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Nursery Cliffs Mostly Trad climbing 17 routes in cliff

17
AU
6912141618

Seasonality

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Description

This small easy cliff is separate to the main cliff at 'Kangaroo Point'. It has a series of (not very imaginatively named) climbs perfect for beginners.

Climbs are listed from left to right. There are bollards at the top for top rope anchors.

Access issues inherited from Kangaroo Point

The cliffs are part of the Brisbane City Council River Terrace Park. While the BCC is generally supportive of climbing, issues regarding access and facilities are ongoing. The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is the official voice of the climbing community in Queensland and works hard to improve the situation for all climbers. Please consider joining.

Approach

You can get to the base of the 'Nursery Cliffs' by walking up the metal stairs at the rightmost (southern) end of the main cliff, by walking down the stairs next to the gazebo on River Terrace or by walking/driving up Lower River Terrace off Ellis St.

The top is accessible directly off River Terrace.

Ethic inherited from Kangaroo Point

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • All top roping should be done through your own quickdraws to minimize wear on the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
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1
9 R Climb One Trad 10m

Up obvious slab, climbing the line of least resistance to top out.

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2
10 Climb Two Trad 10m

Start 10 m right. Up arête on right side using good holds all the way. Avoid the swing around the left side of the arête. Anchor from 2nd and 3rd balusters.

3
14 Climb Three Trad 10m

Start 2 m right. Scramble to crack in wall. Up this with nice protection to top out. Anchor from 3rd and 4th balusters

4
13 Climb Four Trad 10m

Start 3 m right. Shallow corner then traverse left and easy to top.

5
18 R ★ Climb Five Trad 10m

Start 4 m right. Delicately up to nose (BR). Over this small roof to protection in the horizontal crack. Reach jug and easy finish. Anchor from baluster 5.

6
6 Climb Six Trad 10m

Start 1 m right. Wandering line of least resistance to the corner and finish up this to top out. Anchor from baluster 6 and 7.

7
12 Climb Seven Trad 10m

Start 4 m right. Climb corner to below arête. Easily up this to top. Anchor from balusters 6 and 7.

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8
8 Climb Eight Trad 10m

Start 1 m right. Up slab to ledges and top out. Anchor from baluster 8.

9
8 Climb Nine Trad 10m

Start 2 m right. The line of least resistance up the easy ledges. Anchor from baluster 9.

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10
18 Climb Ten Trad 10m

Start 5 m right. Same start as for climb #11. Trend left then up seam on small pockets to top.

11
14 Climb Eleven Sport 10m

Start 1 m right. Very easy corner to below the vertical headwall. Up and right to the top. Now fully bolted.

12
10 Climb Twelve Sport 10m

Start 2 m right. Up blocks to a good stance. Mantle the ledge on the right and scramble out. Now fully bolted with practice anchors halfway.

13
10 Climb Thirteen Trad 10m

Start 3 m right. Up the overhung arete to stance. Continue up an easy wall to a crack in the headwall. Finish easily up this.

14
17 Climb Fourteen Trad 10m

Start 4 m right. Up the corner to below the big roof. Traverse right to crack and force overhang above to jugs and easy finish.

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15
17 ★ Climb Fifteen Mixed trad 10m, 1

Start 2m right of fourteen. Mantle slab start to ledge. Place a hex and smear up from the crack leftward up to second ledge. Plenty of pro options here before left up and over small overhang to find carrot bolt. Easy up and top out from here.

FFA: Alexander Xavier, 13 Jul 2019

16
14 ★ Climb Sixteen Trad 10m

Start 2m right of fifteen. Straight up the slab to the large ledge. There are two carrot bolts here, (good for top belay or multi pitch practice). Straight up from here to easy but chossy top out.

FFA: Alexander Xavier, 4 Aug 2019

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17
14 Climb Seventeen Trad 10m

Pure Choss. Rack your gardening tools.

FFA: Alexander Xavier, 4 Aug 2019

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Alexander Xavier on Climb Three 14 - Third placement

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