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Description

The main sector. The routes are described left to right facing the cliff (south to north).

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

The lower cliff can be accessed either scramble or abseil.

From the car park follow a track 2m to the cliff top, passing through a barded wire fence. To abseil look for a detached block with a little tree, 15 meters south of the lookout. New ring bolts and an old chain are obvious between the cliff and the block. The abseil is nearly 35m, so a minimum 70m rope is required. You end up in the Honey I'm Late area.

The main walk down follows the barbed wire fence south for about 200m until a fallen tree and a living grass tree block the path. Climb over the dead tree and then immediately turn to go down an easy gully. Follow the lower tier around to the left until some reo steel steps allow you down a slot. At the bottom turn right to walk north along the bottom of the cliffline. Climbs starting with Absolute Honey appear in about 40m.

Alternatively (for the most northern routes), from the lookout at the top, take the well worn track heading north, and after about 5 minutes walk (200m) do a U-bent into the Ten Pin Gully.

Ethic inherited from Joll's Bridge

There are a couple of mixed routes but the majority have been retrobolted to bring the crag into the 21st century. If it is still mixed gear, leave it like that!

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Routes

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First wall 40m north (left, facing the cliff) of the metal descent steps

This is the far southern end of the crag. Initialled AH. Up left of cave and flake past 4 RBs to new lower offs. Rebolted by Vanessa Wills 2010

FA: andrew powell & linda leman, 1993

A bit contrived - try not to use any holds of Absolute Honey. Direct to first ring shared with AH then pass a bolt, traverse left to flake under a ring bolt and up pass another bolt. Shared anchors with 'Sniffing Dogs'

FA: ross linsley & paul riviere, 1993

Starts at right side of large cave pass 5 RBs, veering right at end to shared anchors with Rapunzel

FA: ross linsley, andrew powell & paul riviere, 1993

Mixed gear with old carrots and a couple of cams #0.5 - 1 to get you to the top.

FA: John Wilde, 1993

Pump up those beginners. Starts 2m L of Wilde Thing. Reach your way up through the blocks round top and up passing tree to top.

FA: Nat Nichols & Sussie Early, 1993

Start 2m right of HGSA at small crack. Up past 3 BRs to RB, step slightly left then past 2nd RB to double bolt belay (weasel exit on right side of RB about 19)

FA: Dale Tweedie & Daniel Webster, 2009

Mixed gear - hex bolts and a couple of cams. Has not been retro-bolted. Yet another gem that does not let up till you haul through the final bulge. Start 3m L of King Kong. Boulder up past friend to bolt runner, grunt over bulge up to orange wall. Finger your way through this to overhang and friend #2 placement. Thin moves and a goose step (bolt) surmount the orange face before a juggy overhanging finish (FH). Two bolts on block at top for anchor. Needs bolt plates and cams.

FA: Phill Stallard & Andrew Powell, 1993

At slightly higher level at right side of bowl. Up past 2 carrots and a large angophora tree to DRBB

FA: nat nichols & sussie Early, 1993

Initialled BLSB. Up smooth orange rock past carrot to traverse right then up flake. Mostly trad. Traverse left at top to tree. Best led with double ropes or long slings. Although graded 19 it can seem quite difficult if this is your limit

FA: andrew powell & Tim Maroney, 1993

Start as for BLS. At the horizontal break at 3/4 height, traverse left along Cam break to join CBC and up via FH.

Start at white square 2m L of BLSB. CLip first RB from ledge then up, or return to ground for more value. Hard moves from pocket to flake then push on to ledge, anchors on wall above. Retro-ring bolted 2011.

FA: P Riviere, 1993

The trad corner, often dirty, now has lower offs

Starts 1m L of the corner. Has been fully rebolted, take care getting to second bolt. Shares anchors with BBB to left.

FA: ross linsley & paul riviere, 1993

Just L of F&B is a stunning black wall. Initialled BBB. All on RBs now. Hard moves through pockets then balancy step right and up to ledge and crack to shared anchors with route to right

FA: andrew powell & Phil Stallard, 1993

The route 4m L of BBB. Great positions up the inviting crack. Starts from down on the lower level, left of the boulder. Up the easy initial lower section, then onto the wall heading L to the crack. Goods moves and a couple of classic jams along the way. Veer right at end to loweroffs. Retro ring bolted 2012.

