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Waterfront Area

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 61

Seasonality

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Summary

The Waterfront Area has a long, sandy cave with bangers, a huge highball face, unique, riverbed style blocs and more. Top-Rope anchors were bolted by Rob Wall years ago above the face.

Access issues inherited from Kalbarri

The Parks Service are welcoming to climbers, however there are some minor restrictions. Camping is no longer permitted in the Gorge itself, however Z Bend Group Campsite is open to climbers for $8 per person per night. The site is off-limits when booked by school/scout groups, so it is worth calling in advance before making the journey north. Registration and booking can be made at the Kalbarri National Park Visitor Centre on Grey Street, or by phone (08) 9937 1140. Note also that a WA Parks Pass is required for entry.

Ethic inherited from Kalbarri

There used to be a "No Swearing North of Northampton" rule. Breaking it, particularly at The Prom, would earn you push-ups as dictated by Remi. A boulder in The Pit derives its name from this now mostly abandoned rule.

Routes

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Grade Route

Massive steep face above a deep sandy cave. Long linkups to be done here

The author has decided not to grade the Dream Wall lines. He holds the opinion that If you’re going to attempt something this big it should be about more than a grade. Rap the lines and scope it out yourself.

Stand start the Davinci feature. Needs a few pads. Technical start, massive moves up the face. Avoid the bail ledge up high and top straight up the face. Hardest problem up the wall. Powerful.

Start on features below the first break. Trend left and head up the face with a big move about 1/3 the way up, then flowy on good holds to the top.

https://youtu.be/Atw5Ix07zkw?t=15

FA: Rob Wall & Dan Harris

A contrived finish, but one that sees you committing a big precision deadpoint at the tallest part of the face.

Start in the hole, flow through technical climbing up the proud face. Avoid the juggy stuff to the right and instead step left and head straight up the tallest part of the face with a committing throw at the top of the face.

Head up for Dogs, but use the juggy stuff out right to top out the boulder. Avoid the choss cavelets. Less dangerous and more secure. If you’re going to do any problem up the face, it should be this one.

FA: Rob Wall & Dan Harris

Deep sandy cave with a sandy landing. Low starts to both sides of the cave are hard and crimpy. Lots of flowy, juggy climbing coming from the mid starts.

Eliminate and fun. From the good sidepull on the right jump up and left to the jug rail.

Sds on double jug, traverse out along huge sandy jug rail. Continue through features to rail. Drop off. Cruisy jug hauling!

Sds on double jug. Traverse rail, then head out to pocket and throw directly to the lip jug. Finish and drop off jug ledge.

Sds low in the roof. Link horrendously tensiony lower section through slots then slopey edges into the start of Skippy MS. https://youtu.be/ux8BU39L3NI

Sds on double jug. Follow jug scoops out to lip using hollow jug. Trend right and finish on the break. Steep, juggy fun!

Start as for 'Through The Looking Glass' to the start of 'rage cage', then transition around and follow the juggy spine that runs along the lowest part of the roof, and finish on the first break of the face.

https://youtu.be/Atw5Ix07zkw?t=263

FA: Michael Taran, Aug 2023

Sds on double slot jug (Same as Rage Cage). Span over to the large undercling feature and follow obvious spine of rock out the lowest part of the roof. Finish at the break.

FA: Emily Clarke

Start deep in the right hand side of the sandy cave. Head left from the start to link into ‘rage cage’ and finish on the Monkey Bar. Pumpy and awesome.

https://youtu.be/UU-0gtIwGoM

FA: Karl Laczko, Aug 2023

Sit start on big jug 2/3 of the way into the roof just below the big shelf. Move out left using small scoop crimps with a big move to then finish through the hollow roof to the monkey bar. Drop off finish

FA: Aussie Edwards, Jun 2023

Sit start on ripple crimps. Dyno sideways to the jug. If you’re a comp climber you might find this enjoyable.

Start at the back of the cave and climb out via 'Belly of the Beast Low' to finish as 'Leonardo DaPinchi'. Pumpy, but there's a good no-hands kneebar rest before the final crux.

