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Chateau Bloc

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 22

Seasonality

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Description

Two stellar problems on the other side of the bay near the trad area. There are also a number of easier problems in this area...names and grades unknown...

Approach

Go right from the car park to the obvious rocky outcrop.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Cool little steep boulder tucked in on the west side (beach side) of Castle Rock.

Rad Line coming out of the cave.

Sit start in the back right of the cave with low pockets. Avoid dabbing the boulder on the right. Come straight out on crimps with some fun tension moves. Little chossy but with some traffic will clean up nicely.

https://youtu.be/y5jeS6xxgfY

FA:

SDS low, slappy on the slopey edge and right jugs. https://youtu.be/y5jeS6xxgfY

FA: Gareth Wood, 20 Nov 2016

Well featured face with lots of variants. What is listed is the 3 obvious straight up lines. Pretty much all the variants have been done.

Sit start and up the obvious scoop feature with a few possible ways to exit.

Sit start and then up the arete.

Sit start with left hand in the scoop and right hand low on the slopey dome-like hold. Come up through the face avoiding going all the way left to join 'Warming up #2' (this link earns you V1). A bit contrived but fun when done in the right spirit.

Ultra-classic bloc sitting on the sea. One of the most picturesque blocs in the south west!

Start under the boulder then sloper traverse to slab. https://vimeo.com/119337880 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IwM-k7iKpYk

FA: Andy Lampard, Feb 2015

Sit start and traverse right on good holds over wet landing

Stand start on low left hand undercling and right hand high on slopey crimp. Hard start, then dyno to lip. https://vimeo.com/119337880

Note: Unfortunately the crimp that you dyno to has broken. The climb remains possible, with a bigger dyno to the lip and a larger swing out. Re-opened 5/6/22 by Tom O'Hallorhan! https://youtu.be/pwsiUx_U2mg

FA: Andy Lampard, Feb 2015

NA: Tom O'Halloran, 5 Jun 2022

Hard sit start.

Start as 'Crimping Ain't Easy'. Come out left to sloper and then straight up from sloper. Adds some hard moves to the original. https://youtu.be/pwsiUx_U2mg?t=320

FA: Tom O'Halloran, 5 Jun 2022

Start as for 'Crimping Ain't Easy' but from the flat edge traverse left over dodgy landing with slopey hold into good holds on the left.

Easy slab with a dodgy landing

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