A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Dan Roe Jake Forker jayden desmond Frank Evans Corey Low Hayden Terry Svingen Moby Billy Rix Brendan Heywood
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Bouldering 85 in Field
- 2. Index by grade
1. Bouldering 85 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.475163, 153.034421
- All top roping should be done through your own quickdraws to minimize wear on the anchors.
- Don't ever chip holds.
- Don't paint on any new initials.
- Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
description
It's rare to be at 'Kangaroo Point' and not see at least one person bouldering their way along the base of the cliff. Much less common is seeing someone bouldering with any degree of intent beyond working on their finger strength while their mates are too busy to climb. The reason for this is that, well, 'KP' just isn't that great for bouldering. But of course, no cliff could be climbed by so many without someone coming up with some boulder problems and to be fair, there are a few decent ones scattered around.
Other places to boulder in 'Brisbane' include 'Toohey Forest' and 'Springwood Conservation Park'.
access issues
The cliffs are part of the Brisbane City Council River Terrace Park. While the BCC is generally supportive of climbing, issues regarding access and facilities are ongoing. The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is the official voice of the climbing community in Queensland and works hard to improve the situation for all climbers. Please consider joining.
ethic
Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:
history
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pocket Puller | V5 | 4m | |||
2 |
★★ Movements
Superclassic! Start R2, L3, M3, L4, R5, L7, R14, L17, M7, MF6. | V5 | 4m | |||
3 |
Power Gamin
M6, L18, R11, M11, R15, M15. | V2 | ||||
4 |
Thank God I'm Not ...
M6, L7, R3, L23, then right hand to big jug just out of picture. | V2 | ||||
5 |
Star Jumps
Sit start in the arch shaped feature on 1 and 2. 'Layback' up the finger crack to the jugs above the V. Start: The crack between the climbs marked SR and SRO. | V2 | ||||
6 |
B-Sharp Dyno
Like the 'G Dyno', except start on the next under cling to the left. | V4 | ||||
7 |
Footloose
Sit start using the pocket for your left hand and the toothless under cling for your right. Go right and up without using the low ledge. | V3 | ||||
8 |
Bloody Finger
Sit start on hold one, without using the low ledge to the left. Use the pocket at 2 to get to pocket at 3. | V1 | ||||
9 |
Pinch me
Sit start at hold 1. Reach up and pinch 4. Head left to pocket at 3. | V1 | ||||
10 |
★★ Elm Street
Stand start L hand sidepull/undercling, R hand Sloper around the arete, small block on ledge is ok to use for feet, bring pads. Move up using heels and side-pulls, top-out scary but secure, walk down around the back . next to Riverlife / where the fish problem is. A bit of a highball, v5-v6 but could be quite a bit harder. | 5m | ||||
11 |
★★ The Fish Problem
One of the most least contrived problems on the whole cliff. | V7 | ||||
12 |
Gut Busting
Follow numbers from 1 to 9. | V3 | ||||
13 |
Mini Mantle
Dwarf special?... Mantle the banned area from a sit start? | V0 | ||||
14 |
Seppuku by Big-Bro
M21, R22, M22, R10, M10, R26, M26, R15, M15, R13, L12. FA: Dan Roe, 2006 | V3 | ||||
15 |
Smooth Like A Cow On Roller Skate
R9, L10, R12 (pinch), M12, R22, L23. | V3 | ||||
16 |
★ Jump-a-hold-away
Run at the slab and jump to the big jug, mantle onto the ledge. | V1 | 3m | |||
17 |
Beer for Breakfast
L5, R16, L using the seam between 23 and 19 (optional), R10, M10. | V2 | ||||
18 | Shannon and the Cigarette Lighter | V4 | ||||
19 |
★ Campus
