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Routes in Right Main Wall for selected grade

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Showing all 9 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
23 Bouncy Castle

Start 2m L of 'Pommy Bastard'.

Follow the line of 4 RBs to DBB. The crux is a difficult onsight but much easier on repeat.

FA: Unknown, 1980

Sport 18m, 4
23 Gangbang Wall

Start 2m R of 'Exhilarant'. Marked "GBW".

Steep cranking on quality sequence (of dubious origin). Up thin slab to L clipping 2 FHs shared with 'Hanger Wall Arete' to 3rd FH at horizontal seam. Head slightly R then straight up headwall past 2 further FHs. Finish up easy slab clipping BRs on 'Hanger Wall' if desired to DBB shared with 'HWA' and 'HW'[12212749].

FFA: Andrew Barry & Roger Bourne, 1984

Sport 18m, 5
23 R Gangbang Wall DS

Start at 'Gangbang Wall', marked "GBW".

Head straight up the face instead of L, clipping the high FH. Rejoins the original 'GBW' when that line traverses in from the L at the horizontal seam.

FA: Paul Hoskins, 1982

Sport 18m, 3
23 Bitter Gang Bang

Linkup. Climb past the crux of 'Gangbang Wall', then traverse R across 'Hanger Wall' and past 2 FHs to the 'Brisbane Bitter' anchors.

Sport 18m, 8
23 Cucumber Castle

Start 2m L of 'BARFJ'. Marked "CC".

Classic climb but potential for big falls so make sure you're solid at the grade if leading. Hard start to small ledge and high FH. Follow obvious line past 2nd & 3rd FHs. Above 3rd FH place cam in crack or run it out to 4th FH. Finish at DBB.

FA: Rob Staszewski, 1970

FFA: Andrew Barry & Paul Hoskins, 1984

Sport 18m, 4
23 Jesus Ate My Cucumber

Linkup. Up 'Cucumber Castle' to break, finish up last bit of 'BARFJ'.

Sport 18m
23 R Amnesia

Climb 'Bird Dance For Shiva' to halfway. Swing L into blank corner with crack. Up crack past piton(!). Finish R at 'Steaming Wally' chains.

FA: Lee Cujes & Erik Smits, 2002

Sport 13m, 2
23 R Bird Dance For Shiva

Start 2m L of 'Steaming Wally'. Marked "BDS".

Climb to slab and onward past the single BR to the top. Shiva is the goddess of death and the bird dance refers to an attempt to fly... the FFA hit the ground and was almost killed on this climb.

FA: Michael Woodrow, 1986

Sport 13m, 1
23 Nic Pic Dics

Start at marking "NPD".

Up the blank face just R of "Gigolo", avoiding its holds including avoiding any holds on the arête. Follows the line of 4 RBs (that have replaced the original 5 aid bolts) to anchors slightly R of last RB.

FA: Ted Cais, 1969

FFA: Andrew Barry, 1985

Sport 13m, 4

Showing all 9 routes.

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