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Kiwi Fruit Jam Gully

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 10
7

Seasonality

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Summary

The large vegetated gully between Four Thumbs Faces and Ramona, with a scattering of quality lines.

Approach

The lower climbs are best accessed from river level. Rock hop upstream from Duck Reach for approx. 30 mins. If you reach Ramona Buttress, you’ve gone too far. The first climbs are located on the upstream wall of the gully.

Alternatively, approach via Hardwicke Street Reserve by locating the head of the gully (there is a contouring cairned track starting from the top right corner of the yard with the ruined house at Duck Reach carpark which links up with the established track network). From the powerline easement, walk upstream along the cliff line from the bottom left pylon to the head of the gully. Gelb Buttress is located here. A steep descent gets you down to river level.

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Routes

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Grade Route

On the lower cliffs near river level. The left line of the sharp recessed pillar.

The right line.

The jam corner just downhill of the previous two routes. Closest to the river and the first you’ll reach if approaching that way.

The nice looking widening finger crack. Located 2 minutes up the gully on the upstream wall.

Best accessed from above via Hardwicke Street Reserve.

Park on Hardwicke Street, or locate a cairned track starting from the top right corner of the yard with the ruined house at Duck Reach carpark, which links in to the established track network (10 - 15 minute walk total).

From the bottom left powerline pylon, follow the cliff line upstream - passing the head of Kiwi Fruit Jam Gully - to the top of some rocky outcrops. Locate the brilliant golden face, or the nice looking bolted arete (Heart of Gold) as a prominent identifying features. Rap in or scramble down the gully to the base of the climbs.

Left of HoG. Start in chimney, and left onto bolted face. Tree belay.

The brilliant double arete on the left end of the yellow face. DBB

Bridge/layaway up the yellow face/arete using the R block. At the horizontal rail (after clipping the 3rd bolt) - step out L and up the main wall. Avoid veering into the grovel chimney higher up for full value. Access via rap or a scramble down upstream terraces. DBB.

FA: Nick Morgan, Oct 2021

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