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Hades

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 1
5
AU

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Description

Hades. This is not a climb but a cave. The huge mouth can be easily seen from the ledge beneath these last few climbs, but if you have time it's very rewarding to access its southern side (for example when visiting Land's End and the Furnace, or when swimming) since the slabs can be followed inside for about 50m.

From here, deep in the bowels of the beast, the floor of the cave proper can be accessed via a short abseil from a DBB. Take care with waves and tides. Leave a fixed line (15m) to help scramble back out.

The cave floor is largely protected from big waves by a boulder choke at its western entrance, but if the swell is up, water will surge in from both the western and eastern sides of the peninsula.

Awake My Soul and 40 Degrees South both have rap anchors and are located on the headwall above hades, these are the only climbs that exist in the area so far, however, there are existing projects and plenty of untouched rock within and around hades.

Access issues inherited from Tasmania

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Approach

To access walk over paradiso following the loosely worn in footpad to a scramble down the southern side.

Ethic inherited from Tasmania

  • The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted​.

  • Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

  • For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday

https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

Routes

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A unique experience, surrounded by surging water and a long way from the sunshine. Steep face climbing on the east facing wall at the back of the cave, past the pool where water pulses in through the chasm from Inferno. Take a head torch.

FA: Owen Gervasoni, Jan 2019

Closed project going straight through the middle of the cave.

Access: Head out as if going to the Paradiso, but instead of dropping down to the Paradiso continue for 10 mins more up along the top of the cliff. A faint track marks the way. Bolts are located on slabs above Hades on the Paradiso side, facing Cape Raoul (cairned) and are just as the cliff reaches the highest point. All belays fully bolted. One 60m rope is enough to rap both pitches. Ample bolts provide an easy escape if need be. 1. 30m. 25. Tricky sequence off the belay leads up the face on slopey holds (crux). After no-hands rest head R and up to DBB (fully bolted). 2. 30m. 19. Bolts lead up the face till the crack accepts gear. Continue to top. Rack: 14 quick draws (a couple should be alpine draws). Singles of .5, .75, 1 Camalot. Doubles of 2 & 3 Camalot.

FA: G.phillips & S.Young

An out-there location! This climb weaves through the awesome ground above the cave of Hades (the huge cave arch you can look into from the right end of the Paradiso cliffs. Can be done as 22 with some bolt pulling. Walk to the top of the Paradiso and then head up hill and over the top on a small cairned track. From here you can either walk around the back or rap from the anchors to the base of the route. See the access section for GPS co-ordinates. 1. 15m 20. Ascend the interesting face to the belay on top of the pillar. 2. 35m 23. Continue up to the over lap and once over this traverse L and up to belay on large ledge. 3. 15m 25. (Sting in the tail pitch). Climb the interesting water washed over hanging wall above to exit to the R of the roof. Gear Required: Double Ropes, 15 quick draws, helmets and a #05 friend for pitch 2 if you want.

FA: G.Phillips & A.Williams

Traverse R from Hades to Meadowbank. Beaut climbing at the start with some serious sections at the R end of the Furnace.

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Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

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