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description

Start 1m R of 'BARFJ'. Marked "MF".

One of the few good natural lines at 'KP'. It is a shame that the upper layback crack was halved when the council decided to renovate in the mid 1990s by dynamiting it off! Neil Monteith added the new bolted finish when the dust settled.

Up pockets to small roof, then up layback crack on L to halfway ledge. Straight up past RB to crack. Either top out or use BARFJ anchors just L.

© (gremlin)

Route history

1968First ascent: Paul Caffyn & Rick White

Grade 18

1995First ascent: Monty Curtis

Restablished post BCC works

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -27.48020, 153.03338

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

19 Assigned grade
19 Kangaroo Point
19 Kangaroo Point Climbing Guide
19 ** ACA Route Register
20 [19 - 20] ++ grAId

ethic

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • All top roping should be done through your own quickdraws to minimize wear on the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
inherited from Kangaroo Point

Seasonality

J
F
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A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 64 from 122 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 20
Flash 3
Red point 20
Tick 73
Pink point 2
Top rope 115
Attempt 47
Target 4

Comment keywords

nice fun awesome beautiful super good enjoyable great classic fantastic hard struggle crux tough pumped committing tricky mantle crack feet layback traverse crazy reachy interesting pockets balancy

Activity

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