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Playboy Area

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Description

Beyond City Limits Wall is a large rubble fan with a broken buttress on its right, then a less broken section before a classic V-shaped corner, the climb Playboy. There are a couple of easier routes to the left of 'Plantagenet' however they are only for desperados.

© (hotgemini)

Access issues inherited from Mountain Quarry

The gravel road into the quarry runs off the carpark on Coulston Road and has a combination-locked gate (normally locked), the code to which can be obtained from the Department of Parks and Wildlife Perth Hills District office (9290 6100). The quarry is also easily accessible on foot from the car park on Coulston Road. Don't leave valuables in your car.

Some content has been provided under license from: © CAWA (CAWA) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The Guide 2nd Edition (1995): Start on the left side of the small triangular buttress. Climb the left side of the buttress then scramble to the steep broken wall. Travel up a dirty line of weakness and then scramble to top.

Perth Rock 1st Edition (1996): Another chossy scramble.

The Guide 2nd Edition (1995): Start at the right edge of triangular buttress. Up groove to top of buttress then right up small chimney and ramp. Move left onto the right end of the broken wall, climb wall and then scramble to top.

Perth Rock 1st Edition (1996): The chossy scramble.

10m left of Playboy and 6m up slope. Climb drill hole to ledge. Up and over the next slab, then follow the bolts on the second wall.

Set: Oliver Morell & Jonas Hollingworth, Oct 2013

Start 3m left of the V-shaped corner. Up broken corner then keep right on the rock to below overhanging corner. Up this using detached block to gain corner above. Continue to top via the left side of the steep wall above.

FA: Mike Smith

Slabby route in V-shaped groove. Thin seam provides good pro using nuts and cams. Be careful of loos blocks at bottom, and use good foot work to reach top.

Follow playboy to top slab and trend left to reach bolts

Start 2m left of ‘Penthouse’ on a small white triangle painted on the rock and go straight up the corner onto a blank-looking slab. Climb the first 2 slabs staying left of the bolts then up the right side of slab 3 and traverse left with hands across the top. Move further around the side and up, with a reachy move to finish. 8 RB to DBB. Don’t drop on the heads of climbers on ‘Playboy’. Alternate finish – from the last RB head right and finish at the top of ‘Penthouse’.

FA: J. Hollingworth & O. Morell, Aug 2013

Follow carrots to large block at top, and do interesting moves to reach anchors. To climb at grade 18, stick left of carrots and avoid large jugs to the right.

A long traverse on existing climbs.

Starting from the base of Penthouse, traverse diagonally right all the way across the wall up to the ring bolts of ‘Bumble Sea’. There are about 10 bolts, but with quite a run-out in the middle under the large blast-hole. If you want to, use a long sling (3 metres) and the the bolt in the blast-hole and then come down again. Maybe I’ll put a bolt in someday…

Crux is the last few moves from about the Bumble Aye line up to the ring-bolts, about grade 18 if you keep in the direct line and don’t wimp out and use the stuff right in the corner.

‘Not the Wurst!’ 40 m, grade 18, Phillip and Tracy, and Andvariousothers shouting comments…errr… encouragement in the background.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-climb-at-mq/

Same as for Penthouse, but go slightly right at the top, not all the way right. Small/ medium cams can be used to protect the last 4m or so of the climb.

A climb that has no doubt seen a few "first ascents" yet never seemed to make it into a guidebook. As a result it has a few names and descriptions. Equipped with a lower off in 2021(?).

2020 Description: "Start at the base of LE staying between LE & AWA following the right trending crack. Takes a range of bomber wire nuts, no cams required. Top out over loose rock. Down climb to anchors for AWA & lower off.

2014 Description: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/a-wee-bit-of-fun-on-the-black-wall-at-stathams/ There is a thin crack running between Penthouse/Left Edge and Aerobics with Alan that is an entertaining exercise in placing tiny gear and minor runouts. There doesn’t seem to be a write up on it, and is probably a solo from the 60s/70s or one of those lines that have periodically been done but not written up. Does anyone know its history? We climbed it for a laugh at the end of a session. Start up as for PH. Clipping the first bolt might be a good idea, if only to lessen the chance of unzipping. Head slightly right on to the crack and merrily fiddle about with micro nuts, RPs and small nuts and cams while perched on the numerous edges. Follow the crack all the way up until it peters out, then continue straight up the face and top out pretty much where LE goes. Belay off the small trees on top. Watch out for the dead ones. Easy climbing, somewhere about 12-14, with the little gear keeping the interest up. If it doesn’t already have a name, Smallminded. Comments on grade? A Separovic and R Wainright 2014

2013 Ascent: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/some-new-routes-for-perth-quarries/

Great warm up route, or beginner route. Bulge at midway may test some climbers.

Really good beginner route.

Straight up to 3rd bolt. Head left to gain the 4th, then a balancy traverse right to the large angled handhold and the top.

The second bolt requires a 90 degree bolt plate (a 45 will slip right off when you climb above it).

This is a Girdle! Start as Bumble Sea heading left upwards direction to DDB of Black Slab, then traverse to finish first pitch on Left Edge. Second pitch topout to the abseil boulders

FFA: Raymond Hill, Rike Mclernon & David Ladkin, 18 May 2020

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