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The Paradiso

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Summary

The best sport climbing crag is southern Tasmania features overhanging climbing on juggy featured dolerite rock. Pounding waves and stunning views to Cape Raoul compliment this atmospheric venue.

Description

Premium sport climbing destination with classic routes from grades 20-29.

The Paradiso is an amazing crag that suffers from one significant flaw……..the dreaded ‘spooge’. There will be times when you arrive for a days climbing and the wall will be covered in a wet slippery ‘spoogy’ coating that renders it unclimbable. You’ll sit around waiting for it to dry. Sometimes it will, and you’ll get to climb. Sometimes it won’t and you will curse a wasted day. If you have a spare 15 minutes, try to ask a local climber how they decide whether it is worth the drive and walk. Brace yourself for some sort of long winded spiel that includes things like ‘strong northerly vortex of at least 10 knots’, or ‘wet bulb humidity flim flam’, but let’s face it even the locals don’t really know.

Really all anyone can do is try to stack the odds in their favor.

‘The Spooge’ seems to have nothing to do with rain, and seems to have little to do with ocean spray. It seems to have something to do with the rock itself being colder than the air and moisture condensing from the air onto the rock. So if it is humid, it is likely ‘spoogy’. The sun will tend to burn off the spooge, but the main overhanging Paradiso only gets sun very late in the day.

How do you maximize your chances?

• Try to pick a day with low humidity. Less moisture in the air will mean less spooge condensing onto the rock. On the morning your planning to go, do a search for ‘Tasman Island Weather Observations’. You will get a table of hourly conditions from the Bureau of Met , including temperature, wind and humidity. • Look at the ‘Delta T’ column on the table. If it’s been zero overnight, and it still less than one in the morning, then it’s probably spoogy. If it has been higher than 1 all night, and in the morning is in the 2’s and rising you may be in luck. Delta T’s above 3 seem to coincide with drying conditions, and 4’s and 5’s mean party time! • If your encouraged, start your trip. The later you arrive, the better chance that the wall (if it is spoogy) has dried by the time you arrive. Most locals don’t arrive before lunchtime.

Routes on the left side of Paradiso get more sun, earlier in the day. They tend to be much less effected, and dry sooner, so usually can be climbed or used as warm ups if your waiting for the routes in the main overhanging Paradiso to dry.

Access issues inherited from Tasmania

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Approach

From the ‘Remarkable Cave’ car park (come early to have a spot during holidays), walk back 50m to the ‘mount brown track’ on the right. Follow the sandy track for about 30min, past the Maingon blowhole until you reach a sandy downhill creek. From here the track follows the rocky coastline to a series of slabs. The access to the cliff is at the end of the slab, by staying right and going down a 2m easy downclimb (baby or dog here would be ill advised).

Ethic inherited from Tasmania

  • The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted​.

  • Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

  • For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday

https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The bolted arête to the L of 'Shock Wave'. Easy start leads to some balancy moves up to the top. 3 FH to lower-off. S.Young, Jan 07.

The steepness is unrelenting, but so are the jugs. Left of Shock Wave. Clip the first anchor from the block on the left, then go back down to start the climb directly below the anchor. Almost as good as the yellow in the gym (that is graded 13!)

FA: Roger Parkyn & Owen Gervasoni, 1 Mar 2022

This climb lies about 45m from the LH end of the cliffs. Follow 5 bolts up the overhanging arête to a lower off. Quite a pumpy little route. R.Parkyn, Aug 95.

Climb the easier angled arête immediately to the R of 'Lost Souls'. Start in the diagonal crack about 1m to its right, on less than perfect rock. H.Jackson, May 94.

Between 'Unzip' and 'Winkle' climb the face past 4 bolt runners to a rap station. An excellent warm up route. G.Phillips, Oct 95.

Start in the wide crack right of 'High Noon' (or climb directly up the face) step L onto the face, interesting climbing past U bolts to DBB. E. Bradley, A. Williams, J Spong, 2004.

Takes the chimney 8m R of 'Unzip'. Very pleasant, easy climbing. B.McMahon, M.Jackson, Sep 94.

Line of U’s up easy slabs, solid rock good confidence climbing for the kids, can easily top out so use as an access climb if required

Fully bolted now

FA: garry phillips, 1995

Bolted route between Supercharger, and the R facing 'Bagpipe' corner. Thin technical face, to roof then powerful crux move to bollard and a welcome rest. The difficulty then eases to a DBB.

Popular route with a testing initial wall, followed by a dynamic crux. If you make it through all that to the ledge at 3/4 height your doing well. Its in the bag.....isn't it? Fully bolted with a DBB.

Right of TBAG is an initially bolted wall leading to a left trending traditionaly protected crackline that joins OOTF below its final roof. DBB.

Sustained climb.

The classic of the wall with constant good and varied moves.

One of the classics of the crag. Long and pumpy, on positive holds, until the final rooflet is mounted and the mood of the route changes. The initial roof is regarded as the crux, but the final rising traverse to the DBB is a heartbreaker.

Classy and sustained climbing, deserves more attention.

FA: Garry Phillips

The final corner provides a technical bridging crux sequence, a long way above the pounding waves. 60m rope required.

If you forget about the last 3 bolts of Retrograde Amnesia you have amnesia but it does make for an awesome warm up 22 (the 4th & 5th last bolt has a single fixed bineer lower off.

Excellent climbing, split by ledges in the middle. A steep start to the ledges, the a great technical and exposed top slab!

FA: Simon Young

FA: Nick Hancock

A long and varied pitch up the right trending corner system that seperates the main overhanging portion of the Paradisio (on the left) from the more sympatheticaly angled wall (on the right). DBB.

FA: S Young, 2012

Near the start of Total Recall the cliff changes direction, this route is about 20m to the R. Follow FHs through rooflet down low (crux) then easily up featured face above past another 3 FHs and a #3 cam slot to a double ring lower-off. The crux is quite out of keeping with the rest of the route.

1 21 25m
2 21 30m

Two pitch sport route. Starts at short right facing corner from sloping ledge.

FA: G. Phillips & A. Lewis, 2010

A long pitch of overhanging climbing, starting at the left end of the wave platform seperating tha Paradiso proper from the Aquaphobia Wall. Long reaches between incut holds characterise this line, which has been known to shed the odd piece of rock. Popular warmup for the harder routes, or a greatpitch to work in its own right. DBB.

Solid for 22. Start at the left-hand side of the wall, heading directly upwards past 3 U's before delicately traversing right and upwards past another 3 U's to DBB lower-off.

FA: S.Edwards, 1995

Holds broken at crux, harder than 28 now.

A long pitch of vertical wall climbing at the far right of the Paradiso. Needs a low swell day for safe access to the start ledge. Straight up from ledge, then traverse right at the fourth bolt (as for De Ja Vue) on tiny crimps. From bolt five blast straight up. Can be done on a 60m rope with a bit of dodgyness..

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Selected Guidebooks more

Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

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