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Bouldering Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Dan Roe Jake Forker jayden desmond Frank Evans Corey Low Hayden Terry Svingen Billy Rix

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Bouldering 85 routes in Field

Summary:
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F
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A
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Seasonality

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -27.475163, 153.034421

description

It's rare to be at 'Kangaroo Point' and not see at least one person bouldering their way along the base of the cliff. Much less common is seeing someone bouldering with any degree of intent beyond working on their finger strength while their mates are too busy to climb. The reason for this is that, well, 'KP' just isn't that great for bouldering. But of course, no cliff could be climbed by so many without someone coming up with some boulder problems and to be fair, there are a few decent ones scattered around.

Other places to boulder in 'Brisbane' include 'Toohey Forest' and 'Springwood Conservation Park'.

access issues

The cliffs are part of the Brisbane City Council River Terrace Park. While the BCC is generally supportive of climbing, issues regarding access and facilities are ongoing. The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is the official voice of the climbing community in Queensland and works hard to improve the situation for all climbers. Please consider joining.

inherited from Kangaroo Point

ethic

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • All top roping should be done through your own quickdraws to minimize wear on the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
inherited from Kangaroo Point

history

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pocket Puller V5 Boulder 4m
2 Movements

Superclassic!

Start R2, L3, M3, L4, R5, L7, R14, L17, M7, MF6.

V5 Boulder 4m
3 Power Gamin

M6, L18, R11, M11, R15, M15.

V2 Boulder
4 Thank God I'm Not ...

M6, L7, R3, L23, then right hand to big jug just out of picture.

V2 Boulder
5 Star Jumps

Sit start in the arch shaped feature on 1 and 2. 'Layback' up the finger crack to the jugs above the V.

Start: The crack between the climbs marked SR and SRO.

V2 Boulder
6 B-Sharp Dyno

Like the 'G Dyno', except start on the next under cling to the left.

V4 Boulder
7 Footloose

Sit start using the pocket for your left hand and the toothless under cling for your right. Go right and up without using the low ledge.

V3 Boulder
8 Bloody Finger

Sit start on hold one, without using the low ledge to the left. Use the pocket at 2 to get to pocket at 3.

V1 Boulder
9 Pinch me

Sit start at hold 1. Reach up and pinch 4. Head left to pocket at 3.

V1 Boulder
10 Elm Street

Stand start L hand sidepull/undercling, R hand Sloper around the arete, small block on ledge is ok to use for feet, bring pads. Move up using heels and side-pulls, top-out scary but secure, walk down around the back . next to Riverlife / where the fish problem is. A bit of a highball, v5-v6 but could be quite a bit harder.

BoulderProject 5m
11 The Fish Problem

One of the most least contrived problems on the whole cliff.

V7 Boulder
12 Gut Busting

Follow numbers from 1 to 9.

V3 Boulder
13 Mini Mantle

Dwarf special?...

Mantle the banned area from a sit start?

V0 Boulder
14 Seppuku by Big-Bro

M21, R22, M22, R10, M10, R26, M26, R15, M15, R13, L12.

FA: Dan Roe, 2006

V3 Boulder
15 Smooth Like A Cow On Roller Skate

R9, L10, R12 (pinch), M12, R22, L23.

V3 Boulder
16 Jump-a-hold-away

Run at the slab and jump to the big jug, mantle onto the ledge.

V1 Boulder 3m
17 Beer for Breakfast

L5, R16, L using the seam between 23 and 19 (optional), R10, M10.

V2 Boulder
18 Shannon and the Cigarette Lighter V4 Boulder
19 Campus

Campus across the jugs to the left of the "Around the World" problem.

V3 Boulder 3m
20 Fuck Hip Hop, Wear a Belt

A cool variation of the previous problem.

M20, L22, M22, R10, M10, R26, M26, R14, M14, L12.

