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The Alcove Boulders

Seasonality

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Approach

As for Cosy Corner. From car park head up hill and towards L end of upper cliffs. Cosy corner is the obvious corner in an alcove, and the easiest of climbs to locate. The Alcove Boulders are the boulders that form the outside the alcove. The climbs are on the E faces.

Descent notes

There are Rap chains at the top of the lower boulder and above Simple Simon. For the last 3 climbs walk down off the left end of the wall.

Routes

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Grade Route

On uphill end of face outside and downhill of alcove entrance. Overhanging corner line, starting off block then finger traverse under roof. Originally 18 with some nuts for aid.

FA: Bruce Somerfield & Phil Robertson

FFA: Simon Parsons, 1991

L and lower down from SS. Up body width crack off detached face to gain face then continue.

FA: Phil Robertson & Bruce Somerfield, 1993

Unto detached block downhill from SS. Follow weakness to up and L. Great Pro. Finish either at blocks, or at rap chains.

FA: Phil Benson, Chris Watson & Steve Hains, 1998

Starts up reborn, moves left to the arete then past 3 carrot bolts to the top.

FA: Chris Watson, Bob Bull & John Morris, 2010

Climbs the left arete of the face down right from Reborn. Stand start just left of the shoulder-high boulder and climb featured arete. Scramble off right.

FA: ross taylor, Aug 2020

Nice problem with a great slopey finish. From a sit start off two opposing side-pulls in the middle of the face right of Blackwood Arete, climb the face finishing through the slopey bowl. Scramble off right.

FA: ross taylor, Aug 2020

On extreme uphill end of wall uphill from Alcove and around L of Sophie. Climb corner and crack.

FA: Tony Wilson, 1989

Dogleg crack R of RMS.

FA: Mark Sullivan & Scott Schrieke, 1990

2m L of alcove entrance, up bulging seam.

FA: Simon Fenton & Ray Fenton, 1988

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