.

Left end of bouldering wall. Sit start from obvious (chalked) holds. Blunt arete is on. Rounded top out.

sit start, arete is off at the top perhaps

Sit start using two holds 1 metre in from arete. Traverse right using holds only below 6 feet finishing on the crescent jug at the start of 'The God Delusion'.

Technical, sustained and pumpy - absolute classic.

1 move problem. Locate a rounded jug about 8 feet off the ground, 2/3rds the way along the Bardwell Traverse. Underneath this at about waist height are two incut holds about 4 inches apart. Dyno from these to the jug.

FA: 2003

Dyno from the middle of diddy crack to the finish jug on Bardwell dyno, top out slightly to the right. Easier for the comp climbing inclined

Set: Chad Ryan, 9 Apr 2020

FA: Eamonn Wooster, 9 Apr 2020

Sit start 2m right of Bardwell Dyno at base of seam on Gaston and small slot. Reachy move to crimp rail then easy top out.

FA: Meredith Apple, 28 Jan 2019

A fun easy route on the upper ledge accessed by topping out any of the other problems. Sit start at the big break then up through gym quality pockets to an interesting top out. Note: there is no space for a mat, please take care around the foliage at the base.

FA: DK, 31 Mar 2019

Warning: the first bolt has been chopped.

Start at R end of bouldering traverse. Boulder the start then up slab and then left through contrived steepness.

Best forgotten as lowering off will trash the bushes below.

Fun bouldery start, then up slab and up through rooflet to loweroffs.

Up middle of the main slab. Take long slings for lower-off

Up right side of slab past a carrot bolt, then up shallow groove to loweroffs. When climbed directly (for your 17 tick) you may reflect on the route name!

Best to clean the top before trying it. Blind slaps. Up just right of corner. Will get easier with cleaning.

FA: Michael Law, 1993

Up arete to nervous finish, right side of Wee Paws block

FA: Michael Law, 2020

Start 10 m right of MSD, at base of short slab. Up slab to large ledge (DBB), then up ledges.

You can practice a multipitch belay on this one.

The narrow bolted slab with an eroding dirt base. Not a great lead for the grade as the bolts aren't in the best positions. On the half way ledge are two double ring bolts, clip the left one and keep motoring up via a tricky mantle to the top. There are now anchors at the top for lowering off.

Layback arete Right of Mystery Slab (or easier up big holds on left) to ledge (and possible belay). Pull through bulge and head a bit left, then traverse to 2 bolt lower off as for Mystery Slab. (harder finish straight up)

If done as a multi, extend first belay down and stand on ledge. Bring second up to top belay and set up an abseil.

FA: Michael Law, 1975

Sharp Arete 3m R of Mystery Slab Climb, layback up right side of the arete.

FA: Michael Law, 1975

Left side of overhang 5 m Left of Teenage Wasteland. Short slightly overhanging wall to short slab

Start 5 m left of main buttress, in ferns. Dangle up left along lip and flake in roof. grade 24?

FA: Peter Martin, 1999

Shares start with A. Up to fixed bracket then continue up right side of ramp to shared anchor.

FA: A Forrest, 21 Dec 2013

Starts just left of vegetated corner. At the 4th ring bolt throw a move out R, head up then back L to shared DBB lower off.

Left most climb on “Brangelina Wall”. Bolted same day as unknowingly coaching 4 out of town celebrity kids. Start in bushy corner then straight up slab. Best to rap off slightly set back anchors

FA: ANDREW FORREST

Start in bushy corner, head out right and up

Start in bushy corner, head out further right and up

Start in bushy corner, head out even further right and up. Best to be seconded and then rapped off to clean

Start as for Knox, then one further move right to climb the Arete.

Climbs first couple of moves of Transfixed then directly up to join Pax

Climbs first 3 bolts of Transfixed then up to join Knox

A super long traverse. Start as for Transfixed (route 34) and keep traversing right to join Just One Fixe (route 39), instead of going up, keep going right following the horizontal line of bolts to finish at the start to Just One Fixe and other routes where the ledge is. Stay low along the wall. A good route when no one else is at the crag as you use up so much space.

Set: Laurie BA & and Maria Garcia., 15 Aug

Start at L end of cave (5m L of the main wall) under the main wall. Climb lip of cave past 3 rings, and around R of arete and up to chains.

