Originally established as a bold traditional outing by Kim Carrigan. Now retro-bolted with general consensus due to it residing in a largely sport-route populated area. Not surprisingly, it has now become one of the most travelled lines for its grade at 'Morialta'. Makes for a far better outing than the original. Once at the big break, climb straight up the continuation of the arete largely on its right border to finish at a chain.
1981 | First ascent: Kim Carrigan (all on trad) |
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23 | Assigned grade |
22 [22 - 23] -- | grAId |
23 | private |
23 *** | ★★★ ACA Route Register |
24 | ★ Adelaide Hills Online Guide |
Morialta is primarily a trad climbing and toproping area. Chipping, excessive chalk, litter and new bolts are all frowned upon and/or illegal.
Some routes have good natural gear, some have none (if the first ascensionist soloed it that is a good giveaway.) Most routes can be toproped and there are ring bollards in the more popular areas - use these where available and do not tie off to trees.
Any bolt repairs should be done in conjunction with the Climbing Club of South Australia.
Overall quality 69 from 44 ratings.
Paul Badenoch on ★★ Japetus Direct Finish 23 - Crux move just ahead.
Harry Judd on ★★ Japetus Direct Finish 23 - Japetus Direct Send Harry.jpg
Phil Davis on ★★ Japetus Direct Finish 23 - Steep and continuous - you would think the crux would be getting onto the wall proper ...
★★ Japetus Direct Finish 23 - D6D5A623-08D5-49DB-A36C-3DFA6D8EE916.jpeg