Right Main Wall Rock climbing 140 routes in cliff

Start as for 'Frontier Psychiatrist'.

Only if it has been dry for weeks. Up 'Frontier Psychiatrist' for first 3 bolts, putting a long runner (1.5m) on the third. Traverse L over choss, clip FH at start of waterfall bulge and up past another FH to anchor on ledge. Use all your ninja skills retrieving your clips.

Start at first line of bolts R of waterfall, 5m L of 'Junket'.

Nice crux start then follow line of 5 RBs just L of the tree to DBB. Relatively shady which is great on hot afternoons but then it does take a while to dry out after rain.

The 2013 SE Queensland guidebook lists this climb as 'Frontier Psychiatry'.

Traverse. Start at 'Frontier Psychiatrist'.

An alternate start to the 'Eddie Goes to Gay Bars' traverse which adds an extra pitch. Traverse R from 3rd bolt on 'Frontier Psychiatrist' to 3rd bolt on 'Idiot Wind' to join the usual 'Eddie Goes to Gay Bars'.

Trad line between 'Frontier Psychiatrist' and 'Junket' - The obvious crack. Very soft band of ignimbrite = very poor gear & poor climbing. Run-out at top. Follow left leaning crack, then right up to chains on Junket.

Start 2m L of 'Bouncy Castle'.

Up past 2 FHs to break. Overcome loose section past FH to drillhole overhang and final FH. Interesting crux pulling over this to slab and rap station.

Start as for Bouncy Castle, up past first 2 bolts of BC to small rooflet, up over this (clip BC's bolts as protection) & finish up easy wall at BC's anchors.

Not an enjoyable route & run-out from the 2nd bolt.

Up first two bolts as for Bouncy Castle then head out right to fun moves up trad crack with good gear before heading left to Bouncy Castle's anchors. Described previously on TheCrag as Busted Xylophone, however after noticing a major grading inconsistency and further consultation of the guidebook, this route is independent to the traditional Busted Xylophone route.

Start at the "PB" mark.

Ledges and crap rock in parts but still has some nice moves on it. Well protected. 5 RBs and lower-offs.

First ascent was done in drizzling rain with a visiting American climber that washed into Mountain Designs when Mick was working there.

Start 5m R of 'Pommy Bastard'. Marked "R".

Boulder start ('The Exterminator') to very high BR. Past further 3 BRs and finish at 'Dare to Dream' anchors.

Start 2m R of 'The Rasp'. Marked "DD".

More or less rebolted as 'Dare to Dream'. Straight up past 2 RBs, then sling the drill hole at 2/3 height. Original route might have continued L to join the final two BRs on 'The Rasp'.

Start as for 'Dolerite Dreaming'.

Essentially a rebolt of 'Dolerite Dreaming', maybe with a more direct finish. Up past two RBs and sling the drill hole. Continue straight up past two more RBs, traverse L under the roof and run it out to the anchor.

Start 2m L of 'Bombadil'.

First top roped as 'Kasper' in the '70s at grade 16, the passing decades and a passing Bosch have seen it evolve into a grade 21 sport route. 6 RBs, chains.

A DBB at the 4th bolt allows it to be climbed in 2 (admittedly very short) pitches, great for practicing multipitch skills in a safe environment.

Start 5m L of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TR".

Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors. A more direct finish was added when it was retrobolted, increasing the grade from 14 to 16.

Historic KP trad route. In today's terms; runout & dangerous in the upper half. Up onto large ledge at 2m (gear), tricky step up, then out right & up to sloping ledge at 5m., up headwall (more gear) above, then trend left, up along weakness & no gear till you get to the lefthand corner crack & top-out.

Start as for 'Idiot Wind'.

At the 3rd bolt on 'Idiot Wind' head straight up the headwall L of the 'Idiot Wind' flake past 2 BRs. The 1st is a desperate clip in the Mark Moorhead tradition, involving a thin crimp or a long reach to get to the bolt. Finish at the 'Idiot Wind' DBB.