FA: andrew powell & tim maroney

Set: andrew powell & tim maroney, 1993

Start left of block (initialled) and mantle moves to ledge and finger crack. Hand traverse left under roof then tricky moves to second roof and back onto arete into flared hand crack. Beware of horn at top. Double ropes to lead best. DRBs at top.

Retrobolted. Start under R hand side of roof 1m to the left of TBTW (initialled). Yellow rock. Up passing rings, veer left then traverse back under 2 roofs to join the upper crack as TBTW to same finish Originally done with cams now fully ring bolted.

FA: J Wilde & D Wilde, 1994

10m L of Sand Man. "Let your fingers do the crying, a climb to cry for!" Start as for 'Texas', up the corner, then traverse hard right across the vertical wall for some 4m before going up. Re bolted with rings 2011.

FA: andrew powell & paul riviere, 1994

Set: andrew powell, 1994

Take the direct line of 'Go North Young Thang' and avoid the left ledge above the slab by clipping the lower traverse bolt before heading up on the thin pockets and crimps. Looks like it will be a great line, but a bit contrived.

As for 'Texas', up 3 bolts to ledge, then traverse right 2 metres, clip RB then very cruxy move, up through roof and step right to anchors. All RBs. If you are in trouble at the crux a bolt plate on an old carrot and a spare draw will let you aid

FA: andrew powell & paul riviere, 1993

Up corner on new RBs. Carrots and cams for the rest of the route straight up corner through chossy roof. Despite stars in the original guide this route is pretty average.

FA: phil stallard, Andrew Powell & Michelle Stibbard, 1993

Start at shallow corner just left of Texas. Up to under roof then head left onto ledge and climb short corner to finish.

Start 3m L of IAH. Some thin reachy slab work. Up past big cam to BR. Continue up slab to ledge and straight to top. Will be quite nice if retrobolted.

FA: Phil Stallard, Ivan Baker & Andrew Powell, 1993

Nice slabby arete. Start 1m L of IWBTT, moving up through some balance moves into blank corner (2 BR's) to ledge, then blunt arete to top #2 Cam and #0.5 Cam. Start just to R of undercut section then up trending left past 2BR. Up corner then up arete to ledge. Needs retrobolt and anchors.

FA: Andrew Powell & Phil Stallard, 1993

Access is easiest from the top. Locate the cave/overhang 50m sth of the car park. Walk around to the L (facing out from the cliff) until you find a small overhang/cave. The next three routes are to the L of the cave. If you are already on the bottom, climb "I'll Ask Her" which brings you up to the L of "Moe"

The furthest R of the three little climbs. One high bolt to clip then small friends in horizontal break at 4m. Top is loose and requires care. Belay off the concrete bollard.

FA: paul riviere, 1993

2m L of Moe is a left-facing weakness on steep coloured rock. One bolt and a #3 Cam in horizontal break at 6m.

FA: paul riviere, 1993

Beautiful rock. Up an obvious overhanging corner. A bolt to start, then a fixed hanger and if you are still worried a #3 cam will soothe the nerves.

FA: paul, 1993

Lower the Upper Level but still higher than the base track, 10m L of "Humping the Table"

Starts at the L end of the large overhang. 10m L of HTT. Locate the bolt belay situated up on a ledge in the back of the overhang. Traverse L past 2 bolts then pull through the roof up into a crack on the wall which takes you to the topp. 6 bolts and 2 cams.

FA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1993

Beautiful wall climbing up great rock. Starts up short corner 10m L of the large overhang. Up to break on wall next to ferny ledge, through overlap to horizontal #1.5 & #2 cams. Out an up to bolt via ramp the straight to finish on L side of block. Small cam near top.

FA: andrew powell & paul riviere, 1993

Fine face work on ironstone blades. Start as for TT, up corner through small overlap then slightly L to top passing 2 BR's and a #2 cam.

