Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Organ Pipes Broken Buttress | |||||
23 | ★★ Assault Course
| ||||
23 | ★ No Way
A cop out to avoid the crux of The Way. But still good climbing. | ||||
23 | ★ The Light
Our Lord described himself as 'The Truth, The Way and The Life'. The Parkyn trilogy features 'The Truth, The Way, and The Light'. It is unclear if Roger has just got the quote wrong, or if he is proclaiming himself as our new saviour. Either way, this punchy number will raise your spirits. FA: Roger Parkyn | 15m | |||
The Organ Pipes University Buttress | |||||
23 | ★ Sparkle
2m R of '19 Shades of Grey.' Through the roofs. Head left under the roof and crank up the arete, to skip the broken hold crux FA: T. McKenny, O. Gervasoni & D. Stephenson | 10m, 5 | |||
The Organ Pipes Bulging Buttress | |||||
23 | ★ What's Left
A direct variant to Whatever. Start as for that route, but after the roof continue direct staying left of the arete, eventually finishing up the last couple of bolts of Whatever. | ||||
The Organ Pipes Teardrop Gully | |||||
23 | ★ Cornered
Start approximately 5m left of Wootang. Climb the thin crack line just right of the arête, protected by small to mid-sized cams (some people think these small cams are quite dodgy), then continue up the shallow corner above past 3 FH to a DBB at the ledge. A. Williams, early 2005. FFA: A. Williams, 2005 | 20m, 3 | |||
The Organ Pipes Great Tier | |||||
23 | Prime Meridian
second pitch alternative to Blue Meridian or Fine Time | 45m | |||
23 | ★ Quantum of Solace
Precarious and pumpy climbing. Start on the ledge as for Skyfall (can be accessed via the short bolted wall, or by scrambling up the vegetated corner to gain right side of ledge). Climb several metres right of Skyfall, blasting up up the seam and through the large roof passing the DBB of Solace to the rest ledge. From the ledge, clip the bolt up and left on the hanging arete, then commit to moving up and left (crux) above the void. Balance up arete to a DBB FA: O Gervasoni & T McKenny, 2013 | 32m, 16 | |||
The Organ Pipes Central Buttress | |||||
23 | Bumps and Angels
The thin line between Faust and Twice, up the thin seam through two overlaps. Looks bold. | 80m, 2 | |||
23 | ★★ Peregrine
The line of bolts 5m left of Rememberance and Roast Chicken | 48m, 2 | |||
23 | ★★ Oopsy Daisy
MIxed route left of Kacktus. Climb loose chimney on natural gear until top of pinnacle is reached. Step onto the right wall and follow fully bolted wall to ledge and DBB. There is a short extention to a second DBB. | 40m, 9 | |||
23 | ★ Clown Face
Classy face climbing on the lowest tier of Circus Wall. Can be accessed by climbing the first 3 pitches of Heat and then scrambling across scrubby ledge. | 20m, 9 | |||
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | |||||
23 | ★★ The Holy Road
| 25m | |||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | |||||
23 | Armchair Ethics
| 35m | |||
23 | ★★ Cruel But Fair
| 25m | |||
23 | ★★★ Close to the Sun
| 48m, 2, 23 | |||
23 | ★★ Plymouth Satellite
More fine dolerite face climbing 15m right of Dark Nebula | 23m, 11 | |||
23 | ★★★ Ultrasound
| 35m | |||
23 | ★ Face What You Fear
| 20m | |||
23 | ★★ Strange Angels
| 40m, 16 | |||
23 | ★★★ Hakea
A steep, sustained and challenging crack that varies from a small seam to hand width, including v-grooves and a short chimney. Seeps longer than most climbs in the area. Climb the wall and thin seam to a thin corner, passing the bulge with finger jams. Continue up the thin-hands v-groove to pass another bulge at half height. Continue jamming up the second v-groove (thin seam) and short chimney above, then pull around a huge overhanging flake to a stance at the Hakea tree near the top. Either ascend your fixed rope for ~8m (recommended approach), climb awkwardly past the tree, or abseil-off the tree back to the ledge where you can abseil from bushes or down climb (grade 14) back to the base of Cossack column. The crack has been thoroughly cleaned as of Jan 2023, which should keep it tidy from moss for the coming years. | 40m | |||
The Organ Pipes Northern Buttress | |||||