Start at the "IW' mark.

Quality climbing. The testpiece of its grade at 'Kangaroo Point'. 5 RBs and anchors. There's a ground anchor just R of the base for lead rope soloing.

Be aware of the possibility of a nasty ledgefall between 4th and 5th bolts.

This route map shows it dodging around the small roof. I lead it direct, doing the nice balancey move as a part of the * experience, and I think others probably did too. (Michael Woodrow)

Traverse. Start at 'Idiot Wind'.

1. 20m (17) Up 'Idiot Wind' to 2nd bolt. Traverse R to belay on 'Hanger Wall'.

2. 15m (20) Traverse R on high line of 'Hanger Wall' to belay on 'Chip-a-Holdaway'.

3. 15m (12) Across to belay on last bolt of 'Euthanasia'.

Traverse. Start at 'Idiot Wind'.

1. 21m (17) Up 'Idiot Wind' to roof then traverse R and down to belay below 'Nic Chips Diffs' headwall.

2. 9m (17) Across 'Exhilarant' to belay on 'Gangbang Wall'.

3. 11m (20) Across to natural pro belay on 8m high ledge on 'Anonymous'.

4. 13m (17) To halfway ledge on 'Pterodactyl'.

5. 14m (22) To 'Moonlight Fantasia' ledge.

6. 20m (22) Finish up 'Adam's Rib'.

Start 2m R of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TSSO".

Clip the 1st RB on 'Idiot Wind' then head straight up the face past 3 BRs. Finish on a great sequence past a FH to the top. Be careful clipping the 2nd bolt because a groundfall is possible.

Start 2m R of 'The Stoats Stepped Out'. Faintly marked "S".

Layback up corner and reach L to clip BR. Through the crux and finish up the cracked face just L of 'Mission Impossible'. Committing.

Start just L of 'Another Girl Another Planet'. Marked "MI".

Straight up cracked corner past deep hole in rock to top. Run out on lead. Soloed on first free ascent.

Start just R of 'Mission Impossible'. Marked "AGAP".

Up the broken rock to ledge and very high RB. Head L through nice crux sequence up R side of 'Mission Impossible' arete to 2nd RB (don't fall, odds are you'll hit the ledge). Mantle up to slab then edge up past RB shared with '42 Wheels' to top. Seldom repeated on lead.

"Did the first ascent of this when bolting was a very sensitive issue. I had been heavily criticised for bolting 'Hanger Wall Arete' (instead of putting a wire in the crux pocket/crack to protect that move!), particularly by Evan Beiske if memory serves... anyway, AGAP was my response. Please note it was pretty bold as it didn't have a bolt protecting the crux, just a small, thin piton facing downwards! LOL... Evan whimpered on repeat and lowered onto the piton in horror when he couldn't do the move... :-0" (Mick Woodrow)

Start just R of 'Another Girl Another Planet'. Faintly marked "42W".

Easy start over dodgy rock (watch the wasp nest) to ledge and very high RB. Up face past RB on bulge to slab. Finish up slab past RB shared with 'AGAP' to top.

"After establishing this route and 'PITG', with nights of top rope rehearsal, I saw Paul Hoskins down at Roo Point on a Saturday morning. Puffed my chest out and told Paul about the routes... he repeated both, onsight, with a combined elapsed time of about 45 seconds..." (Mick Woodrow)

Named after a song by Hunters & Collectors.

Start 1m L of 'Dysentery'.

Climb easy wall to very high BR then up sharp arete to 2nd BR under triangular roof. Swing L to huge jug and FH. Then up steep face past BR to slab. Up slab past BR and FH to the DBB shared wth 'Dysentery'. The first 2 RBs on 'Dysentery' can be clipped to protect the start.

Start as for 'Dysentery'.