FA: Michael Taran, Aug 2023

Sit start undercling jug at edge of cave. Squeeze and wrestle your way to the monkeybar. Shelf is out. Burly as

Sds on double jug. Follow jug scoops then link using really small holds to Direct Finish. Hard. Low start would be even more mega.

The Backyard is just around the corner from the Camp Cave. Features tall top outs and warm ups on a featured face, and the Quokka Cave and the Inhuman Cave supply steep cranking for all.

SDS on obvious jug. Traverse left. Drop off.

SDS obvious jug. Harder than it looks.

SDS on obvious jug.

Pumpy traverse leads into hueco, continue traversing left to finish jug. Drop off. Highball finish?

Sds low. Traverse right then punch for the jug. Top out up tallest part of face.

Sds low. Top out.

Sds on rail low. Traverse out. Big move to gain upper holds, then steep and campus move to smack the lip. Watch the fall.

Rad easier mid start. Start on obvious jug hold and move up through big rails to a mellow, high finish.

Low start to Quokkblocked. Start low under the low roof on slopey rail feature. Come out and traverse slopey bulge to link into the midstart. Start is a bit low and dabby.

Sds on pocket feature. Press left into roof to gain rail then head back right. Finish up Quokkblokked finish

Fun midstart. Sds on boulder with good crimp feature. Big shouldery move out and head up the easy top out.

Sds on slopey rail in the scoop. Move over and then span out to the arete and fridge hug your way to a tall finish. Classic.

Same start. After span move exit right up slopes.

Step off the boulder up into the runnel, alternatively, walk down the runnel and hop onto the boulder.

Easiest way to get down and up, right above is the ledge you shimmy to get to upstream

Sit start low left crimp and right pinch. Squeezy goodness to the top. https://youtu.be/Atw5Ix07zkw?t=222

FA: Michael Taran, Aug 2023

A line of ridiculous tiny holds through the roof. Hard to comprehend ever moving between them.

Sds on jug. Massive spans/dyno through roof

The Property’s South-Eastern aspect showcases the striking scenery and waterfront position, whilst also granting easy access to highball bouldering in the terraced courtyard.

Start by jumping up the ramp to get the start jug. Stay on the steep face. Crux is at the top.

Jump up to the crimpy jugs, just below roof bulge on the arete, then swing dyno left to land feet on the slab and catch the side-pull crimpy jug in the centre of the slab (static earns you a downgrade). Then climb straight up the slab using the slopey crimps without using the jugs to the left. (obvious vertical crack between the two faces is out).

Set: Zachary Illingworth

FA: Connor Tetlaw, Jun 2023

Links the two best parts of the boulders. Banger.

Left ramp is out

Sds on edge. Get up into balancey layback to deadpoint. Then hold your nerve on the top

Stand start with the hole. Classy highball face.

SDS. Up slopes and ledges

Obvious jug to start

Link Warm Up into Contact

SDS slopes with heel, span to tiny left pocket then bust to crimp. Continue up insecure top. A good contact strength test

Gorgeous boulders nestled right on the bend of the river, with pebble landings!! Includes the massive Obelisk Boulder, with steep, thuggy, 3D climbing on incredible, river carved sandstone features.

Sds at bottom of arete. Straight up

Sds at bottom of arete with right under roof. Compress up arete then transition onto face and continue up edges to top out right. Aesthetic.

Sds under roof with two crap pockets. Lunge up to crimp and transition out of roof to finish up face.

Tall

FA: Dave Wong

Obelisk slab straight up

FA: Tom Pepper

Heinous slopey crimp lowball. Sds and trend right to top out. A little contrived.

FA: Tom Pepper

Tall, beautiful, sculpted.

Sds on left slopey feature. Pounce up for right pocket, then pounce some more. Exit sensibly up the left instead of committing up the face. Still kinda tall.

Start for GVO, but finish directly up tall pocketed face. Ballsy

FA: ZakH

Sds for GVO. Traverse low through scoops and features and finish for WM. Gymnastic!

Link the start of WM into the end of GVO via low traverse. Funky moves with knee bars as standard.

Start for WM and link up the pocketed face.

Sit start compressing features. Slap your way up beautifully sculpted holds to a heady top. Falling you would slide.

Sds low. Follow the feature to top out.

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Tue 25 Jul
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