FA: Saxon Johns

Batman start just right of arete. Haul up trending left and join 'Unnamed Arete'.

Batman start from fixed hanger left of SOIS. Big move to good edge (best to place long/extended draw on 2nd bolt). Straight up past another RB with a couple more big throws to shared Transfixed anchor. The traverse in through Just One Fixe is a closed project.

FA: ANDREW FORREST

Batman start directly below the grey streak left of the middle of the main wall, or traverse in from Kaos ledge. Crank onto wall using tiny holds, and straight up past 3 bolts. Had a free start (27), before a key hold was pulled off.

FA: Peter Martin, 1992

Bouldery start up left side of ledge passing ring and fixed bracket. Diagonally left as per Kaboodle then R to double ring anchor.

Start as for Stolen Moments or from R edge of Kaos ledge and traverse L along base of main wall clipping fixed hangers out to and up finishing arete of Transfixed. Thin and technical climbing adds for a pumpy finish

Traverses Just One Fixe until starting FH of Science of Imaginary Solutions then up. A more sustained and technical variant to SOIS.

FA: Andrew Forrest, Jul 2020

Start on ledge as for Kaos and its first bolt, then traverse L using two horizontal weaknesses. Finish up final arete of Transfixed.

Start up Kaos to 2nd BR, then left across break then up and left to chains at top of Transfixed (or Science of Imaginary Solutions).

FA: Mike Law, 1975

Start 2 m L of Cornered. Step onto R end of small ledge and balance left. Up past 3 rings then weird horizontal dyno R and up small flake to top (as for Fascination Street). Originally soloed!

FA: Mike Law, 1979

As for Kaos but both cracks used in the dyno are off. Go straight up through the middle on some techy small stuff and pop for the jug rail above.

FA: Diego DeDiana, 2 Oct

Another COVID linkup, for the kind of person who thinks Struggle Street would be better if only you were more pumped going into it. Batman to the arete, reverse Just One Fixe for 4 bolts, then at the pocket go up to the next break, so you can continue traversing into the Struggle Street crux without touching the ledge. Finish up Struggle St.

FA: Cédric Le Gentil, 17 Sep

Do the crux of Fascination street & finish up Goccio D’aqua. Both cracks are off on this too.

FA: Diego DeDiana, 2 Oct

Start at R edge of small ledge. Straight up passing chopped bolts from the original route. re-bolted with rings.

FA: A. Walters, 1992

Links Fascination Street into Touch Sensitive from 2nd bolt

Go up Fascination/Struggle Street for 3 bolts, then reverse Kaos 'dyno' and continue traversing left to the last ring of In the Mixe (before last line of hangers on the main wall). Finish up In the Mixe.

FA: Cédric Le Gentil, 23 Sep

Links Kaos to the top of Touch Sensitive.

As if this wall wasn't confusing enough, here's another possible link-up of different routes. The first ascent of this was, in fact, the result of miss-reading the routes.

After the horizontal dyno of Kaos, take one step to the right and finish on the top section of Touch Sensitive. Route originally 'envisioned' by Guilherme Pizzi

FFA: Rafael Andreollo, 10 Dec 2020

Mixed climb or stick clip first high bolt. Start as for Cornered clipping ring bolt on main wall face at 5m. Up past horizontal breaks to DBB. For the full 22 tick avoid using the crack or ledge!

Up as for Cornered until leftward leaning ramp on main wall. Traverse left to the anchor of Touch Sensitive

FA: Andrew Forrest, 2020

Jam crack corner on the right of the main face with a wide finish. Hands to offwidth but you won't need offwidth skills. A big cam or fat hex to protect the final bridging finish. Belay off cams in the horizontal break (or continue to the very top and make use of the carrots).

Straight up the bolted slab right of Cornered.

FA: Peter Martin, 1992

Square cut arete. Thin and technical. Originally soloed

FA: Mike Law, 1975

Contrived wall left of Cornered Again. Unprotected before the RBs appeared.

FA: mikl law, 1975

A good route up the corner. Ring locks and bridging to a final heave-ho to finish. Belay off an assortment of carrot bolts needing large hangers.

Face just right of corner with ringbolts.

