Ascents of Goblin Mischief

Led and lowered off on a single 80m rope

A stress free second...just dandy

What a journey. Onsighting this was a goal for a long time, extremely sustained, engaging and committing climbing on excellent rock in an outrageous position. Was happy not to take the potential 20m? plunge down the slab. Absolutely brilliant.

Bloody hell is this run out. After the last horizontal, there is techy slab/face for about 8m till a thin seam that will accept some average small RPs. Then a tricky sequence for the next 5m until a good rail. Would definitely not want to blow it, a 20m fall could be on the table. Cruxy at the bolt and mossy at the top, but a splendid climb all up. This is why Moonarie gets raved about.

Bloody hell! Need new underpants.

Psyched. True onsight with no chalk on the route and a veneer of dust over everything. Onsighting this was my goal of the trip, and has been for years since I first learned of moonarie and this routes rep. I was even sandbagged by two old locals telling me not to take my bolt plates right as I was about to set off... nice work guys, you got me good. I brought a rack-and-a-half, which led to some monster runouts above dubious gear, but with more small cams it didnt need to be. Not a physically hard route, but a technically challenging mental headgame with some real ropecraft necessary. Improbable and strange, with beautiful moves on the arete, and easier gritstone climbing higher up.

Got to arete & peg - couldn't work out the next move.