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Seasonality
Description
Afternoon sun
Sheltered from wind
West
Once "a crag of its time (90s) it was full of rusty carrots, mixed gear, choss and no lower offs" - until recently, (2010 onwards) when a big retro-bolting effort commenced. Spread out over a long broken cliff there are spectacular views over the Hawkesbury that almost make you forget the hum of the freeway. There are some good climbs hidden away. Online guides for this area are available through Sydney Rockies. The following descriptions are to update that information, as the area is slowly "modernised" by local climbers.
© (vlw)Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
Approach
Gentle
5-10 min
Heading north on the F3 you cross Jolls bridge and a few hundred metres beyond this there is an emergency bay where you can reverse safely between two guard rails into a grassy area where there is room for 5 cars (As of April 2015 the parking area is in process of expansion).
From the parking an obvious path takes you 20m, crossing over a barbed wire fence to the cliff top with great view. From that lookout you can access the sectors.
Approach to seperate sectors described in those sectors.
Alternatively park on the old Pacific 'Highway' as described in the SSS guide and walk under the bridge. Follow the guard rail untill the stone cutting and this is the southern end of the crag.
© (vlw)Where to stay
Ethic
History
Initially discovered in 1990 by Wayne Anderson, he let the secret out to Paul Riviere. At the same time Andrew Powell and Phil Stallard (Wondabyne climbers Assoc) were scoping out the place. 10 years of development ensued through the 90's with many contributors putting up lines including Ross Linsley, Paul Riviere, Richard Jeffrey, John Wilde et al. The crag was largely forgotten in the first few years of the 21st cent, but has become once again since many routes have been retro-bolted with rings making it a good moderate sports crag.
© (vlw)Tags
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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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Photos Browse all photos
Paul Riv on ★★ Vulgar Direct 21 - 6665938871_52209938b1_b.jpg
Paul W on ★★ Bad Luck Silverback 19 - Such a lovely flake
Jason Lammers on ★★ One Sick Puppy 21 - Jolls Bridge