23 | ★★ Side Saddling Cheescake
Great series of sustained moves up the short bolted arete to DBB. | 12m, 5 | |||
23 | Sorrow
| ||||
23 | Great Pets
| 18m | |||
23 | ★★ Osteomen
The arête right of CEMC. The first section can be climbed on either side of the arête, leading to a good rest before the steep finish. The crux is passing the last bolt. FA: D. Stephenson, S. Scott & T. McKenny, May 2018 | 20m, 10 | |||
Lost World Area Lost World | |||||
23 | ★★ Play Dirty
The lightly vegetated, thin flared crack 3m right of the vegetated corner of Quarryman. Climb the crack and the shallow corner above. A #4 Camalot make the top out more palpable. FA: G. Child & K. Carrigan, 1978 | ||||
23 | ★★ Hejira
| 30m | |||
23 | Naked Flame
| 18m | |||
23 | ★★ Hufflepuff
The cleaned, well-protected crack just right of Hurricane. Desperate, sustained and technical flared finger/hand jamming leads to sustained bridging and jamming to the top from about halfway. Crux at the first bulge around 8m. A good test-piece before tackling Albatross at Lowdina. FA: Christoph Speer & Martin Brown, Feb 2023 | 20m | |||
23 | ★★★ Rosy Pink Cadillac
The original free version. Starts up the off-width on the left before stepping right into the finger crack. Finishes around on the left at the end in an easy corner. FFA: Mike Law, 1978 | 20m | |||
Lost World Area New World | |||||
23 | ★★ Toxastoma Par Excellence
| 15m, 4 | |||
Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Lost World Boulders Res Gestae Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★★ Tools
SDS - LH line up spaced jugs to top out | ||||
Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Lost World Boulders The Pinnacles | |||||
V3/4 | V3/4
SDS. Sitstart off the block, and climb the thin face to the left of the overhanging crack | ||||
Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Lost World Boulders Lost World Ampitheatre Boulders | |||||
V3 | ★★ The Crowd-Pleaser's Guide to a Slippery Death
Precise climbing up a 90 degree arete at the edge of the ampitheatre. Landing is a steep slope, so bring a couple of pads and a spotter shaped like a bowling pin. From the base of Atlantis, face the city. Walk forward and slightly right, till at the edge of the ampitheatre. Either rap in (gear in crack at back of block) or throw down pads and scramble in. FA: Ewan Barry, 15 Jan 2023 | 3m | |||
Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Western Front Shell Shock | |||||
V3 | ★ Shell Shock
SDS. Thin shallow crack in middle of face of boulder right at top of hill. Only use crack | ||||
Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Western Front Passchendale | |||||
V3 | The Dab Prince
FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2018 | 3m | |||
Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Western Front Skinless | |||||
V3 | ★ V3
Sitstart on rail then straight up on slopes | ||||
Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Western Front Verdun Area | |||||
V3 | ★★ Verdun
| 5m | |||
Summit Boulders Fence area | |||||
V4 | V4 x
Entertaining climb; avoid using neighboring boulders. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 10 Feb 2019 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Campus
Sit start on jugs to top out FA: Mike Hitchcock, 10 Feb 2019 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Fatman and Robin
Sit start on flake as for Fatman but move straight up. Don't back of block on right and mantle via Fatman block FA: Tommy Krauss, 2014 | 3m | |||
V3 | V3
Sit start FA: Tommy Krauss, 2019 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ V3 a
Sit/hang start on good crimp FA: Tommy Krauss, 10 Feb 2019 | 3m | |||
V4 | V4
Sit start. Traverse along the edge. FA: Tommy Krauss | 4m | |||
V2/3 | V2/3
Sit start. Work up and around the diving platform. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 10 Feb 2019 | 3m | |||
V3 | V5 a
Sit start, up the face from low left hand side pull and foot very low on small chip. FA: Tommy Krauss, 10 Feb 2019 | 4m | |||
Summit Boulders Snowflakes Area | |||||
V3 | Snowflakes