FA: andrew powell & tim maroney, 1993

Starts as for TT and blast up corner to top. Anchors in back of cave.

FA: Phil Stallard, Micky & Carl, 1993

Short wall with three bolts. Starts off ledge 1m L of PMMHH. Straight up wall past some dubious rock to the cave. Nice mantle to finish. Belay in back of cave. Rap off.

FA: paul riviere & ross linsley, 1993

Cams and wires. The diagonal seam/weakness 1.5m L of FOW. Trend L up cracks to finish at L end of cave. Belay in back of cave. Rap off rings.

FA: paul riviere & ross linsley, 1993

All the way back down to the base track. Coming from "Succulent Young Men Wall" keep follow the track downhill.

Starts 15m L of the corner at the right end of the slabs. The short open book corner with a u bolt at 3m.

  1. 15m (21) Up the short crack and onto slab. Belay at the tree below the arete. 17, 19, or 21 depending on height!

  2. 15m (20) From tree head up 1m right of arete on flakes. You can belay from the cave or continue thru to the top. Anchors are on top and require long slings, easy to collect on walk out. 30m to ground.

FA: P Riviere & ross linsley, 1993

Starts as for Oysterland 1st pitch. 2nd Pitch - clip 1st ring of Oysterland the move L to the arete. Onto face and straight up using cams to protect.

FA: Paul Riviere & Saxon Johns, 1995

The corner/arete 3m L of Oysterland.

  1. Back at ground level a convenient bit of landscaping avoids getting your feet wet. (This has been overgrown the last few years unless someone has cleaned it up). Two bolts up a L facing corner leads the way to a large bridge of rock. Mount this and gently walk L. Easily up L side of the short orange wall (bolt), onto the big (wet) ledge. Double bolt belay.

  2. (aid if wet) Onto white block (good cam placements just above), and up into corner until you are forced R onto and around the arete. Chain belay in alcove. 6 bolts and a rack of friends.

FA: paul riviere, darren grey & matthew arnott, 1994

Variant 2nd pitch for TBL. From Double bolt belay, move R under roof with bomber friends, then up face past a U bolt. Cams protect the remainder of the climb. Chain belay as for TBL.

FA: paul riviere & ross linsley, 1995

4m L of TBL. The first of two fine, short cracks which finish in the alcove below the cave. Don't be put off by the seepage on the lower section of this and the next route. They are definitely worth the effort and not easy ticks

FA: paul riviere & simon Atkins, 1994

Another gem. The crack 3m L of PL. 1 bolt and two fixed hangers. Lower off anchors in the alcove above.

FA: paul riviere, 1995

The next two climbs start from the cave/overhang atop the previous two climbs. Best accessed by doing first easy section of The Big Lick and then walk L under the large orange overhang.

Through the overhang starting from the ledge above Pretzel Logic. Starts at the base of the overhanging nose of orange rock. Clip the first ring then through the overhang. The next two chain runners are attempts to remedy two problematic clips. After chains traverse R along the lip passing 3 more rings, a difficult mantel move and finish just below the manky roof at the rap station.

FA: paul riviere, 1994

Start as for MITS, but at the 3rd bolts head straight up over the nightmare mantle that MITS avoids, and then easy left and up on jugs.

FFA: Timothy Mayer, 9 May

Starts 8m L of Monkey in the Soul at the L end of the cave at a double bolt belay. Move R across the overlaps up into the corner than further R across yellow hanging wall, out to the lip and up to rappel station. 1 fixed hanger and 6 rings. A good one in the wet.

FA: paul riviere, 1994

Back down at ground level, continue along until you can spot the initials of HIL. This is also were you end up if you abseil directly below the carpark.

  1. Start 2m RIGHT of ringbolts (VD) at short crack and go left into cave to join VD for a few rings before heading back right to belay on pedestal ( finger and hand size cams needed).

  2. Traverse way right past 2 RBs and then up RBs and thread to tree.

  3. To top. It is 30 m to ground

FA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1993

  1. Start as for HIL (faded initials near short crack into cave).

  2. After pedestal belay traverse 2m right (ie not as far as HIL) and then up hanging corner (crux). More gear needed then bolts to DRB anchor. Care required with block just before top. 27m to ground

FA: andrew powell, 1993

This route is located in-between HIL and BJ and heads straight up. Stick clipping the first clip is recommended as the holds right bellow are often damp. Extend draws number 3 & 4; 7 & 8. Classic!