FA: Dan Roe, 2007

V3 Boulder
21 Bust a Boiler

M6, L7, R15, M15.

V3 Boulder 2m
22 Toothless

Using the undercling just left of FOBS. Using funky feet, deadpoint the little jug above the bulge. If you don't stick it, watch you don't smash your face on the way back down...

Start: To the right of the 'SIN' graffiti

V2 Boulder
23 Blood on the Tracks

Run up the wall to the sharp jug a couple of feet above and slightly to the right of the IW marking.

V2 Boulder 3m
24 Popup

Standing start.

V2 Boulder
25 Mr Pinchy Takes A Bath

M20, L22, R25, L28.

V3 Boulder
26 Ninja Boner

M6, L18 (undercling), R7, L11, M11.

V6 Boulder
27 Mega Traverse

From Playschool all the way down to More Bolts Than Meters.

V7 Boulder
28 Twister

One of the best dyno's at the crag.

V4 Boulder
29 White Girls Can't Hump

M1, L5, M5 (gaston), R6, M6

V1 Boulder
30 Drive it like a Volvo

Funky variety of moves.

V4 Boulder
31 Nut Buster

Follow the numbers to 6 then straight up to 10.

V2 Boulder
32 The Big Dyno

M8, M23

V7 Boulder
33 G Dyno

Match the undercling to the left of the CH paint marker. Dyno to the big ledge and mantle onto it.

V5 Boulder
34 Balance Problem

Starting on the small ledge about 2m left of 'Around The World'. Using only your legs (no hands/leaning). Traverse left around the corner to MOBS. Or do it the opposite way.

V2 Boulder
35 Pumpalicious

Pumpy little circuit.

V3 Boulder
36 Heel Hook

A bit left of 'Gangbang Wall' is a climb marked "Ex". From a sit start heel hook the big jug and rock on up and over.

V0 Boulder
37 Anti Slab

Match the holds just right of the CH paint marker. Dyno to the big ledge and mantle onto it.

V6 Boulder
38 Dance Like A Robot

Run at the face and use the small step/jug below the BARFJ paint marker to dyno to the jug just above the 'O' in the faint LOST graffiti.

V3 Boulder
39 Monkeys

Sit start using holds 4 and 6. Straight up to 15.

V3 Boulder
40 Gruntologist

No starting from mats or kneebars... M6 (arm bars allowed), R30, M30.

V3 Boulder
41 Jump Up

Standing start.

V2 Boulder
42 Ninjas and Hamburgers

Using the side clings on either side, dyno to the jug over the bulge.

Start: To the left of MOBS, left of the 'SIN' graffiti.

V3 Boulder
43 Fish Tail

The arete behind the fish sculpture.

V3 Boulder
44 Big heel hook

Sit start 2m right of 'By Ignorance' below 1m high ledge. Chinup, smear and heel hook to stand on top of ledge.

V0 Boulder
45 Split my Sides

M21, R22, M22, R10, M10.

V3 Boulder
46 Power Gambit

M6, L18 (undercling), R11, M11

V5 Boulder 3m
47 Chubba Chips Mods Start

Boulder the start of 'Chubba Chips Mods'.

Balance up to small holds & dyno to big sharp jug. Traverse R & downclimb to finish.

V1 Boulder 3m
48 The Bulge V1 Boulder 2m
49 Drill Hole Left

Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole using only the L side.

V0 Boulder 3m
50 Drill Hole

Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole.

V1 Boulder 3m
51 Drill Hole Right

Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole using only the R side.

V0 Boulder 3m
52 Around The World

Follow the numbers to 14 then rinse and repeat.

V1 Boulder 4m
53 The Exterminator

Boulder start 'The Rasp', marked "R".

L13, R9, heel hook 9, R17, L16, R22, M22

FA: Roger Bourne, 1984

V3 Boulder 6m
54 Idiot Wind Low Traverse

Watch the polished feet.