A slight variant to 'Dysentery' which makes it a bit harder and more runout. After the 3rd RB head straight up the steeper part of the headwall, skipping the usual 4th RB. Rejoin the original line at its 5th RB. Best done on top rope.

Start at "D" mark.

Up past 3 RBs then steeper moves R past 4th RB. Trend gently L onto slab and up past a RB and a FH to anchor shared with 'Nic Chips Diffs'.

Start as for 'Dysentery', marked "D".

At the 4th RB on 'Dysentery' veer R then up over roof, clipping 2 further RBs. Up slab above to DBB.

Start 3m R of 'Dysentery'.

Effectively bolts the way 'Bridal Party' was top roped for a few decades. Up easy slab to ledge and RB. Nice moves up steep face past 2nd RB to jug and 3rd RB. Mantle onto ledge and continue more easily past 2 RBs to DBB.

Start as for 'Exhilarant'.

Clip the BR in the middle of the steep face on the L part way up 'Exhilarant'. Bridge L to ledges then straight up past 2 further BRs to top out.

Start on arete 1m R of 'Exhilarant', 1m L of 'Gangbang Wall'.

Steep and balancy climbing, 'HWA' takes balance and commitment, while 'GBW' takes crimp strength and brawn. This route is great for climbers who lack the strength to crank through its neighbour, also fun for sandbagging musclebound tough-guys who have no technique.

Up arete clipping 1st 3 FHs shared with 'GBW'. Continue up arete above horizontal seam past further 3 FHs. Finish up easy slab to DBB shared with 'GBW' and 'Hanger Wall', optionally clipping 1 or 2 of the 'HW' BRs.

Start 2m R of 'Exhilarant'. Marked "GBW".

Steep cranking on quality sequence (of dubious origin). Up thin slab to L clipping 2 FHs shared with 'Hanger Wall Arete' to 3rd FH at horizontal seam. Head slightly R then straight up headwall past 2 further FHs. Finish up easy slab clipping BRs on 'Hanger Wall' if desired to DBB shared with 'HWA' and 'HW'.

Start at 'Gangbang Wall', marked "GBW".

Head straight up the face instead of L, clipping the high FH. Rejoins the original 'GBW' when that line traverses in from the L at the horizontal seam.

Start 2m R of 'Gangbang Wall'.

A bolt ladder aid climb up a line of about 15 BRs. Paul Hoskins "freed" this with the use of a bolted on "Grogan Road" street sign at grade 25. The last problem at 'KP' waiting to be truly freed.

Start at 'Hanger Wall', 1m L of usual 'Brisbane Bitter' start.

Climb past first 5 BRs on 'Hanger Wall' clipping 2 or 3, then join the usual 'Brisbane Bitter' line at its 2nd RB.

Start 2m R of 'Gangbang Wall', 2m L of 'XXXX'. Marked "BB".

Boulder start to RB then up nice seam past 4 more RBs to anchors. Hard finish.

Very cruxy.

Start 2m R of 'Brisbane Bitter', 1m L of 'Chip-a-Holdaway'. Marked "FX".

Solo up drillhole to very high RB. Up face past FH and RB, then pass the dyno crux to clip the final RB. Slightly R to DBB shared with 'Chip-a-Holdaway'.

Start 1m L of 'Anonymous' on right blank face of large ledge beneath high first FH.

Fantastic. Boulder start to ledge then up daunting wall on holds that just happen to be right where they're needed. 6 FHs then slightly L to anchors shared with 'XXXX'.

The route got its name when the pockets on the steepwall were created by chipping away the rock before the first ascent. Originally named Chip a Holloway after Darryn Holloway who chipped the pockets.

Described in the guidebook as a tough 22... this was before the crux hold broke off. Now it climbs similarly in difficulty to a 24.

Start 1m R of 'Chip-A-Holdaway'. Marked "A".

The original trad route. Up obvious corner (gear on left), then on up ledges to corner finish. Average protection at the start, can now be supplemented with the RBs on 'Anonymous DS' making it a good beginner trad lead.

