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Parasite Boulders

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 5
6

Seasonality

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Summary

A range of nice lengthy vertical problems right by the river - aretes, corners and faces.

Access issues inherited from Upstream of Suspension Bridge

Some climbs and boulders can be fully flooded if the river is running, although this is rather rare.

Approach

From the Basin, follow the Duck Reach track upstream past the suspension bridge. Easiest access is to jump the fence somewhere near Allodynia/Big Norms Blouse area (third small bridge) and head back downstream along the rocks from there. The boulder is located very close to the Main Rabbi cliffs.

Routes

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Grade Route

Smooth curving arete L of corner

The slippery corner downstream of Deuce boulder proper. To get off, down climb route or climb up to next tier and down climb easy flake.

Vertical arete L of main boulder.

Climb the first half of the trad route Bread of Angels (21). Start on far left as for Deuce, and go straight up on good holds - finishing up crack and slab.

Start as for previous route - then traverse right on rails to central line and up. A couple of mats or a spotter is needed for the mid height committing crux

The main diagonal traverse line. Stand start on the far left, trending right to top out up the final arete. Keep off anything below the semi vegetated floor crack. Try not to fall into the hole, and get someone to spot you in the chimney slot if possible.

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