Left facing thin flake then straight through the steep wall above to rap chain (which may or may not be hanging over edge). Pumpy for a mini-route!

Up the thin groove, break right at the overhang. Rounded exposed top out. One bolt on the main face two for the lower off. You can clip the first bolt of the route just left (Meat Puppets), some trad gear will reduce the top runout.

Thin eliminate wall right of Warm it Up. Quite independent.

FA: Eugene Mak, 2020

Thin face between Miniaturization and The Count's arete. Clip bolts on The Count?

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2008

The short arete at the right side of the main crag

FA: Mike Law, 1975

Superpumpy for such a short route. Start up The Count to 3rd bolt, then up and left across Warm it up and Meat Puppets climbs to hit the final bolt on Whistling in the Dark and up to lip, back R a move to anchor. Backjump

FA: Michael Law, 2016

Warning Rock: Loose rock near third bolt

Up wall two meters right of "The Count". Take care clipping 3rd bolt. For full value, start up the wall or the arete, not off the high block in the gully.

Set: Andrew Forrest, 2011

Start in gully and step left to Red Rattler's 1st and up to 2nd bolt on Red Rattler, then a rising traverse R up ramp past ring to a slabby finish out R, left to lower off. 17 if you start up the arete as for The count and Red Rattler

FA: Michael Law, 2020

Start up the gully and 1.5m R of Red Rattler. Up thin start to jugs and clip 3rd bolt on RedRatRight (or just stick clip the bolt anyway), then left a move and up funky slab to lower off. Originally a solo highball.

FA: Michael Law, 1978

Steep highball boulder problems located just right of the Main Sport Climbing Area.

Dyno from a left crimp and right pinch into the obvious jug and then another massive move into a dirty jug to top out

FA: Patrick Mielcarz

A good highball boulder problem on solid polished orange rock.

The steep seam with one manky piton up high. The usual descent if you solo Slab Master.

Start on starting jug for "D" head right and follow the sharp juggy crimps to a commiting top out. -Bring lots of pads and a trusty catch

Set: Patrick Mielcarz

FA: Alexander Lopes, Aug 2021

Set: Patrick Mielcarz

Bat hang to start from a 2 finger pocket and small crimp. Rotate out then head left joining into the finish of Pads and friends. This is the longest problem on the wall.

Set: Alexander Lopes

FA: Patrick Mielcarz, Aug 2021

Campus start from lowest ledge, follow the sharp crimpy overhang to a committing top out. Arete from slabmaster is out. Bring your pads and friends.

FA: Alexander Lopes

Set: Patrick Mielcarz

Bat hang to start from a 2 finger pocket and small crimp. Rotate out and finish the same as Ropeless Industries

Set: Alexander Lopes

FA: Aug 2021

Start as 'Batman' but exit right to using the large crimp.

Alexander Lopes

Set: Alexander Lopes & Patrick, Sep 2021

FA: Alexander Lopes, Sep 2021

This wildly overhanging arete is a great pumpy highball boulder problem. Once had retro-bolts, but these have been chopped. Tree, carrot and ring top-rope anchors

FA: Michael Law, 1975

Start as per Slab Master from block to break then head right to the flake and head up from there. Easier finish than Slabmaster

FA: Demetrius, 8 Jul 2019

Start at the left arete of the fin. Up the face just right of the arete to the top. No pro.

FA: Will Monks, 1996

3m right of WiB. Hard start then up the slab, passing two rusted carrot bolts to a double bolt belay. Take wires for the bolts, since they're too big for normal bolt brackets.

Line 1 m R of E. Use slopey edge at 5/6 metres with R. Committing top.

As per F except use slopey edge with L and move 1 m R to pocket. Back L to top out.

the slab just R of the tree

Left-slanting crack 20 m R of Right wall.

From the main sport climbing wall head south across the main walking track and 10m down the hill.

Sit start left hand matching with left foot and right hand on juggy side pull.

Pull into an obvious undercling and slap your way up the arete to an awkward mantle. (Jugs past the arete are out)

Set: Patrick & Alexander Lopes

FA: Patrick Mielcarz, Aug 2021

Same start as Epic Slap dyno from left side pull to top lip (arete is out except for start hold). Massive move, lots of pads required

Set: Aug 2021

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