FA: M Law, 1993

Initialled BJ. Fully rebolted and do as one pitch. Starts 3m L of HIL. Up the little slab to horizontal then up over small roof to orange corner and up to next roof. Yeehaa. Reach out blindly to clip fixed hanger, now swing on out and up trending R. To easy but airy ground to belay off tree in cave. Retrobolted 2012 Anchors are back behind block.

FA: andrew powell & paul riviere, 1993

Start up BJ linking into WBF stepping left under roof and head up the amazing airey arete.

Desperate final traverse. Start 2m L of BJ.

  1. Reachy boulder moves to start and up wall passing BR to tree belay on second ledge next to orange wall.

  2. Up corner behind tree to hairy traverse off R to finish.

FA: Phil Stallard, Mick & Micky, 1993

A gripping little variant finish to WBF. Start on first belay ledge of WBF, slip on up orange wall passing BR and cams. Clip BR on lip and mantle up, out and over like a tuna.

FA: andrew powell & Milton Sams, 1993

Whole lotta air out there. Start as for WBF. Up this for 10m passing bolt runner to first ledge and small tree. Now out onto R wall just inside arete (wires and cams) and up to final BR on airy bulge.

FA: Tim, Andrew Powell, Tim Maroney & Phil Stallard, 1993

Beautiful open face climbing. Equipped with U-bolts in 2011 by Paul Riv.

  1. 35m (20) Start 4m L of WBF. Bumble up 4m to start up the line of ring bolts. Now up flake then trend L. Just above this traverse R to blunt arete. Cruise up trending L to top. Fixed anchors.

  2. 5m (20) Up rounded arete and crack to top.

FA: Andrew Powell & Tim Maroney, 1993

Start Woodface as above. Instead of trending L after the flake crooooze straight up the arete to join original route. Ross Linsley had inadvertently climbed this arete assuming it was Woodface natural line. Same anchors as for Woodface and 'Hang Ten'.

FA: Ross Linsley & Paul Riviere

The start is a 5m grovel to the steep wall.

  1. 35m (25) Hard moves after 3rd ring. Excellent rock ringbolted to a big ledge.

  2. 5m (25) Follow the roof crack R on finger tips, then a final hard move to the tree where the anchors lie. Crux's are good fun!!

FA: paul, 1994

Grovel up to the starting ledge then climb 'Hang Ten' for 3 bolts before traversing left onto ledge. Move along ledge to DBB. This leads to the start of 'Hang Five'. Follow the rings to finish on the L end of the 'Hang Ten' Ledge under the roof.

FFA: P Riviere & D Lofthouse, 2012

From the DBB on ledge head up and right to crack then back left into fused corner, then right to letterbox and finish on large ledge (abseil off). 70m rope needed to reach ground. Originally bolted by Andrew Powell but never finished climbed. Ring bolts added to make it a sport route in 2012.

Set: Andrew Powell

FA: Paul Riviere & Dave Lofthouse, Aug 2012

  1. From ground ascend through gap in ferns then with trepidation through chossy rock to ledge as for Hang Five.

  2. Up fused corner to left side of arete.

FA: P Riviere & D Lofthouse, Aug 2012

possibly the same route as Hang Five & Paul Powell.

Start up the stepping stones through the slime left of the chossy feature step right avoiding the crux of the unknown 25 then traverse left along ledge back onto it. Extenders to reduce rope drag. Or down climb traverse after clipping to retrieve last draw to remove drag. Contrived but fun.

Start as for SOG but go right and do tricky mantle onto ledge, up and bouldery moves to last bolt. Anchors are to left - shared with SOAG. Difficult to clean route so get someone to second maybe.

FFA: paul, 1995

Rock at bottom looks like crap but the higher you go the better it gets. Follow the rings up trending left then back right through a couple of good overhanging sections.

