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Access issues inherited from The Shady Side

Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris.

Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow.

Approach

The obvious large buttress downstream of Double Dozen area. Scramble up (via the slabs) steeply from the tourist track to the base of the cliff. There is a DBB below Strictly Ballroom, which may also be useful for getting back down. Take extra care when approaching the climbs on the far RHS of the buttress, and consider roping up.

Routes

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Grade Route

Bolted arete on LHS of main buttress.

FA: M. Polinski, 2012

FA: D. McConnell, 2007

Bolted crack & arete on far RHS of main buttress.

FA: M. Fox, 2003

The line of carrot bolts up the face around and right of main wall.

FA: Danny Ng, 1991

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