Help

Access: Closures 2nd half of 2021

BCC will be replacing a few select bollards (7 have already been removed), along the top at KP in the last half of 2021, meaning sections of the cliff below these works will be closed temporarily.

See warning details and discuss

Created 13 weeks ago

description

Start 1m L of 'Anonymous' on right blank face of large ledge beneath high first FH.

Fantastic. Boulder start to ledge then up daunting wall on holds that just happen to be right where they're needed. 6 FHs then slightly L to anchors shared with 'XXXX'.

The route got its name when the pockets on the steepwall were created by chipping away the rock before the first ascent. Originally named Chip a Holloway after Darryn Holloway who chipped the pockets.

Described in the guidebook as a tough 22... this was before the crux hold broke off. Now it climbs similarly in difficulty to a 24.

Route history

Oct 1998First free ascent: Andrew Horchner & Steven McMillan

Warnings

16 Jan 2021 Flora and Fauna: Wasp Nest Resolved
14 Jul 2021 Warning Access: Closures 2nd half of 2021

Location

Lat/Lon: -27.48020, 153.03338

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

22 Assigned grade
22 Hyahno Moser
22 Paul Slattery
22 Bjorn Lyngwa
22(S) Kangaroo Point Climbing Guide
22 [22 - 22] grAId
23 Kurt Doherty
23(S) Kangaroo Point
24 hipyhop
24 JSBC
24 Troy McAndrew

ethic

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • All top roping should be done through your own quickdraws to minimize wear on the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
inherited from Kangaroo Point

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 71 from 202 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 10
Flash 5
Red point 137
Pink point 54
Tick 77
Top rope 74
Attempt 349
Target 7

Comment keywords

sandbag tough hard dyno desperate stuffed solid crank crux struggle pumped overhung sustained tired easy crap pockets hands awkward steep fingers slippery face reachy crimpy cruisy rest smooth undercling weird mantle bail dynamic flake short sharp feet bad good incredible nice great awesome classic fun cool enjoyable beautiful perfect super lovely stoked fall committing tricky scary exposed

Photos Browse all photos

Upload a photo of route

Activity

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文