Campus across the jugs to the left of the "Around the World" problem. | V3 | 3m | |||
20 |
Fuck Hip Hop, Wear a Belt
A cool variation of the previous problem. M20, L22, M22, R10, M10, R26, M26, R14, M14, L12. FA: Dan Roe, 2007 | V3 | ||||
21 |
★ Bust a Boiler
M6, L7, R15, M15. | V3 | 2m | |||
22 |
Toothless
Using the undercling just left of FOBS. Using funky feet, deadpoint the little jug above the bulge. If you don't stick it, watch you don't smash your face on the way back down... Start: To the right of the 'SIN' graffiti | V2 | ||||
23 |
Blood on the Tracks
Run up the wall to the sharp jug a couple of feet above and slightly to the right of the IW marking. | V2 | 3m | |||
24 |
Popup
Standing start. | V2 | ||||
25 |
Mr Pinchy Takes A Bath
M20, L22, R25, L28. | V3 | ||||
26 |
Ninja Boner
M6, L18 (undercling), R7, L11, M11. | V6 | ||||
27 |
★★ Mega Traverse
From Playschool all the way down to More Bolts Than Meters. | V7 | ||||
28 |
Twister
One of the best dyno's at the crag. | V4 | ||||
29 |
White Girls Can't Hump
M1, L5, M5 (gaston), R6, M6 | V1 | ||||
30 |
Drive it like a Volvo
Funky variety of moves. | V4 | ||||
31 |
Nut Buster
Follow the numbers to 6 then straight up to 10. | V2 | ||||
32 |
The Big Dyno
M8, M23 | V7 | ||||
33 |
G Dyno
Match the undercling to the left of the CH paint marker. Dyno to the big ledge and mantle onto it. | V5 | ||||
34 |
★ Balance Problem
Starting on the small ledge about 2m left of 'Around The World'. Using only your legs (no hands/leaning). Traverse left around the corner to MOBS. Or do it the opposite way. | V2 | ||||
35 |
Pumpalicious
Pumpy little circuit. | V3 | ||||
36 |
Heel Hook
A bit left of 'Gangbang Wall' is a climb marked "Ex". From a sit start heel hook the big jug and rock on up and over. | V0 | ||||
37 |
Anti Slab
Match the holds just right of the CH paint marker. Dyno to the big ledge and mantle onto it. | V6 | ||||
38 |
Dance Like A Robot
Run at the face and use the small step/jug below the BARFJ paint marker to dyno to the jug just above the 'O' in the faint LOST graffiti. | V3 | ||||
39 |
Monkeys
Sit start using holds 4 and 6. Straight up to 15. | V3 | ||||
40 |
Gruntologist
No starting from mats or kneebars... M6 (arm bars allowed), R30, M30. | V3 | ||||
41 |
Jump Up
Standing start. | V2 | ||||
42 |
Ninjas and Hamburgers
Using the side clings on either side, dyno to the jug over the bulge. Start: To the left of MOBS, left of the 'SIN' graffiti. | V3 | ||||
43 |
Fish Tail
The arete behind the fish sculpture. | V3 | ||||
44 |
Big heel hook
Sit start 2m right of 'By Ignorance' below 1m high ledge. Chinup, smear and heel hook to stand on top of ledge. | V0 | ||||
45 |
Split my Sides
M21, R22, M22, R10, M10. | V3 | ||||
46 |
★ Power Gambit
M6, L18 (undercling), R11, M11 | V5 | 3m | |||
47 |
★ Chubba Chips Mods Start
Boulder the start of 'Chubba Chips Mods'. Balance up to small holds & dyno to big sharp jug. Traverse R & downclimb to finish. | V1 | 3m | |||
48 | The Bulge | V1 | 2m | |||
49 |
Drill Hole Left
Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole using only the L side. | V0 | 3m | |||
50 |
★ Drill Hole
Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole. | V1 | 3m | |||
51 |
Drill Hole Right
Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole using only the R side. | V0 | 3m | |||
52 |
★ Around The World
Follow the numbers to 14 then rinse and repeat. | V1 | 4m | |||
53 |
★ The Exterminator
Boulder start 'The Rasp', marked "R". L13, R9, heel hook 9, R17, L16, R22, M22 FA: Roger Bourne, 1984 | V3 | 6m | |||
54 |
★ Idiot Wind Low Traverse
Watch the polished feet. | V1 | 3m | |||
55 | Idiot Wind High Traverse - Left to Right | V4 | 3m | |||
56 |
The COVID Route