Stand start with left hand on good crimp, right hand on lowest part of sloper rail. Punch straight up and mantle over left hand arete of boulder. FA: Tommy Krauss, 2017 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Pancakes
Start as for Snowflakes but traverse the big undercling roof feature to the right and mantle the centre of the top slab. FA: Tommy Krauss, 2017 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Muffled Optimist
Sit start as low under overhanging pillar as possible, feet on large slopey feature, slap your way to the top, mantle nose lip FA: Tommy Krauss, 2017 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ Optimistic Nihilism
Climbs the rail on the right of the Muffled Optimist boulder, tops out right of the prow. FA: Mackenzie Lovell, 24 Feb 2019 | 2m | |||
V4 | ★★ Freefall Anyway
Stand start on left hand sloper, big moves up right, then straight up for top. FA: Tommy Krauss, 2017 | 3m | |||
Summit Boulders Lookout Boulders | |||||
V3 | ★★ V3
| 4m | |||
V3 | This Big
Arm spanning slab & blocks at top. | ||||
V3 | Grovel
From the Primis jug up | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Stella's Arete
Steep arete | 4m | |||
Summit Boulders Dildo blocks | |||||
V4 | ★ The Dalek
Hard sit start into easier moves. | 3m | |||
Summit Boulders Asylum Years Area | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Le Petit Pillier
This block is located just up the hill from Asylum Years. Compression moves to big sloper to top straight up. | 5m | |||
V4 | Aimless pillar stand
Stand start to Aimless Pillar, start with good sidepull on left at around half height and slopers on the right, top out straight up via mantle | 3m | |||
V3 | Treetops
Hang start of single hand slot in horizontal crack, move up and right to mentle the slab top. | ||||
V3 | ★★ Spanned out
20m down the hill. Sit start with a hand on each arete (if you can reach!) and feet on smears. This problem can either be done by moving to the right arete (which may be slightly easier) or by using both aretes the whole way and toe hooks to help. | ||||
Summit Boulders Ticktack land | |||||
V3 | Diary of a whip snake
FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2019 | 3m | |||
V3 | Like a Leech
FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2019 | 6m | |||
V3 | Namaste Bitch
FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2017 | 4m | |||
Summit Boulders Penal Colony | |||||
V3 | ★ Big Boy
Up the underside/rightside of the pillar, out over the tip FA: Chris L, 11 Nov 2018 | 6m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Write up your damn climbs Tommy!
Sit start as low as possible and climb the left hand side of the split pillar. Avoid the crack or right hand side split rock and fridge hug the left part to the top. FA: Tommy Krauss, 2011 | 7m | |||
Summit Boulders Second Hill | |||||
V3 | Sun-drenched mouse
FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2019 | 7m | |||
V3 | Almost Content
FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2019 | 6m | |||
V4 | ★★ To bolt or Buck UP
FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2019 | 7m | |||
V4 | Gripples
FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2019 | 4m | |||
V2/3 | Choritzo
Up the underside, top out over the tip, or escape easier to the left FA: Chris L, 11 Nov 2018 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Slap Happy
Hug the face to the top FA: Chris L, 11 Nov 2018 | 5m | |||
V3 | ★ Tip Top
Good value seam. surprisingly good FA: Chris L, 11 Nov 2018 | 4m | |||
V4 | Ben Whyte
FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2019 | 4m | |||
Summit Boulders Patient Lady | |||||
V3 | ★★★ New Theory
Start with hands in horizontal crack. A great climb with some lovely moves. | ||||
Summit Boulders Sub-Pinnacle Leaning Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Cool and Cloudy
The leaning line 3m left of Grunt. Classic steep slope problem. Sit start with right hand on slopey side pull rail and left on a small edge. | ||||
Summit Boulders Sub-Pinnacle Sweet Science Area | |||||
V3 | Ringside
SDS. Start with hands opposed on column and feet on holds either side. | ||||
Summit Boulders Invisible Area | |||||
