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description

Start at first line of bolts R of waterfall, 5m L of 'Junket'.

Nice crux start then follow line of 5 RBs just L of the tree to DBB. Relatively shady which is great on hot afternoons but then it does take a while to dry out after rain.

The 2013 SE Queensland guidebook lists this climb as 'Frontier Psychiatry'.

Route history

27 Jan 2006First ascent: Gareth Llewellin & ross ferguson

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -27.48020, 153.03338

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

16 Assigned grade
16 Gareth Llewellin
16 * ACA Route Register
17 [16 - 17] + grAId

ethic

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • All top roping should be done through your own quickdraws to minimize wear on the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
inherited from Kangaroo Point

Seasonality

J
F
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A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 51 from 165 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 98
Flash 22
Solo 1
Red point 76
Pink point 23
Tick 54
Top rope 41
Attempt 25
Target 2

Comment keywords

weird vertical layback steep chossy slippery crap bad slabby rest shady adventurous interesting awkward feet easy lip roof jugs tricky scary fall exposed solid sandbag pumped sustained hard crux lovely nice great fun cool magic awesome super good enjoyable

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Activity

Check out what is happening on Frontier Psychiatrist (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.

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