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Lamp Post 5/6 - Love Wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 22
  • Aka: LP5/6

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Description

This buttress run parallel to the track on the sunny side just past LP5

Access issues inherited from Shady Side Bouldering

Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow.

Ethic inherited from Shady Side Bouldering

The Shady Side Bouldering is the most sensitive area in the Gorge in terms of access. This is due to the shady side walking trail being one of the most popular walking trails in the city for locals and visitors alike.

Please be very courteous to walkers. It is your responsibility to move pads out of the way of all walkers and passers by, do not ask walkers to step over your pads.

Access to bouldering directly on the shady side footpath is a privilege we as a climbing community do not want to lose! Please represent the climbing community in a positive and friendly way.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Just at LP5 . Start on a Jug at about waist height a couple meters to the right of the light post at a crack and a drilled hole. Angle up leftward to finish on the good holds directly above the light post at about 2.5m height. The drilled hole is part of the problem and it would be quite a bit harder if you decide to go au naturale.

FA: Mark Polinski

Sit start on low underclings about 1 meter left of the corner and move up and right on good sidepulls to a jug at about 3 meter height.

Sit start on the low underling as per the V0/V1, but move left traversing through more underclings to finish on jugs in the crack at about 2.5 meters height

Stand start in the crack where the V2 finished off (even better if you climbed into it from that problem, although it doesn't change the overall grade) and traverse left through some thin crimps and tricky footwork to finish on good holds in the next verticle offwidth crack.

Sit start LH on a low sidepull crimp, and RH a little higher in an arching undercling feature. Move up to a good incut crimp and small edge and then to a good rail. Traverse the rail rightwards through the corner and finish as per #5 by stepping off in the elevated cave. Although the crux is technically over within the first few moves, you may want to at least have a look at the rest lest you find yourself in trouble once you've done the opening.

Start in the corner on some good holds and traverse left though a cool double handed pinch to finish by stepping off onto the raised platform in the small cave. The original intent for the problem was to head straight up just before the end (which has been done at about V6) however some of the upper hold are ready to break and are continually dirty due to water flow, not to mention the epic downclimb, so this problem is not mentioned in the list. Feel free to rekindle the option though if it strikes your fancy.

The full traverse of the Love wall. Start standing on the crack used in #1, reverse this down to it's low undercling start and proceed through problems 2 and 3 which can then be linked into 4 and 5. More moves than most of the routes you'll climb in the gorge.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

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Mon 22 May
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