Start on blank wall 1m R of 'Anonymous'.

Retrobolted version of the original 'Anonymous' with a more direct start. Balancy climbing up wall past 2 RBs. Then on up corners and ledges finishing either up corner on R or straight up thin moves on face for more of a challenge. 6 RBs and DBB.

Start 2m L of 'PITG'. Marked "SCB".

Follow the zigzag line of 6 RBs to lower-offs. There's a 7th RB above the anchor if you want to continue up the last section and top out instead.

Ensure that you and your belayer have good communication skills if leading this climb as the belayer can not see the climber when they reach the anchors because of the slab, you have to go halfway across the road to be able to see your climber at the anchors.

Start 1m R of usual 'Euthanasia' start.

WARNING: potential for a big groundfall before reaching the 2nd bolt. Straight up to roof, reach left and clip 1st BR on 'Euthanasia'. Then over roof and on to arete. Rejoin 'Euthanasia' at its 3rd BR. Also, there is a large loose, wobbly block in the bulgy crux section. Beware.

Start at big "PT" mark.

Nice climbing up past 5 RBs then run it out a bit up easy slab to anchors. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

Crux undercling came off winter 2015. The change is pretty minimal but it's probably a bit harder now.

A different start to 'Pterodactyl', starting 1m R.

Only minimally different to the standard 'Pterodactyl' and traverses L to join the usual route at halfway.

"I only got interested in leading the FFA of this route because it makes me the only person I know who can claim to have freed a Hot Henry Barber top-rope problem!" (Mick Woodrow)

This is a link-up that crosses Pterodactyl and Honed and Buffed. Climbs the face of Pterodactyl (not either of the aretes) for first 3 bolts. Series of thin and balanced holds. Then step right off the ledge onto the face. 1 small bomber nut in the obvious crack for pro. Then up and across face. Up the last 2 bolts of Honed and Buffed to anchors.

Start 1m L of 'Wages Of Fear'. Marked "HBu".

Up crap rock at start to high RB. Run it out to 2nd RB, then up slab past 2 further RBs to anchor. Crap start, nice middle and finish. Quite runout using just bolts but has good placements for wires.

Linkup. Up 'Honed and Buffed' to the first bolt, tricky crimp traverse to the 2nd bolt on 'Wages Of Fear'. Then crap yourself over to the 2nd bolt on 'Cucumber Castle'. Keep traversing over to the bolt at the bulge of 'Be A Robot For Jesus' then pull the bulge crux and finish up 'BARFJ'. Pretty fun.

Variant finish to 'Honed And Buffed'. Climb usual route to third bolt. Then head up and right, clipping either the 3rd bolt of 'HAB' or the 4th of 'Wages Of Fear', or placing a cam in the break. Clip the last bolt of 'Close But No Cigar' and head straight up to the 'WOF' anchors.

Variant finish to 'Wages Of Fear'. Climb usual route until 4th RB at break. From here head up and left past 1 RB, finishing at 'Honed And Buffed' anchors.

Sustained crimping until final awkward move. It's possible to go straight up and then do an awkward traverse but not as nice.

Warning Rock: Route perpetually wet @ Crux for last few months straight

Start 3m L of 'Cucumber Castle'. Marked "WF".

A 'KP' classic! Straight up line of 5 RBs to anchors. First RB is high but a bit easier to get to than the first on 'Cucumber Castle'.

Essentially Sinister Pathway lite. Climb CC to second bolt, traverses left to the second bolt on Wages, pull its crux, then traverse left at the break to finish up Honed. Fun!

Start 2m L of 'BARFJ'. Marked "CC".

Classic climb but potential for big falls so make sure you're solid at the grade if leading. Hard start to small ledge and high FH. Follow obvious line past 2nd & 3rd FHs. Above 3rd FH place cam in crack or run it out to 4th FH. Finish at DBB.

Start at large "BARFJ" mark.

