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Access issues inherited from Moonarie

UPDATED 8 DECEMBER 2021

Upgrades to the visitor facilities are currently being undertaken by the Department for Environment and Water (DEW).

The Climbing Club of South Australia (CCSA) understand that there are not currently any access restrictions, however if any issues are noted, please message Mieka Webb (0419 183 004) or Rob Baker (0439 893 486).

Descent notes

Some routes finish at chains. Otherwise you have a few options. For routes on the left, walk south and down the southern descent gully. For routes on the right, walk right and abseil down the Great Wall (2 pitch abseil.)

Alternatively you can abseil down hangover layback but beware the chains are right on the edge (perhaps you should rope up?) and the next chains are awkwardly placed on an edge also. Top abseil pitch 30m. Bottom pitch 45m.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The incredible diagonal rib on the steep orange Guru Wall.

FA: Steve Pollard

Climb the bolted crack above the Meditations belay and continue up and across Meditations when that route is reached.

FFA: Matt Warner, 2021

Climbs the semi bolted line to the left of the 2nd pitch of hangover layback. Bouldery start past a few bolts and finish at chains left of Hangover Layback's second belay. Originally equipped by Dave Bowen.

FA: Duncan Graham, Stuart Williams & Rob Knott, 15 Sep 2022

A Moonarie mega classic, the 3 pitches are all exciting and all very different. Start in corner at left end of overhang at right side of large mossy slab.

  1. Haul past the overhang and then follow the thin crack to the major ledge. Traverse left to belay below the flake.

  2. Swing up the flake to the spacious ledge (rap chains on your left - awkward position, 50m to ground.)

  3. Up crack, then take a deep breath and swing right along the sharp ledge. Heave ho and then follow left trending line to the top.

The rap chains at the top are awkward to access from above (consider roping up.) From here it is a 30m abseil to the large ledge, then 50m to the ground (second abseil is in an awkward position.)

Climb the rib of Attunga to the tree, then follow the obvious line up the middle of the wall. At 35m the crack trends left to chains. Take either double ropes or at least a 70m single for the abseil.

FA: Rob Baker & Seth debolt

This mega crack was done on the very first climbing trip to Moonarie! Some big cams will be handy. Would be worth an extra star if it was further from Yanama. Scramble up to the ledge to start below the Yanama corner.

  1. The wide crack on the right. Lose a grade for every time you touch Yanama. Belay in the cramped cave.

  2. The crack above in a glorious position. At top, rap chains 5m to your right. 50m to ground.

The bolted seam R of Melodrama and L of Be There or Be Square, to chains.

FFA: Matt Warner, Sep 2020

The guide book for this climb suggest 'for small people only'. by small it means only suitable for anorexic midgets. My partener (who is small) tried leading it and could not get past the squeeze chimney on 2nd pitch. Unless you are built like a 8yo gymnast I suggest you give it a miss

You could make this route more sustained by stepping left at the big horizontal to finish up Metal Storm.

If you're not up to doing the crux first pitch of Grope Session, you could use Metal Storm as a grade 17 approach to the good looking grade 19 second pitch of Grope Session.

FA: rob baker

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Rob Baker, Josef Goding

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780646993621

Moonarie is an amazing example of Australian destination climbing with stunning rock in a beautiful location. This climbing by Rob Baker and Josef Goding is a true labour of love and the result is comprehensive guide that inspires as much as it informs.

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Thu 24 Feb
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