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Bulging Buttress

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Access issues inherited from Tasmania

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Ethic inherited from Tasmania

  • The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted​.

  • Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

  • For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday

https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

Routes

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Grade Route

Access to this face requires climbing 50m up Avalanche Couloir and scrambling back R to the base of the wall

The first 10m is gear protected, the remaining is fully bolted.

FA: D. Stephenson, N. Deka & P. Steane, 1989

FA: N. Deka, D. Stephenson & Feb 1989, 1989

A direct variant to Whatever. Start as for that route, but after the roof continue direct staying left of the arete, eventually finishing up the last couple of bolts of Whatever.

Starts at the highest point of the gully, climbing to the base of the climb is a bit precarious. Face climbing to the roof, then move right with great technical climbing up the arete using oddly angled flakes.

FA: Roger Parkyn, 22 Nov 2015

FFA: Chris L, 24 Nov 2015

The second pitch is a Pipes classic. Steep, featured, and pumpy.

  1. 15m (18) 5 bolts. Follow U bolts to large sloping ledge and DBB. Likely a sandbag at 18, but interesting and well bolted.

  2. 15m (22) 7 bolts. The main attraction. Follow the black streak and gently overhanging arete. Pumpy, safe, and technically interesting.

There is a lower-off at the top of the 2nd pitch. With a 60m rope and care, the belayer can lower the climber to the ground, then abseil to the ground using the climber as a counterweight.

Climbs the steep thin crack-line about 6 m R of Heat Pump. DBB lower-off.

Line of bolts right of Heat Pump. Climb P1 of Heat Pump to access ledge. Follow the corner to a ledge, then continue up face and arete on some sharp holds

Climb the slab, trending left of the prow to a lightly overhanging hand crack. Follow this up and over several spears of rock to a ledge (a belay can be set-up here to split the route into two pitches). From here, head to the crack on the left and follow it up and to the right, stepping right around the corner when it ends to DBB and rap-station.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Ian Lewis, 1975

FA: A. Donoghue & H. Jackson, Feb 2014

Cracked face just to the right of the prow, 2m left of the tree. Great if you are a percussionist. For the rest of us, however, the tone emitted by tapping the flakes on this route is a tad scary (but the gear is good). Finishes with double bolt belay at the Black Magic step.

FA: S. Parsons, P. Bigg & Apr 1978., 1976

Poorly protected Climbs the obvious corner, grovel through the mossy overhang section, finish up the dirty chimney, Bolted loweroff

FA: P. Robinson, C. (Basil) Rathbone & May 2013, May 2013

FA: T. Terry & K. Hall, 1968

  1. A roaming line starting up face reaching between horizontal breaks to small roof. Traverse R under roof and up to small ledge.

  2. Up broken corner crack to top of initial column, head up and R to bolt belay. (combining first two pitches is definitely possible)

  3. Diagonally L to another bolted belay and rap station.

FA: T. McKenny & P. Robinson, 2013

FA: L. Martin & T. Smith, Feb 2014

FA: I. Snape, T. McKenny (alt.) & A. Adams, Dec 2012

FA: G. Kowalik & P. Robinson, 1979

FA: H. Jackson & A. Donoghue, Mar 2014

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