Start: 10m left of 'Locked and Loaded'

FA: paul, 1994

Starts 10m L of SOAG. Up blunt arete with some nice moves and small cams to ledge. Now up the corner to exit off R at top (flakey finish).

FFA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1993

Short but very sweet. Start as for TDW but this one takes a line off L. Small cams and wires to cave. Swing up and around L end of cave to finish.

FFA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1993

Just an other very pleasant outing.. Start as for PSLD up beginning of corner for a couple of moves (wires and #1.5 cam) then slip out R onto face passing BR on your way to crack (# 2 & 3.5 cam), continue to pop out R (# 1 cam) for final moves.

FFA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1993

A deceptive little line but good. Start as for SOS follow corner with adequate pro to finish on R side of line on block above curving crack

FA: Carl Power & Ivan Baker, 1993

Starts up slab 6m L of PIAW on a terrace about 10m up. Great line pushing through the red centre. Look out for small furry friends. Up the slab to ledge then up orange wall to more gear (cams and nuts) to small ledge to finish. Exit with care off R.

FFA: Phil Stallard, Philleep & Ivan Baker, 1993

Starts off the same terrace as previous route. Goes up the lovely orange wall a few metres L of BSMBP. The crux is the headwall above. If you do not wish to run it out after the third bolt a #1 or #2 cam will add courage. Rap anchor. Rebolted in 2015. 12 rings. The original route was intended to follow the hex bolts but it was never done. The Rings take the line of least resistance. Can appear a little run out so take a few mid size cams to sooth the nerves. A lower pitch has been added with four rings (easy # 16)

FFA: Paul Riviere, 1993

The superb flake 5m L of Ringtail. Start at base of corner below ringtail. It'll scare you but worth the adventure. Cams and nuts for protection. Finishes atop the precarious block at a belay/rap station.

Set: ross linsley

FA: Ross Linsley, Paul Riviere & Bruce Wells, 1993

A bit desperate. Starts as for 666 then move L at 3m into the seam. Full set of cams and #4 rock. Belay station as for 666.

FA: Ross Linsley, Nigel Kennedy & Paul Riviere, 1994

Megaclassic through steep juggy ground. Back to ground level, about 20m L of 666 The Beast 66, on the left wall of a small corner. Steep, airy and scary. Retrobolted 2020 (from 9 carrots to 20 Ubolts). Can be done in one pitch with a sling extender or so

  1. 12m up thin crack to Ubolt belay

  2. 25m. Crux. Up wall behind tree, trending R and up overhung arete and wall above. Lower off, or Ubolt belay over top

FA: Mikl Law & Paul Riviere, 1993

3m L of CC. The short wall with the undercut start. One BR, U-bolt and a #1.5 cam. Belay off tree.

FFA: Paul Riviere & Ross Linsley, 1994

The short corner capped by a roof 2m L of Frontline. One BR plus a U-bolt and a #2.5 cam. Awkward belay from the tree.

FFA: Paul Riviere & Ross Linsley, 1994

The blunt arete boulder problem just L of Cornered. The crux is the first 3m. Solo

FFA: Paul Riviere (solo), 1998

Desperate. The short black wall L of cornered with the bucketed centre. 3 ring bolts and rap anchors. 3rd clip difficult.

FA: Paul Riviere, 1994

Starts 2m L of BD. The first of two climbs with 3 ring bolts, that share a common finish up the smooth slab to a Double Bolt Belay.

FA: Paul Riviere, 1994

1.5m L of BF. The little corner then the same as for BF.

FA: paul, 1993

This and the following climbs start 10m off the ground on a large terrace at the base of a vertical wall of excellent rock. O starts on a ledge below R end of the Sports wall Scramble up gully and out R onto ledge below steep wall.

  1. 19m (14) Straight up wall to below roof, escape L, up and around R to belay on big ledge.

  2. 6m up small corner to top.

FFA: Phil Stallard, Ivan Baker & Kathy Merz, 1993

Start as for Triangle (below) then up arete. Cams protect near top.

FFA: Phil Stallard & Andrew Powell, 1993

Start at the far R end of sport wall at the corner with black right hand wall. Up black wall then left into corner at top.