V1 Boulder 3m
55 Idiot Wind High Traverse - Left to Right V4 Boulder 3m
56 The COVID Route

UQ didn't allow me into their pool this morning.... I was too 'covidish'

Went to KP instead.

In the carpark, I traversed the wall at about 1.2m. Obeyed the 'No Standing' sign (style points for lateral thought), kissed the disabled sign (you can do this wearing your best mask). Inspect each tree carefully for bats.

From here it's choose your own adventure.

FA: Frank Evans, 2 Feb 2022

V1 BoulderProject 50m
57 CANT DELETE

CANT DELETE

FA: 2 Feb 2022

V1 BoulderProject 50m
58 Idiot Wind Direct

Standing start at 'Idiot Wind', directly below the "IW" mark. Couple of tricky moves to reach the jug way up to the L.

V3 Boulder
59 Idiot Wind High Traverse - Right to Left V3 Boulder 3m
60 Gangbang Wall (low traverse)

Use any of the following hold: 1, 4, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 14, 15, 17 in order to get match 21.

V1 Boulder 4m
61 Gangbang Wall (high traverse)

M1, R5, L2, R8, L34 (optional), R30, M30.

V3 Boulder
62 Slippery Slab

FA: D.Comerford/H.Riley, 2006

V2 Boulder 4m
63 Chip-a-Holdaway Start

Boulder up start of 'Chip-a-Holdaway' to ledge.

V1 Boulder 2m
64 Fantastic

Boulder start 'Anonymous Arete'.

FA: Gordon Bieske, 1984

V0 Boulder 5m
65 The Big Traverse

Test your stamina and endurance across about 250m of rock. There used to be a fig tree that grew up the cliff at Tigers Stripe.

Start at Moonlight Fantasia and finish just after Tiger Stripe where the Fig tree once lived.

V1 Boulder 200m
66 BARFJ Sit Start

Sit start on small rail just left/under BARFJ marking. Move up to good rail. Continue up until you reach jug in line with the "B" in BARFJ.

V2 Boulder 3m
67 BARFJ Traverse

Start in crack left of CC, finish on jugs above MF.

V3 Boulder 3m
68 Moonlight Fantasia Traverse

One of the hardest boulder problems on the cliff.

V7 Boulder
69 Bufo Marinus (easy)

Start between 'Moonlight Fantasia' and 'Bufo Marinus' until just below small roof, then join 'Bufo Marinus'.

V3 Boulder 8m
70 DELETE

DELETE

Boulder 8m
71 Bufo Marinus Traverse V6 Boulder 4m
72 Rankin's Rape VF

FA: H.Riley, 2006

V2 Boulder 3m
73 Rankin's Rape

FA: Robert Rankin, 1972

V0 Boulder 4m
74 Cox's Rape

FA: H.Riley, 2006

V1 Boulder 3m
75 Rib Tickler

Start matched on big undercling left of FOBS (#16), L13, M14, R18, L17, R5, L3, M4

V3 Boulder 4m
76 Warm Apple Pie

Start matched on big undercling (#16), left hand up to shallow two finger pocket just below #13, M14

V4 Boulder 2m
77 Gastons Of The Galaxy

Start matched on small sloper between #2 and #3 to left of MOBS marking, L5, M6

V3 Boulder 3m
78 Atension Whore

One move wonder. Located in the bulge area near Tigers Eye. Sit start. M6, L11, M11. Could be hard V2/easy V3

V3 Boulder 1m
79 Gassed On

Very contrived. Start in the corner between Baby Steps and Breakout, using only palming and gastons, make your way to the top of the groove and finish matched on the jug.

V0 Boulder 3m
80 Spider to Bufo Traverse

Start at Spider Monkey and work your way left along the base of the cliff until you reach Bufo Marinus. It is easy to tell once you've reached this point as the climbing becomes significantly thinner.

