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description

Start 1m L of 'Anonymous' on right blank face of large ledge beneath high first FH.

Fantastic. Boulder start to ledge then up daunting wall on holds that just happen to be right where they're needed. 6 FHs then slightly L to anchors shared with 'XXXX'.

The route got its name when the pockets on the steepwall were created by chipping away the rock before the first ascent. Originally named Chip a Holloway after Darryn Holloway who chipped the pockets.

Described in the guidebook as a tough 22... this was before the crux hold broke off. Now it climbs similarly in difficulty to a 24.

Route history

Oct 1998First free ascent: Andrew Horchner & Steven McMillan

Warnings

16 Jan 2021 Flora and Fauna: Wasp Nest Resolved
19 Mar 2022 Flora and Fauna: Wasps under final rest ledge before crux Resolved

Location

Lat/Lon: -27.48020, 153.03338

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

22 Assigned grade
22 Hyahno Moser
22 Bjorn Lyngwa
22 Paul Slattery
22(S) Kangaroo Point Climbing Guide
22 [22 - 22] grAId
23 Kurt Doherty
23(S) Kangaroo Point
24 hipyhop
24 private
24 Troy McAndrew

ethic

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • All top roping should be done through your own quickdraws to minimize wear on the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
inherited from Kangaroo Point

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 71 from 202 ratings.

Difficulty - 22

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 3 ratings.

Suggested Grade

22
24

Based on 3 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 11
Flash 6
Red point 150
Pink point 55
Tick 76
Top rope 77
Attempt 365
Target 7

Comment keywords

hands weird mantle awkward slippery crap smooth dynamic bail feet fingers pockets steep easy face flake rest bad sharp reachy crimpy short undercling cruisy scary tricky fall committing exposed incredible super awesome perfect good enjoyable fun classic nice beautiful stoked lovely great cool crux desperate tired overhung hard crank sustained pumped solid struggle stuffed dyno sandbag tough

Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

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