Lake Huntley Rock climbing 23 routes in crag

1. 40m (26) Unrelenting crimps and side-pulls. 15 bolts

2. 45m (24) Sustained and tenuous climbing on small holds past 2 bulges. 15 bolts.

3. 40m (22) Slabby finale, run out in places. 10 bolts.

Access is via the Main Face rappels. Alternatively you can rap the route, but you’ll need to bring plenty of spare biners, as the belays are all double FH.

Note that you can’t French free a lot of the hard pitches, and the escape from the base is not pleasant.

1. 50m (27) 'The Drowning Pitch'

2. 20m (21)

3. 45m (24) 'Crazy Sex Pitch'

4. 45m (26) 'Balls in a Juicer Pitch'

5. 35m (23)

6. 15m (24)

7. 50m (25) 'The Golden Corner'

8. 30m (20)

9. 20m (20)

Mostly bolted but trad gear needed on some pitches.

1. 25m (17) Fully bolted

2. 35m (22)

3. 30m (18)

4. 30m (26) Fully bolted. Can pull on the crux bolt and do this pitch at 23 A0.

5. 15m (13)

Abseil 50m from 60cm slings at DBB just below highest point of the NE buttress to large vegetated ledge with quartz covered ramp. Walk towards the lake to DBB and extend anchor with 120cm slings and abseil 70 m to a grassy terrace. Can be done as 2x 35m rappels. Gear: 16 quickdraws, small wires, cams from micro cams to #2, slings for abseil, spare biners for anchors

1. P 1) 34m 19 up short arete to thin crack then head left past bolt to arete. Continue airily to DBB. 10 bolts and small wires and micro cams

2. P2) 36m 18 continue up arete to DBB. 10 bolts.

3. P3) 25m 21 walk up ramps to base of wall and start at a finger/ hand crack that leads at 6 m into a chimney on the right side of a pinnacle. From top of pinnacle bouldery moves past 3 bolts lead to an alcove, from this step right onto slab and up to DBB. 4 bolts and gear

4. P4) 25m 11 a single bolt is visible on the skyline to the right from the belay. Walk 2m right up vegetated ledge to crack then up this staying right to the bolt and up onto grassy ledge. The crack just to the left leads to the starting DBB. 1 bolt and gear

A variant p5 for HHCIB. From the pedestal below the second last bolt on pitch 4 take the direct corner/ ramp for 25m until able to traverse right and up to DBB. Continue up the final pitch of HHCIB. Gear full rack of cams to #3 with double # 0.75 and #1 and a good selection of wires

The furthest buttress on the left (looking from camp). Skipping the first pitch makes for a much friendlier introduction to Tyndalls climbing.

Approach via the slabs and gullies along the cliff edge. You’ll come to a deep, scrubby gully which is crossed via a tight trail through the scrub (should be marked by a cairn).

Working your way along, you’ll probably find yourself on the summit of the tallest buttress. Looking down, you’ll see a big cairn on the ledge below you - this is where the rap starts. Walk lookers left a little bit to scramble down to this ledge.

Raps: - short one onto DBB at arete - straight down onto grassy ledge (don’t follow the line of the route here). You should see the next anchors down a little bit, on a lower ledge climbers right of the grassy one. - from here, follow the route.

The raps can be done on a 70m (with stretch). Alternatively, there’s a double FH belay halfway down P3 that can facilitate shorter ropes.

1. 23m (23)

2. 27m (16)

3. 42m (19)

4. 17m (18)

5. 15m (16) - traverse and down climb a bit, aiming for the arete to climber’s right

6. 27m (21)

7. 14m (10)

Warning Fixed Gear: Old bolts

Start below and right of the enticing offwidth that splits the face directly across from the bivy cave. Climb easily up the thin crack then across left and up the the beginning of the offwidth. Make a few noises and shuffle up that thing.