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Description

R of the black wall is a steep broken bay about 20 metres high. A dark, shaded bay, it is wet for a good part of the year due to ground water seepage. In summer this area stays shaded which makes it a good choice on hot days.

© (hotgemini)

Access issues inherited from Mountain Quarry

The gravel road into the quarry runs off the carpark on Coulston Road and has a combination-locked gate (normally locked), the code to which can be obtained from the Department of Parks and Wildlife Perth Hills District office (9290 6100). The quarry is also easily accessible on foot from the car park on Coulston Road. Don't leave valuables in your car.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The right edge of the blank wall. Steep, overhanging, and so rewarding when you get it!

Set: Ross Weiter, Jun 2015

4m L of Turbodiesel Excavator and 2m R of Shut 'em Down. Start is the crux, then follow the inverted staircase past 4 ringbolts to lower-offs.

FA: Ross Weiter & Peter Thomas, Apr 2014

Climb the line 2 m L of “Crazy Horse”. Interesting moves and very 3D terrain.

FFA: R Weiter & P Thomas, 2010

Route starts 2m right of Turbodiesel Excavator and continues over two overlaps to anchors.

4m R of Crazy Horse and 2m L of Vombatia. Steep, gym-like climbing which will make you work for an on-sight. 5 ringbolts to lower-offs.

FA: Ross Weiter & Peter Thomas, Mar 2015

Start up loose rock left of first bolt (optional stick clip). Pass 2nd bolt with a hard move. Dyno through the roof (although it’s not the only way). Tricky moves with the anchor at you nose. Best clipped when you reach the jugs above.

FA: Neil Gledhill

Start below bolt (hanger required) and move right to FH (long draw to reduce drag) then delicately move back left to gain black slab. Hard moves up to groove and continue to small that takes gear.

FA: Pete Koval, 1992

Maint: Mar 2023

Climb the aesthetic face on small holds. Starts 1m right of Month of Sundays. Follow bolts to DBB (hangers) below the roof. The FA was a culmination of much frustration, the purloining of red tape and the likely theft of my socks by a frog. The starting moves are easy, before some high stepping and reach testing is required. Then there is a spot of extra strong gravity, just before the angle eases and an anchor appears.

FA: Neil Gledhill & Kate Swain, 21 Jan 2016

Maint: Refitted with stainless steel lower-offs, 5 Dec 2021

Maint: Mar 2023

Follow four ring bolts through a significant traverse. Gear is required to use natural protection above the third bolt (0.5 to 1" cams in the cracks work well). No lower-offs.

Start at a thin flake crack on the right-hand side of Black Bay. Up crack past two ring bolts to obvious hand traverse and another ring bolt. Continue left to a small ledge and a hard move to a stance and another bolt, up a wall and into a large alcove. Through the overhanging crack on perfect finger locks to finish. Natural gear is required for the top section.

FA: Ronald Master & Ron Master, 1990

Maint: Mar 2023

Start as for Split Personality, don’t move left as for SP but go directly up on small holds to the ledge. Dynamic moves to get over the headwall. 2BR and small friends. Just brilliant fun.

FA: M. Rosser & J. Truscott, 2005

Start as for Split Personality but don't move left. Go directly up on small holds to the ledge. Dynamic moves to get over the headwall.

Four bolts and small friends.

FA: Matthew Rosser & Jim Truscott, 2005

Maint: Mar 2023

Another variant on Split Personality / Vital Link. Diverges from existing lines at the large ledge halfway up SP. Start either on SP or up the first two BR on Ride of the Valkyries. From SP move right on the large ledge to where the head-high horizontal crack turns diagonally upwards (to eventually form the horizontal break on the ROTV crux). Layback move up the diagonal crack. Traverse left one meter, ignoring the superfluous bolt at knee level, to stand below the shallow open book. Strenuous, balancy move up into the open book finishing as for VL.

FA 6/2/05 Ishmael, M Turner, and 3/4 Peter.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/mountain-quarry-trad-among-the-bolts/

Start about 3m right of Split Personalties. Climb past 6BR to DBB with much broughaha.

FA: J. Truscott & M. Rosser, 2004

The wall, mantle and jump about 5m right of TROTV with 5BR to DBB.

FA: J. Truscott & M.Rosser, 2005

Maint: Mar 2022

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