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Feltham Buttress

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Description

A popular cliff with numerous quality climbs of various grades and styles.

Access issues inherited from Tasmania

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Approach

From Pennyroyal, follow the zig-zag track uphill to Trackside Buttress (the first major cliff above the track) and continue part way up the next set of stairs. There is (usually) a cairn marking the spot to jump the small fence - from where a rough climbers track can be followed down and upstream to the top of Pygmy Possum and Saturday Night Buttress. Continue contouring upstream to the top of Feltham Buttress (identified by the huge rectangle boulder).

There is a DBB rap station at the top R of the cliff. This is the top of Westham. Alternatively, there is another set of bolts approximately 3-4 m L which is the top of Lingham. A set of fixed hangers has recently been installed above these to facilitate safer top access.

Descent notes

This is a rap in / climb out type crag. Climbers should be comfortable climbing at least grade 13/14, with one party member capable of top belaying. The downstream scramble is incredibly steep and slippery - and therefore not recommended.

Ethic inherited from Tasmania

  • The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted​.

  • Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

  • For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday

https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Ng, 1989

A novel traverse from 2nd bolt of Night Dweller to Feltham.

FA: Fox & DeCesare, 2002

The corner

Even more contrived than Feinian. Stick clip recommended. Stay left of the bolts on ultra-thin side pulls, then step right to finish up the finger crack (gear).

FA: Danny Ng

Very contrived, but has some great moves. Stick clip recommended. Climb the arete and thin face to the left of Lingham, avoiding the temptation to escape into the crack. Finish up the finger crack (good gear).

FA: Danny Ng

FA: Fox/Kearnes

On far right of main buttress. Climb block and into crack through small roof.

On upstream face. Route with old rusty piton, now superseded by a fixed hanger. Take some small cams for the middle section. At the big ledge, either finish up the left crack or straight up the bolt protected face. Tree belay

If you are after an easy route in the Rightman Buttress area, go 10m down the hill directly below Godfather, then facing the river, go right along a ledge for 20m to the top of the buttress, which I have marked with a cairn of stones. Rap from trees. The nice fingerlocking moves are short-lived, but it will be the most fun you've had in 5 seconds of climbing.

Access to top of this route is best from the approach to Rightman. Thin corner widening at the top

FA: Bob McMahon & Ian Thomas

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

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