Very sustained. Up smooth face to high RB. Continue past further 4 RBs and slightly R to anchor.

Dropped from grade 26 to 25 when a hold was "enhanced" in July 2006.

Start 1m R of 'BARFJ'. Marked "MF".

One of the few good natural lines at 'KP'. It is a shame that the upper layback crack was halved when the council decided to renovate in the mid 1990s by dynamiting it off! Neil Monteith added the new bolted finish when the dust settled.

Up pockets to small roof, then up layback crack on L to halfway ledge. Straight up past RB to crack. Either top out or use BARFJ anchors just L.

Start as for 'Moonlight Fantasia'.

At small roof, head straight up face to halfway ledge avoiding layback crack on L. From ledge finish as for 'Moonlight Fantasia'.

Linkup. Very, very nice. Up 'Bufo Marinus' to the bolt. Traverse L across 'Moonlight Fantasia' (place cam under block), then over to 1st bolt of 'Be A Robot For Jesus'. Do BARFJ's crux, then clip 2nd bolt on 'Cucumber Castle'. Traverse L across to 3rd bolt on 'Wages Of Fear' and do its crux. Traverse L across blankish wall to 'Honed And Buffed' and clip last 3 bolts of this route to anchors.

Start at 'By Ignorance'.

Not really a traverse but an easy L-tending scramble up to the 'Bufo Marinus' anchors. Often soloed to set up a top rope on 'Bufo Marinus'.

Start 1m R from the 'Bufo Marinus' arete. Marked "BI".

Up to halfway ledge at base of slab. Up slab to layback crack, then up this, R around bulge and top out.

Start as for 'Squawk', 2m L of 'Gobble'. Marked "SQ".

Climb up 'Squawk' until reaching the 2nd RB. From here go L up the improbable-looking face clipping the 3rd RB on the way to the top. Crimpy.

Start 2m L of 'Gobble'. Marked "SQ".

Sparsely bolted and therefore less often climbed than it would otherwise be. Up past high RB to 2nd RB at start of headwall. Climb headwall clipping 3rd RB to ledge. Climb the arete on the R to the top.

Start 2m L of 'Adam's Rib', 1m R of 'Gobble'.

Nice. Climb up clipping 2 RBs, then 2 FHs, then 1 more RB, then the anchor shared with 'Gobble'. Crux is mantling the bulge at the 3rd bolt.

Start at the massive "AR" mark.

Climb up the corner and face then on up to the large ledge with the corner two-thirds of the way up. From here climb the arete on the R to the top.

Start 2m R of 'Adam's Rib', where the "$♂" (dollar-man, get it?!) is painted about 4m off the ground.

Up the hard slots (wires) then finish up the 'Adam's Rib' arete.

Start 1m R of 'Dollarman'. Has the piranha at half height.

Hard start past the 1st FH to the slot that forms the piranha's mouth. Clip the 2nd FH. From here the original route tended L to continue up the 'Adam's Rib' arete but the 3rd bolt on 'Pocket Calculator' now leads you R and up to their shared DBB. 3 FHs.

Traverse. Start up 'Pocket Calculator' to 3rd bolt, then step left for 365m to finish up at 'The Olos Slab'. A fun day out, but really why would you unless you have a lot of time on your hands?

Start 2m L of 'Steaming Wally'. Marked "BDS".

Climb to slab and onward past the single BR to the top. Shiva is the goddess of death and the bird dance refers to an attempt to fly... the FFA hit the ground and was almost killed on this climb.

Start 2m L of 'Gigolo'.

One of the hardest climbs at KP, though it's very cruxy. Follow the line of 3 RBs (2nd has maillon) up the blunt arete to the ledge and anchors.

Start about 5m L of "JAFKPR", marked "G" (directly beneath "NPD").

Now a sport climb with its own bolts & lower-off. Climb the arête up a series of overhangs. Hard & sustained for the grade. 3RBs to DBB.

Start at marking "NPD".