V0 Boulder 75m
81 Bufo to Spider Traverse

Start just right of Bufo Marinus slab and traverse right until you reach Spidermonkey.

V0 Boulder 75m
82 Left Main Wall Traverse

Start at Plunging for Mudbunnies (as close to the garden that splits the Left and Right wall as you can) and finish at More Bolts Than Meters.

V2 Boulder 180m
83 Bust out

R6, L18,R7,L10, R12,Match on the shitty slopey hold at the top above #10.

V4 Boulder
84 FOBS start

R8, L9, R13, M13, R14, M14, L15.

V0 Boulder 3m
85 MOBS start

L1, R2, L3, R4, R5, M6.

V0 - 1 Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
V0 Big heel hook Boulder
Bufo to Spider Traverse Boulder 75m
Drill Hole Left Boulder 3m
Drill Hole Right Boulder 3m
FOBS start Boulder 3m
Fantastic Boulder 5m
Gassed On Boulder 3m
Heel Hook Boulder
Mini Mantle Boulder
Rankin's Rape Boulder 4m
Spider to Bufo Traverse Boulder 75m
V0 - 1 MOBS start Boulder
V1 Around The World Boulder 4m
Bloody Finger Boulder
CANT DELETE BoulderProject 50m
Chip-a-Holdaway Start Boulder 2m
Chubba Chips Mods Start Boulder 3m
Cox's Rape Boulder 3m
Drill Hole Boulder 3m
Gangbang Wall (low traverse) Boulder 4m
Idiot Wind Low Traverse Boulder 3m
Jump-a-hold-away Boulder 3m
Pinch me Boulder
The Big Traverse Boulder 200m
The Bulge Boulder 2m
The COVID Route BoulderProject 50m
White Girls Can't Hump Boulder
V2 BARFJ Sit Start Boulder 3m
Balance Problem Boulder
Beer for Breakfast Boulder
Blood on the Tracks Boulder 3m
Jump Up Boulder
Left Main Wall Traverse Boulder 180m
Nut Buster Boulder
Popup Boulder
Power Gamin Boulder
Rankin's Rape VF Boulder 3m
Slippery Slab Boulder 4m
Star Jumps Boulder
Thank God I'm Not ... Boulder
Toothless Boulder
V3 Atension Whore Boulder 1m
BARFJ Traverse Boulder 3m
Bufo Marinus (easy) Boulder 8m
Bust a Boiler Boulder 2m
Campus Boulder 3m
Dance Like A Robot Boulder
Fish Tail Boulder
Footloose Boulder
Fuck Hip Hop, Wear a Belt Boulder
Gangbang Wall (high traverse) Boulder
Gastons Of The Galaxy Boulder 3m
Gruntologist Boulder
Gut Busting Boulder
Idiot Wind Direct Boulder
Idiot Wind High Traverse - Right to Left Boulder 3m
Monkeys Boulder
Mr Pinchy Takes A Bath Boulder
Ninjas and Hamburgers Boulder
Pumpalicious Boulder
Rib Tickler Boulder 4m
Seppuku by Big-Bro Boulder
Smooth Like A Cow On Roller Skate Boulder
Split my Sides Boulder
The Exterminator Boulder 6m
V4 B-Sharp Dyno Boulder
Bust out Boulder
Drive it like a Volvo Boulder
Idiot Wind High Traverse - Left to Right Boulder 3m
Shannon and the Cigarette Lighter Boulder
Twister Boulder
Warm Apple Pie Boulder 2m
V5 G Dyno Boulder
Movements Boulder 4m
Pocket Puller Boulder 4m
Power Gambit Boulder 3m
V6 Anti Slab Boulder
Bufo Marinus Traverse Boulder 4m
Ninja Boner Boulder
V7 Mega Traverse Boulder
Moonlight Fantasia Traverse Boulder
The Big Dyno Boulder
The Fish Problem Boulder
? DELETE Boulder 8m
Elm Street BoulderProject 5m
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