FA: Phil Stallard & Ivan Baker, 1993

Up past BR through juggy terrain. Mantel onto small ledge then up over roof before first U-bolt. Finish up headwall past another U-bolt and cam placement.

Start: 2m left of the 'Triangle' corner.

Up the juggy wall to right side of jutting block on ledge. Uneasy moves onto slab using block then exit left.

Start: As for 'Feelin Kinda Sporty'

FA: Andrew Powell & Phil Stallard, 1993

2m L of MLJ. 2 bolts and cams.

FA: Andrew Powell & Phil Stallard, 1993

Straight up passing 2 rusty bolts and cams to ledge.

Start: On the wall at the right hand side of the cave.

FA: Phil Stallard, 1993

Traverses right through the roof left of MB. 4 bolts, rap anchor.

FA: Andrew Powell & Phil Stallard, 1993

Starts 2m L of OSP at the unusual extrusion in the back of the cave. Up R to ring than around roof to two more rings, finishing at a small broken angophora tree. Rap anchor as for OSP.

FA: paul, 1994

The first orange streak on the wall left of the cave. Ring bolted all the way to the top. Rap anchors.

FA: paul, 1995

The left of two obvious vertical orange streaks up superb rock. Hard moves down low then eases after 2nd ring. 1 bolt runner and the rest ring-bolted. Lower offs. Retro ring bolted 2013.

FA: paul riviere, 1993

A few metres left of Golden Shower is a diagonal ramp. Follow this trending R and then traverse further R to a short corner. Up the rings to rap anchor. Retro ring bolted 2014.

FA: paul riviere, 1993

5m L of STH. Problematic start. Thin moves past ironstone edges on a steep face. Follow the straight line of rings. Lower offs. Paul has rebolted this with rings feb 2015

FA: paul riviere, 1993

Tim's Project. Start 3m left of Rivers Edge. Two RBs for the hard moves and then easy finish on trad gear. Only a few cams needed.

Start in cave about 5m to the right of the other unknown climb. This is tagged and believe to be abandoned project as confirmed by Paul. Equipped with ring bolts and has solid rock, but you will need to climb mid 30s to have a chance

The route starts in the left side of the cave, just to the right of Finger Candy. Start in back left at very rusty fixed hanger, and pass four more rusty FHs to finish on rope wrapped around a rock pillar, with single carabiner. Danger - all bolts and the anchor need replacing. Appears abandoned, as confirmed by Paul. Close to grade 30. Up for the taking if you want to rebolt and try. You may need to be able to do a double foot free shoulder lock on a roof, on slopers.

This route commences on the far left end of the sports wall just beyond the cave and detatched monolith. Climb the wall to a bolt runner just left of the cave, bolt, then tricky move past crux. Mixed gear above and tree to belay.

FFA: Andrew Powell & Paul Riviere, 1994

To get to this gully from the top, take the well worn track heading north from the back of the car park, after about 5 minutes walk (200m) the path turns almost 180° and drops into Ten Pin Gully which is quite steep. About 2/3rds the way down the path cross a shallow cave. Break south for climbs south (i.e. The Sports Wall) or continue further down the rock slope for climbs north.

You can also reach the gully by walking approximately 40m North (left) of Sports Wall along the base of the cliff.

FA: Ivan Baker & Kathy, 1993

As the name implies, except maybe sharper. The obvious wide crack splitting the wall before Crack'n Up Wall. Straight up crack and veer L and up wall to top.

FA: phil stallard, ivan baker & kathy, 1993

A plus for the Box, steep slab work. Start 3m L of Square over little bulge and up fine edged section passing 2 BR's, trend slightly R through horizontals, cams to small vertical crack and on to top. Tree belay.

FFA: Phil Stallard & Andrew Powell, 1994

Steeper sharper neighbour. Step on 2mts L of HCS, up edges passing 2 BR's and on, keep to the R of jutting block on the way to the top. Cams useful. Belay as for HCS.

FFA: Andrew Powell, Phil Stallard & paul

FA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1994

The arete at the end of the buttress, just before THC. 2 bolts and a small cam on the way up. A few more smaller cams for the belay.