V3 | ★ Exfoliation
Start as for Trinamic, match on large exfoliated ledge on right hand side and move directly up to slopes before reaching over to top out jugs. | 3m | |||
Summit Boulders The Promised Land April Boulders | |||||
V3 | ★★ Subterranean Homesick Alien
Start under boulder. Left hand on crimp right on lowest rail. Make a powerful move up and right and continue to top. FA: Joe Schwarz, 2024 | ||||
Summit Boulders The Promised Land First Stop Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ First Stop
Start sitting on block compressing left hand low on rail right hand on low sloper/crimp. Compress your way out to jug on face. Top out needs more cleaning. FA: Raul Schwarz, 2022 | ||||
Summit Boulders The Promised Land Bad Dreams Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★ Acrtic Blast
Sit Start on good hold on the lip of the hanging face behind Rauls Bad Dreams. FA: Joe Schwarz, 2023 | ||||
Summit Boulders The Promised Land Strawberry Fields Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★ Pineapple Fudge
Start as for Banana Smoothie but head left across slopers into Strawberry Fields FA: Joe Schwarz, 2022 | ||||
Summit Boulders The Promised Land Spring Bean Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ Spring Bean
Contrived. Same start but head right and dyno to top. FA: Lewis Traill, 2022 | ||||
Summit Boulders The Promised Land Penguin Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ Penguin Crime Ring
Sit start on good sidepull. Trend left to top out. FA: Tarn Hingston, 2024 | ||||
V4 | Penguin Crime Ring Direct
Start as for Penguin Crime Ring but mantle straight up. FA: 2024 | ||||
The Springs Lookout Boulder | |||||
V3 | Blunt nose
SDS right on good side pull, left hand opposed on sloper. Keep slapping left up and directly mantle eliminating all the easy stuff to the right. | 2m | |||
The Springs Symbiosis Boulder | |||||
V3 | Charlotte Sometimes
Sit start crouched as for Spider Pig, move left and up and out, staying on the left wall - everything on right side is off limits. Low-down, trickier than it looks. FA: CW | ||||
V3 | Slab right of cave
High step onto slab on right side of cave, just left of chockstone block. SDS is a project. | 3m | |||
V4 | The Undergate
Start under V3 just left of chockstone block, traverse left to corner, finish up Spider Pig. FA: CW | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Right of nose
Start on the undercling to the right side of the nose, straight up through slopers to the dish on top. Non obvious beta, but not too hard once you figure the trick out. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Full Fontal (par grotte)
| 4m | |||
The Springs Lilo & Two Mat boulders | |||||
V3 | ★ Horizontal break
Sit start under rooflet, move out from the left of the rooflet and up to little slot and up edges/slopers. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ All's Fair in Love and War
| 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Right of arete
Sit start between arete and tree, up to right crimp, left sloper, bigger move to high jug and up. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Left of arete
| 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Stammer
Traverse all of Two Mat from left to right and finish up Thoughtless | 10m | |||
The Springs Jungle Block | |||||
V4 | Arete
| 3m | |||
The Springs Rocky Whelan's Cave | |||||
V3 | ★★ Cheating Heart
Start as for Physical Romance and finish up Mat loves Nat (keep feet above the undercut, not as contrived as it sounds). | ||||
V3 | 2018
SDS. Start on the prominent jug inside the cavelet, climb out and then up. | ||||
V3 | ★★ Left to Right Traverse
Sit start on the pedestal on the left side of the cave, traverse the entire cave finishing on the head-height jug on the far right. | ||||
Sphinx Rock Main face | |||||
23 | Short, Sharp and Shit Scared
Fun and games left of SSSH. The fun, start on the rock as for SSSH but head left to the pockets. The games begins after the fourth bolt, suck it up and clip the anchors. Please leave the draw for the next ascent. FA: D. Humphries, 2013 | 10m, 4 |