UQ didn't allow me into their pool this morning.... I was too 'covidish' Went to KP instead. In the carpark, I traversed the wall at about 1.2m. Obeyed the 'No Standing' sign (style points for lateral thought), kissed the disabled sign (you can do this wearing your best mask). Inspect each tree carefully for bats. From here it's choose your own adventure. FA: Frank Evans, 2 Feb 2022 | V1 | 50m | |||
57 |
CANT DELETE
CANT DELETE FA: 2 Feb 2022 | V1 | 50m | |||
58 |
Idiot Wind Direct
Standing start at 'Idiot Wind', directly below the "IW" mark. Couple of tricky moves to reach the jug way up to the L. | V3 | ||||
59 | ★ Idiot Wind High Traverse - Right to Left | V3 | 3m | |||
60 |
★★ Gangbang Wall (low traverse)
Use any of the following hold: 1, 4, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 14, 15, 17 in order to get match 21. | V1 | 4m | |||
61 |
Gangbang Wall (high traverse)
M1, R5, L2, R8, L34 (optional), R30, M30. | V3 | ||||
62 |
★ Slippery Slab
FA: D.Comerford/H.Riley, 2006 | V2 | 4m | |||
63 |
★ Chip-a-Holdaway Start
Boulder up start of 'Chip-a-Holdaway' to ledge. | V1 | 2m | |||
64 |
Fantastic
Boulder start 'Anonymous Arete'. FA: Gordon Bieske, 1984 | V0 | 5m | |||
65 |
★ The Big Traverse
Test your stamina and endurance across about 250m of rock. There used to be a fig tree that grew up the cliff at Tigers Stripe. Start at Moonlight Fantasia and finish just after Tiger Stripe where the Fig tree once lived. | V1 | 200m | |||
66 |
BARFJ Sit Start
Sit start on small rail just left/under BARFJ marking. Move up to good rail. Continue up until you reach jug in line with the "B" in BARFJ. | V2 | 3m | |||
67 |
★ BARFJ Traverse
Start in crack left of CC, finish on jugs above MF. | V3 | 3m | |||
68 |
★ Moonlight Fantasia Traverse
One of the hardest boulder problems on the cliff. | V7 | ||||
69 |
Bufo Marinus (easy)
Start between 'Moonlight Fantasia' and 'Bufo Marinus' until just below small roof, then join 'Bufo Marinus'. | V3 | 8m | |||
70 |
★★★ DELETE
DELETE | 8m | ||||
71 | ★★ Bufo Marinus Traverse | V6 | 4m | |||
72 |
★ Rankin's Rape VF
FA: H.Riley, 2006 | V2 | 3m | |||
73 |
★ Rankin's Rape
FA: Robert Rankin, 1972 | V0 | 4m | |||
74 |
★ Cox's Rape
FA: H.Riley, 2006 | V1 | 3m | |||
75 |
★ Rib Tickler
Start matched on big undercling left of FOBS (#16), L13, M14, R18, L17, R5, L3, M4 | V3 | 4m | |||
76 |
★★ Warm Apple Pie
Start matched on big undercling (#16), left hand up to shallow two finger pocket just below #13, M14 | V4 | 2m | |||
77 |
Gastons Of The Galaxy
Start matched on small sloper between #2 and #3 to left of MOBS marking, L5, M6 | V3 | 3m | |||
78 |
★ Atension Whore
One move wonder. Located in the bulge area near Tigers Eye. Sit start. M6, L11, M11. Could be hard V2/easy V3 | V3 | 1m | |||
79 |
Gassed On
Very contrived. Start in the corner between Baby Steps and Breakout, using only palming and gastons, make your way to the top of the groove and finish matched on the jug. | V0 | 3m | |||
80 |
★★ Spider to Bufo Traverse
Start at Spider Monkey and work your way left along the base of the cliff until you reach Bufo Marinus. It is easy to tell once you've reached this point as the climbing becomes significantly thinner. | V0 | 75m | |||
81 |
★★ Bufo to Spider Traverse
Start just right of Bufo Marinus slab and traverse right until you reach Spidermonkey. | V0 | 75m | |||
82 |
★ Left Main Wall Traverse
Start at Plunging for Mudbunnies (as close to the garden that splits the Left and Right wall as you can) and finish at More Bolts Than Meters. | V2 | 180m | |||
83 |
Bust out
R6, L18,R7,L10, R12,Match on the shitty slopey hold at the top above #10. | V4 | ||||
84 |
★ FOBS start
R8, L9, R13, M13, R14, M14, L15. | V0 | 3m | |||
85 |
MOBS start
L1, R2, L3, R4, R5, M6. | V0 - 1 |