Up the blank face just R of "Gigolo", avoiding its holds including avoiding any holds on the arête. Follows the line of 4 RBs (that have replaced the original 5 aid bolts) to anchors slightly R of last RB.

Start 1m L of 'Diagonal'. Marked "SH".

Now retrobolted as an easy beginner's lead. First bolt is easy to reach but high and move near the top is hard for the grade so more a lead for competent climbers learning to lead rather than outright beginners. 3 RBs to DBB.

Start behind jacaranda tree, 3m L of 'Moonlight Dilemma'. Marked "COD" (for 'Cloak Of Darkness').

Up ramp to high FH. Move on past 2 more FHs and run it out a little up to DBB shared with 'Mantlit'.

Start behind jacaranda tree about 15m L of 'Arete', and 2m right of Offal. Marked "MD".

Climbs better than it looks. Up twin choss cracks clipping bolts to the left. Head left at the ledge, and up balancy wall to chossy, crux rooflet. Breach the rooflet to the left, clip the last bolt on 'Offal' and finish at chains shared with 'Offal'.

FA Unknown, original line unknown

Start 1m L of 'Spidermonkey'.

Up onto the ledge and clip the RB. Climb the nice finger crack to the start of the slab at halfway. Up the slab clipping 2 RBs and finish at the DBB.

Start on the slab 5m L of 'Arete'.

Follow the line of 8 RBs to the DBB. An excellent beginner sport lead with easy but fun climbing and plenty of bolts to get those clips dialled.

Start at 'Spidermonkey'.

Nice beginner trad lead with good pro following the crack just R of 'Spidermonkey'. Finish at the 'Spidermonkey' DBB. Named after KP's well-known mascot - Proude's dog, Tash. (T.A.S.H)

Start at the arete about 10m L of 'Piles'. Marked "A".

Fun easy trad route. Up onto ledge with the big manky crambling crack. Head out right and up for a few fun moves over crappy gear around the 'roof' thing. Head right to belay off the fence near the top of the stairs. You could also do a dodgy traverse carefully to the anchor on 'White Dopes On Punk'.

Start on pinned face about 10m L of 'Piles' and 1m R of 'Arete'.

A much nicer climb than it looks at first glance. Dyno start to hold and first FH. Up obvious line past 2 more FHs. Break R onto ledge and anchor.

Named after the 1975 hit single from rock band The Tubes.

Start in corner 3m L of 'Pseudo-Cox'. Faintly marked "CC".

Climb awful face past a number of pins. From here the climb originally traversed L to corner and tree then upward to more wire netting. Now the tree has grown so large you'd be doing well to make it that far. Probably not worth the effort.

Start 2m L of 'Piles'. Marked "CO".

Follow shallow corner to under overhang, slinging the pin on the way. Place some gear then climb the overhang on its R side. Solo up the slabby arete to top.

Start at the first obvious cliff face at the rightmost (southern or Southbank) end of the main cliffs, behind the "Danger" sign. Marked "P".

Balancy and intense slab climbing. Climb R then L up vertical face past 2 RBs. Crimpy moves past 3rd RB lead to a jug and the halfway ledge. From ledge follow 3 RBs up thin slab to top. Large rings up over the lip provide anchors to rap or belay from. 6 RBs.

Start at the broken holds in front of the sign, just right of Piles & left of Cox's Edge. Thin moves to a very high first bolt (carrot), NOT using the big ledges out right. Up the face to gain the small ledge 7-8m up, standing on this, big reach to clip first bolt, more thin moves up to a big ledge & bomber trad gear (small cams), up flake (more gear: offset nuts + ballnuts), to high 2nd bolt, then top-out to Piles anchors.

Start on the short but surprisingly nice face buried in the jungle about 10m R of 'Piles'. Marked "SW".

Climb past 2 BRs and top out. Railings at the top provide easy anchors to rap or belay from, though it's pretty vegetated at the top too.