FA: paul riviere & andrew powell, 1994

Starts 2m L of the chimney. Sequency moves on a vertical wall. Up to a flake at 5m then slap up to a good ledge. Continue up past easier ground to the cave. Bolt belay needs brackets. Four fixed hangers and a # 1.5 cam.

FFA: paul, 1993

Finishes off what THC started. From the big scoop at the 4th hanger, climb leftwards past 2 more fixed hangers up to double U bolt belay.

FFA: paul, 1994

5m L of THC is an attractive vertical crack. Up this with wires and cams for 8mts before your first ring bolt. Crux. up to horizontal break ( a cam if you are worried) tending L to another ring bolt. Continue L to a short crack system (another cam or wire) then straight up passing two more rings. Double ring bolt anchor. rebolted 2016

Set: paul, 1993

FFA: paul & john wilde, 1993

The crack behind two blackboy bushes 7m L of Crack'n Up. Climb the crack up to bolt runner and move R to climb another short crack. Continue straight up passing a bolt to a large ledge. Climb the corner crack and move R onto the face with a bolt to protect. Tree belay. 3 bolts (need brackets), cams, wires.

FA: paul & ross linsley, 1993

The corner 5m L of Teddy. Up R facing corner past 2 bolts and a #3 cam to an alcove. Pull through centre of roof onto another ledge next to small but solid angophora (sling). Straight up wall past another 3 bolt runners and cams.

FFA: paul, ross linsley & bruce wells, 1993

The crack 3m L of IRBF. Up crack to alcove at 4m. Continue straight up past 3 bolt runners (need brackets) onto a big ledge and another bolt. Move up into short corner then slightly R to finish in small cave. Tree belay.

FFA: paul & jeff conley, 1994

Hard moves up a vertical face. A couple of bolts and fixed hangers.

FFA: Michael Law, 1994

Tackles the thin wall L of FHS. Hard to get off ground followed by some dicey hold above horizontal break. Continue straight up past easier country using mixed gear and belay from tree.

FA: ross linsley & paul, 1994

Up the shallow corner to a bolt, then up the wall/slab passing 2 fixed runners. Chain belay.

FA: paul & ross linsley, 1993

The vertical crack 4m L of HOR. Up the crack for 10m, then move up R to a ledge and pad it up past a bolt. Rack of cams and nuts. Shares chain belay with HOR.

FFA: paul & ross linsley, 1993

The last climb on Crack'n up Wall. 6 U-bolts plus a few medium cams will bring you safely to a rap anchor.

FA: paul & ross linsley, 1995

The next climbs are located down at the left hand end of Crack 'n' Up wall. Bumble up to recessed area below striking L facing orange corner.

The arete. Mixed gear with 2 bolts at the top.

FFA: phil stallard & andrew powell, 1993

Not all things get hard, but some do!. Start as for Phvvvit at the base of the corner, throw a large nut into the crack on the wall and away you go. Blast up the middle of the wall passing #3 cam to a bolt runner then to a crack and #4 cam. Hang out to the R, grab the arete and up this to small ledge passing 2 bolt runners to the top.

FFA: andrew powell & phil stallard, 1993

Bill and Ben had to do a lot of bucket and spade work to unearth this class line. Start under corner up off the end of the main wall. Straight up this corner to small roof then traverse out R with air and care of hollow sounding flake. Up to small stance. Now up and out L to top through some loose country.

FFA: phil stallard & andrew powell, 1993

Just bloody great. Start 5m L of Phvvvit and slink up the black wall till you hit the orange. Then step R a metre or so and up to small roof (cams and wires thru this section) Grab a magic undercling, clip the fixed hanger and head up final wall passing a #4 cam, bolt runner and #2 cam to the top.

FA: andrew powell, phil stallard & paul, 1993

Hidden away and almost missed, its 25m up and over the rise L of LLL. Crimp your way up compact wall on user friendly holds (not), passing 2 bolt runners to horizontal break (#3 cam). Now up to hold and over bulge, bolt runner on high crimps.

FFA: andrew powell, paul riviere & ross linsley, 1994

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