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Meehan Range - Mornington

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Description

A crag developed by Dave Barnes and friends in the 90’s. Sharp Brittle Mudstone that yeilds a handfull of worthwhile routes. A few bolted, mostly trad. See Thesarvo for more information.

Access issues

Difficult, uneven off trail approach

Approach

Begin walk from fire trail gate opposite north Warrane oval on flagstaff gully Rd (parking in oval car park may be best). Cliff face can be sighted from here. Follow fire train towards cliff face until it ends, continue to follow gully until it ends at large eucalypt, follow arrow drawn on rock pointing to the left. From here you are own your own, bush bashing through scrub and chest high bracken, be careful of ankles. Is also possible to approach from top via different fire road.

Where to stay

Campfires remnants and caves/overhangs abound on this face. Use pre existing fireplaces if camping out here, offers good views of Hobart and the Derwent river. Great for multi day climbing adventures as is very rarely visited and has a long, tiring approach.

Ethic

Use existing fireplaces, clean up after yourself (and some local yobbos who like to leave pre-mix cans around)

History

History timeline chart

Routes set by Dave Barnes.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

The butress of rock you arrive at when walking from the bottom. The obvious corner finishing around R of small overhang.

A neat little thing. FH and 1 RB. Tree Belay.

Just around the corner from previous climb.

There is a DBB at the top.

FA: 2004

The dirty gully come crack with a can embedded in it. Beware of loose rock.

Named after my son. Start as for V but travel up the cracks on R, SLCD and wires. On approaching ledge sling tree on L then head up staying R into steep corner, BR. Head out R onto nose and follow it up passing two RB’s.

A must do. Start in crack. Up passing wire/friend placements to R side of ledge and a cave. Up the R of the cave and onto slab, FH, to guano stain and base of crack proper, 2.5 SLCD. Up crack passing two more FH’s. Tree belay.

The obvious open book corner on R of main wall. Layback the cool corner passing two RB’s. Traverse R a bit to rest. Up short steep wall, 3 RB’s to ledge. Avoid the big loose block above and up the crack and wall (gear) on its L side to top. DBB.

Start 15m R of main crag.Scramble up to start. Stay on L of wall following the line of holds. Consistently tricky climbing. 5 FH’s. Chain.

Start as for HM. Up HM till third RB then trend up steps L to shallow corner, RB. Up passing three more RB’s to DR's.

The RH arete. A tricky start gets you onto the arête, RB. Pass another 2 RB’s and three BR’s. Don’t chicken off left at end, you can slot a medium wire in the bulge if you need. DR's.

15m R of HM. Considerably harder than it appears. Follow the corner passing two FH’s. Some medium SLCD’s come in handy near end. DBB.

At far Right of the crag is a brushed line 25m R of CC. Follow the wall with natural placements all the way. Tree Belay.

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